Peru
Narrow streets on route to get to the ATM.
4 May 2019 Saturday
After three hours spent at the border crossing we finally drove into Peru. The crossing had taken longer than expected but we picked up an hour as Peru is an hour behind Chile.
We travelled north to Tacna looking for an ATM and fresh food. Tacna has a dubious reputation for smash and grab thefts so we were a little wary but the town centre was appealing with crowds of people and many stylish cafes and restaurants, unfortunately the narrow streets and crowds made parking impossible in the truck and then the police pulled us over for an inadvertant illegal turn. Our lack of Spanish had them shaking their heads so they left us free to navigate our way to an ATM. Cash in hand the cafes looked tempting but it was getting dark and time to find somewhere safe for the night. Thanks to iOverlander we found a cochera (overnight parking area) which offered a solid fence, toilet and cold shower. There wasn't much else.
After three hours spent at the border crossing we finally drove into Peru. The crossing had taken longer than expected but we picked up an hour as Peru is an hour behind Chile.
We travelled north to Tacna looking for an ATM and fresh food. Tacna has a dubious reputation for smash and grab thefts so we were a little wary but the town centre was appealing with crowds of people and many stylish cafes and restaurants, unfortunately the narrow streets and crowds made parking impossible in the truck and then the police pulled us over for an inadvertant illegal turn. Our lack of Spanish had them shaking their heads so they left us free to navigate our way to an ATM. Cash in hand the cafes looked tempting but it was getting dark and time to find somewhere safe for the night. Thanks to iOverlander we found a cochera (overnight parking area) which offered a solid fence, toilet and cold shower. There wasn't much else.
5 May
Markets first and then a short drive out of the valley before...
Markets first and then a short drive out of the valley before...
And waiting to take you home from the markets........ I'll take the one with the spoiler.
.... mmm that chicken parillada smells good. Surely it is lunchtime by now! Guy is feeling better.
Next day was all driving, inland first and then along the coast. We are still in the desert but the valleys we drive down into and then climb out of are green and comparatively lush from irrigation.
Campsites off the highway are hard to find but we settle for dinner in a roadside cafe and park around the side with free wifi.
Campