Falkands, South Georgia, Antarctica
Fishing vessel followed by tens of thousands of birds.
26, 27 January 2018
We are on our way, about 110 passengers and 80 crew, around 36 hours of sailing before we arrive in the West Falklands. The seas aren't too bad although rushing up and down stairs and unpacking with my head down is not a good start.
There are briefings about embarking and disembarking from the zodiacs and a presentation on the Falklands War given from the Argentine and British points of view during our day at sea.
Black-browed albatross and giant petrels follow the ship but in the distance we see a fishing vessel with thousands of birds following it.
We are on our way, about 110 passengers and 80 crew, around 36 hours of sailing before we arrive in the West Falklands. The seas aren't too bad although rushing up and down stairs and unpacking with my head down is not a good start.
There are briefings about embarking and disembarking from the zodiacs and a presentation on the Falklands War given from the Argentine and British points of view during our day at sea.
Black-browed albatross and giant petrels follow the ship but in the distance we see a fishing vessel with thousands of birds following it.
Black-browed albatross and giant petrel following our ship.
Photo by Thomas Kokta.
Falkland Islands
West Point Island landing site. The red jackets show the path over the hill to the rookery.
Black-browed albatross chick patiently waiting for food.
28 January
It is a sunny morning as we pull into West Point Island in the West Falklands. We board the zodiac for a short trip to the shore. Our first taste of the wildlife to come as we walk across the island to a black-browed albatross and rockhopper penguin rookery in amongst the tussock grass.
Very cute albatross and penguin chicks everywhere and fabulous weather with no wind. Several thousand rockhopper penguins nest here amongst 14,000 albatrosses. An adult albatross standing 800mm high walked along the path next to me. Beautiful.
The gentoo chicks wander around the grass tussocks whereas the albatross chicks are more obedient and stay on the nest waiting patiently for their parents to return.
Rockhopper penguin
On our return from the rookery a delightful morning tea with a huge spread of sweet treats had been prepared for us at the Napier family home on West Point Island. Even more food awaited back on the ship as we sailed to Saunders Island for our next wildlife encounter.
A group of gentoo chicks looking forlorn waiting for more food. They cannot swim with these fluffy coats.
On Saunders Island we observed a large gentoo colony with a few groups of Magellanic penguins amongst them. The chicks are hungry and when an adult gentoo returns to feed its young, one or two fluffy freeloading chicks start chasing the adult who scarpers off until the freeloaders tire and hopefully the real offspring can be fed. It's comical behaviour to watch.
Across the island on a rocky cliff face was a large rockhopper rookery. It was interesting to watch the persistent little penguins landing on the rocks and getting washed off only to be smashed onto the rocks and washed off again. After several attempts they scramble up in a group, hop along to have a quick freshwater shower under a stream flowing down, quickly clean off their coats and hop up and along the rocks 50 - 100 metres to their nests. These little penguins are only about 50 cm high. The gentoos are taller at 75 cm.
Some very attractive ducks and geese were also near the rocks including a family of kelp geese with the male, female and young all looking very different. A Falkland steamer duck when swimming fast, flaps its wings into the water and uses its feet, creating an effect like a paddle steamer. It has very bubbly looking plumage and can't fly.
Across the island on a rocky cliff face was a large rockhopper rookery. It was interesting to watch the persistent little penguins landing on the rocks and getting washed off only to be smashed onto the rocks and washed off again. After several attempts they scramble up in a group, hop along to have a quick freshwater shower under a stream flowing down, quickly clean off their coats and hop up and along the rocks 50 - 100 metres to their nests. These little penguins are only about 50 cm high. The gentoos are taller at 75 cm.
Some very attractive ducks and geese were also near the rocks including a family of kelp geese with the male, female and young all looking very different. A Falkland steamer duck when swimming fast, flaps its wings into the water and uses its feet, creating an effect like a paddle steamer. It has very bubbly looking plumage and can't fly.
The Gentoo dash.
Oh what a feeling.
Last zodiac already gone!
29 - 31 January Stanley
Yesterday had been brilliant and we could have stayed days to watch the albatross and penguins but we sailed on to Stanley, the main town in the Falklands.
We chose to walk into town along the harbour passing the upland geese, steamer ducks and ruddy headed geese in the inclement weather.
A large cruise ship was anchored in the outer harbour making the town rather busy around the pier. There were plenty of tourist shops, a couple of cafes and an interesting museum with galleries covering social, maritime and natural history, the 1982 war and Antarctic heritage.
Back on board in the afternoon we learnt that severe weather was coming - winds in excess of 80 knots and big swells. So we stayed in the safety of the harbour for a further 48 hours waiting for the bad weather to pass, losing 2 full days. Unfortunate but that is life in these latitudes and even in the harbour 79 knot winds were recorded on the ship.
Yesterday had been brilliant and we could have stayed days to watch the albatross and penguins but we sailed on to Stanley, the main town in the Falklands.
We chose to walk into town along the harbour passing the upland geese, steamer ducks and ruddy headed geese in the inclement weather.
A large cruise ship was anchored in the outer harbour making the town rather busy around the pier. There were plenty of tourist shops, a couple of cafes and an interesting museum with galleries covering social, maritime and natural history, the 1982 war and Antarctic heritage.
Back on board in the afternoon we learnt that severe weather was coming - winds in excess of 80 knots and big swells. So we stayed in the safety of the harbour for a further 48 hours waiting for the bad weather to pass, losing 2 full days. Unfortunate but that is life in these latitudes and even in the harbour 79 knot winds were recorded on the ship.
Cheryl on Bertha's beach.
We passed the guano covered shag rocks north of South Georgia in the evening.
Photo by Thomas Kokta
An excursion to Bertha's Beach was organised for us on the first day of our delay. The winds were very strong and excellent for some kitesurfing diehards possibly from the nearby military base. A few geese, ducks and penguins around the rocks and a lone moulting king penguin ventured up near our bus.
1, 2 February At Sea
Sailing for 2 days in 3-5 metre swells although not huge were bad enough to make us feel a bit uneasy at times. But there were lectures about photography, geology, birds and mammals of South Georgia and the last part of the movie, Chasing Shackleton, which featured one of our excellent guides, Seb. On the last day at sea before South Georgia, a biosecurity briefing was followed by a thorough inspection for seeds, dirt or other matter on the outer clothing and bags we would wear or carry ashore.
Water temperatures were taken while at sea so we could determine when we crossed the Antarctic Convergence - where the cold Antarctic waters sink below the warmer subantarctic waters creating a zone very high in Antarctic krill. The water temperature dropped from 5C to 2C prior to Shag Rocks as we passed the convergence.
1, 2 February At Sea
Sailing for 2 days in 3-5 metre swells although not huge were bad enough to make us feel a bit uneasy at times. But there were lectures about photography, geology, birds and mammals of South Georgia and the last part of the movie, Chasing Shackleton, which featured one of our excellent guides, Seb. On the last day at sea before South Georgia, a biosecurity briefing was followed by a thorough inspection for seeds, dirt or other matter on the outer clothing and bags we would wear or carry ashore.
Water temperatures were taken while at sea so we could determine when we crossed the Antarctic Convergence - where the cold Antarctic waters sink below the warmer subantarctic waters creating a zone very high in Antarctic krill. The water temperature dropped from 5C to 2C prior to Shag Rocks as we passed the convergence.
South Georgia
3 February Fortuna Bay, Grytviken
Fine weather as we sailed along the glacier punctuated, rugged coastline. Our first landing was to be at Fortuna Bay. What a great start as we disembarked from the zodiacs to Antarctic fur seal pups charging us. No fear, they barely come up to our knees. Stand your ground and they slow down as they approach, drop their heads and look around before sidling off and looking for someone else to bluff.
We passed seals and penguins in the tussock grass before crossing a small glacier fed stream to find a huge colony of king penguins spread across the plain. Incredible.
Fine weather as we sailed along the glacier punctuated, rugged coastline. Our first landing was to be at Fortuna Bay. What a great start as we disembarked from the zodiacs to Antarctic fur seal pups charging us. No fear, they barely come up to our knees. Stand your ground and they slow down as they approach, drop their heads and look around before sidling off and looking for someone else to bluff.
We passed seals and penguins in the tussock grass before crossing a small glacier fed stream to find a huge colony of king penguins spread across the plain. Incredible.
In the afternoon we sailed down to Grytviken the only human habitation on the island and also the resting place of Earnest Shackleton. We raised a toast as we visited the great man's grave.
Founded in 1904 by Carl Larsen, Grytviken was the first whaling station in South Georgia and operated for 60 years. Of interest was the well maintained small church and the very informative museum documenting the whaling history, maritime and natural history of the island as well as that of explorers and the military presence which lasted until 2001.
The Island has recently eradicated the rat which has enabled a native bird, the pipit to repopulate. The eradication was achieved as a matter of urgency with the glaciers retreating and allowing the rat a greater range of the island. However it is an ongoing battle along with weed control and there are strict biosecurity measures taken before each landing on the island.
Founded in 1904 by Carl Larsen, Grytviken was the first whaling station in South Georgia and operated for 60 years. Of interest was the well maintained small church and the very informative museum documenting the whaling history, maritime and natural history of the island as well as that of explorers and the military presence which lasted until 2001.
The Island has recently eradicated the rat which has enabled a native bird, the pipit to repopulate. The eradication was achieved as a matter of urgency with the glaciers retreating and allowing the rat a greater range of the island. However it is an ongoing battle along with weed control and there are strict biosecurity measures taken before each landing on the island.
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4 February Gold Harbour
Two young elephant seals practised fighting as we landed in the early morning at Gold Harbour. We walked along the beach and saw a lot more resting elephant seals, porpoising king penguins and seals in the water. It was all happening. Gold Harbour has more than 25,000 breeding pairs of King penguins which spill from the colony into the tussock grass and onto the beach with the rugged mountains and glacier making an impressive backdrop. 
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Practising for later
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Gold Harbour
The steep slippery slope to view the macaroni penguin rookery from above.
Cooper Bay
After returning for a late breakfast on the ship we ventured on to steep-sided, rocky Cooper Bay with its green tussock grass hiding resting elephant seals and the Macaroni penguins in the rockier parts. Most other macaroni nesting sites are on the rugged inaccessible west coast of South Georgia. We climbed a steep, muddy slope to get closer to the nesting Macaroni penguins but they were just as visible and close when we viewed them later from the zodiac. Some chinstrap penguins were also about. With softly calling light-mantled sooty albatross in pairs above us, Hannah guided the zodiac in between steep sided cliffs with huge mounds of kelp attached to the lower rocks welling up as the swell came through like a scene from a pirate movie. Excitement with a couple of the other zodiacs as a curious large female leopard seal took a bite at the zodiacs. The leopard seal was feeding where the currents were bringing in nutrients as were Wilsons storm petrels and prions. Great excursion.
After returning for a late breakfast on the ship we ventured on to steep-sided, rocky Cooper Bay with its green tussock grass hiding resting elephant seals and the Macaroni penguins in the rockier parts. Most other macaroni nesting sites are on the rugged inaccessible west coast of South Georgia. We climbed a steep, muddy slope to get closer to the nesting Macaroni penguins but they were just as visible and close when we viewed them later from the zodiac. Some chinstrap penguins were also about. With softly calling light-mantled sooty albatross in pairs above us, Hannah guided the zodiac in between steep sided cliffs with huge mounds of kelp attached to the lower rocks welling up as the swell came through like a scene from a pirate movie. Excitement with a couple of the other zodiacs as a curious large female leopard seal took a bite at the zodiacs. The leopard seal was feeding where the currents were bringing in nutrients as were Wilsons storm petrels and prions. Great excursion.
Macaroni penguins at Cooper Bay.
Beautiful photo by Thomas Kokta.
Drygalski Glacier
In the late afternoon, we sailed down to the south of the island and turned in towards the Drygalski Glacier. Prions and particularly storm petrels by the thousands were at the face of the melting glacier where plankton is forced up by the cold melting ice. Snow petrels and cape petrels were also flying about.
In the late afternoon, we sailed down to the south of the island and turned in towards the Drygalski Glacier. Prions and particularly storm petrels by the thousands were at the face of the melting glacier where plankton is forced up by the cold melting ice. Snow petrels and cape petrels were also flying about.
5 February Prion Island
Prion Island just after daybreak and we were the first group to disembark around 5.30am. Great light for our zodiac ride across to the island. We were welcomed by penguins and charged by seals as we disembarked and climbed the boardwalk up to see the nesting wandering albatross – biggest flying bird that only comes to land to nest once per year or less. Their wingspan is an incredible 3.5m or more. We saw a couple of chicks and 4 adults on nests. Nesting brown skuas and seals in the grass tussocks and even on the boardwalk made it tricky navigating the narrow boardwalk.
Prion Island just after daybreak and we were the first group to disembark around 5.30am. Great light for our zodiac ride across to the island. We were welcomed by penguins and charged by seals as we disembarked and climbed the boardwalk up to see the nesting wandering albatross – biggest flying bird that only comes to land to nest once per year or less. Their wingspan is an incredible 3.5m or more. We saw a couple of chicks and 4 adults on nests. Nesting brown skuas and seals in the grass tussocks and even on the boardwalk made it tricky navigating the narrow boardwalk.
When we returned to the zodiac it was so nice to see it all happening – so alive with wildlife - a pipit picking on a carcass on the shoreline, kelp gulls flying around, penguins and seals in the water along with a leopard seal. Went for a short zodiac cruise via the huge kelp. A heavy fog rolled through and the ship disappeared even though it was only a few hundred metres away.
Salisbury Plain
Last excursion on South Georgia.
Incredible sight of more than 60,000 breeding pairs of king penguins spread across a slightly raised gravel area about 200m from the surf and spreading back a few hundred metres and up a gravel slope, void of vegetation where they stood. Incredible sight. We saw it from the beach and then skirted around the colony to see it from the base of the slope. The plains area didn’t have as many penguins as it is often too wet and muddy. Surreal sight of seals chasing eachother across the plains ……. not a lion in sight!
We watched as a brown skua started to eat and peck at a penguin chick it had snatched from the mother before flying a couple of metres with it to the outside of the pack. It was a sickening sight to witness as the skuas fought over the remains. The peripheral penguins are much more at risk of this brown skua behaviour. As we left we saw a skua standing at the edge of the group being warned off by a nesting penguin leaning forward, beak thrust out in a warning stare-off. Pale-faced sheathbills scavenged for remains amongst the penguins.
Last excursion on South Georgia.
Incredible sight of more than 60,000 breeding pairs of king penguins spread across a slightly raised gravel area about 200m from the surf and spreading back a few hundred metres and up a gravel slope, void of vegetation where they stood. Incredible sight. We saw it from the beach and then skirted around the colony to see it from the base of the slope. The plains area didn’t have as many penguins as it is often too wet and muddy. Surreal sight of seals chasing eachother across the plains ……. not a lion in sight!
We watched as a brown skua started to eat and peck at a penguin chick it had snatched from the mother before flying a couple of metres with it to the outside of the pack. It was a sickening sight to witness as the skuas fought over the remains. The peripheral penguins are much more at risk of this brown skua behaviour. As we left we saw a skua standing at the edge of the group being warned off by a nesting penguin leaning forward, beak thrust out in a warning stare-off. Pale-faced sheathbills scavenged for remains amongst the penguins.
Sick bags on the railings.
6, 7, 8 February Sailing to the Antarctic
We saw our first ice berg at 8.30 am the day after leaving South Georgia.
The seas were becoming rougher and Guy was tipped back almost out of his chair but managed to stop himself and catch his breakfast in his lap. Cutlery was sliding freely onto the floor. Plates were smashed at lunch time. The 5-7m swells were no fun.
In the afternoon of Feb 8th we passed Elephant Island. In 1921 Shackleton and his crew were the first to inhabited the island following the loss of their ship, the Endurance in the pack ice of the Weddell Sea.
We did not go ashore or even do a zodiac cruise as the seas were too rough. We sailed on.
We saw our first ice berg at 8.30 am the day after leaving South Georgia.
The seas were becoming rougher and Guy was tipped back almost out of his chair but managed to stop himself and catch his breakfast in his lap. Cutlery was sliding freely onto the floor. Plates were smashed at lunch time. The 5-7m swells were no fun.
In the afternoon of Feb 8th we passed Elephant Island. In 1921 Shackleton and his crew were the first to inhabited the island following the loss of their ship, the Endurance in the pack ice of the Weddell Sea.
We did not go ashore or even do a zodiac cruise as the seas were too rough. We sailed on.
9 February Spert Island
Up early to see the wonderful sunrise and then a zodiac cruise to Spert Island which lies off the western extremity of Trinity Island. It has a number of cliffs, sea stacks and hidden coves. We passed between several high stacks with water funnelling through causing quite a swell. Eventually it opened into a bay shared with a glacier. With the sea becoming rougher and submerged rock stacks not as easily seen we decided to retreat. Chinstrap penguins, Antarctic seals and Weddell seals basked on the rocks around the island while an impressive multi-storey, cathedral shaped ice berg floated in the bay. The Antarctic at last.
Up early to see the wonderful sunrise and then a zodiac cruise to Spert Island which lies off the western extremity of Trinity Island. It has a number of cliffs, sea stacks and hidden coves. We passed between several high stacks with water funnelling through causing quite a swell. Eventually it opened into a bay shared with a glacier. With the sea becoming rougher and submerged rock stacks not as easily seen we decided to retreat. Chinstrap penguins, Antarctic seals and Weddell seals basked on the rocks around the island while an impressive multi-storey, cathedral shaped ice berg floated in the bay. The Antarctic at last.
While sailing to Hydrurga Rocks (named after the leopard seal – hydrurga leptonyx), we stopped to watch at least 6 killer whales feeding in a slick probably from a kill. One lurched out of the water with a huge piece of blubber in its mouth as others, including a calf were also feeding. As orcas form a matriarchal group the large males we saw were probably sons of the mother. Albatrosses, giant petrels and storm petrels were also enjoying the spoils from the kill feeding on minute bits of blubber.
Weddell seal
Hydrurga Rocks
Next stop for a wet landing (stepping into water from the zodiac) was Hydrurga Rocks in the northern part of the Gerlache Strait. Chinstrap penguins were on a krill paste guano covered rock pile near where we landed. Further on a few Weddell seals had dragged themselves up onto the snow-covered beaches. Blue-eyed shags were on the higher parts of the rocks.
The highlights kept on coming as we chanced onto several humpback whale groups feeding. Many whale tail sightings, and bubble blowing in a circle to gather the krill into a central area through which a whale swims with its huge mouth open. Wow. We watched in awe for 30 minutes or more before we had to move on. Even then whales were still close to the ship and close to our path to Cierva Cove.
Next stop for a wet landing (stepping into water from the zodiac) was Hydrurga Rocks in the northern part of the Gerlache Strait. Chinstrap penguins were on a krill paste guano covered rock pile near where we landed. Further on a few Weddell seals had dragged themselves up onto the snow-covered beaches. Blue-eyed shags were on the higher parts of the rocks.
The highlights kept on coming as we chanced onto several humpback whale groups feeding. Many whale tail sightings, and bubble blowing in a circle to gather the krill into a central area through which a whale swims with its huge mouth open. Wow. We watched in awe for 30 minutes or more before we had to move on. Even then whales were still close to the ship and close to our path to Cierva Cove.
Cierva Cove
The Argentine Base Primavera overlooks the cove and is occasionally staffed by scientists. It is surrounded by a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to its rich botany and wildlife. If a base is to close it has to leave nothing behind which is a very expensive operation, so many countries just maintain the bases or call them historical in which case they can be left there.
It was magical to hear the ice crackling around us in the brilliant sunshine during the zodiac ride amongst the growlers and ice bergs in Cierva Cove. Guy picked up a big chunk of black ice, actually clear 1000 year + aged ice. Hannah found a couple of Weddell seals enjoying the sunshine on their ice floes.
Long way back to the ship as it needs to move to avoid ice bergs but a special treat of chocolate madness had been organised for dessert after the long day.
The Argentine Base Primavera overlooks the cove and is occasionally staffed by scientists. It is surrounded by a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to its rich botany and wildlife. If a base is to close it has to leave nothing behind which is a very expensive operation, so many countries just maintain the bases or call them historical in which case they can be left there.
It was magical to hear the ice crackling around us in the brilliant sunshine during the zodiac ride amongst the growlers and ice bergs in Cierva Cove. Guy picked up a big chunk of black ice, actually clear 1000 year + aged ice. Hannah found a couple of Weddell seals enjoying the sunshine on their ice floes.
Long way back to the ship as it needs to move to avoid ice bergs but a special treat of chocolate madness had been organised for dessert after the long day.
Saturday 10 February
A beautiful sunrise and ice all around.
A beautiful sunrise and ice all around.
After the 6am breakfast, we landed on Danco Island which has a large Gentoo population (16,000 breeding pairs). The surrounding area is highlighted by heavily crevassed glaciers. We walked most of the way to the top of the island. The view over the penguin colony and the surrounding area was good although the low cloud base spoilt it. Great watching the penguins as usual. A zodiac excursion around the island in deteriorating conditions followed.
Excursion across to the Chilean post, Gonzalez Videls Base at Waterboat Point. The post is only maintained during the summer months by a few soldiers and maybe a scientist or two. This was to be our only continental landing on the Antarctic. Once again there were many Gentoo penguins. The base had a small museum and gift shop and tea room.
A couple of yachts harboured nearby. Our ship was moving further away as the ice was flowing towards it and there is not enough room to turn. While we were on the base a leopard seal took one of the Gentoo penguins and was quite violent with it. They are known to play with their barely alive victims.
A couple of yachts harboured nearby. Our ship was moving further away as the ice was flowing towards it and there is not enough room to turn. While we were on the base a leopard seal took one of the Gentoo penguins and was quite violent with it. They are known to play with their barely alive victims.
Back on board but as the wind was increasing there were to be no further landings. Just a quick cruise past the Argentine base and Paradise Harbour and then out towards the ocean and Drake Passage. A spectacular cold front was rolling in.
 Happy waiters dancing with flambe meringue balanced on their heads.
11, 12 February
The Drake Passage was over in 2 days. Enough of the 'furious fifties' seas as we entered the Beagle Channel and took on the pilot around 7pm. Meanwhile the staff had a feast in store for us in the dining room. |
Pilot shimmying up the rope onto our ship.
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13 February
We disemarked after breakfast at 8 am farewelling a fabulous crew and excellent expedition team, each one a leader in their chosen fields. |
The Queen Victoria was moored alongside.
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Wow, what a place, what an experience.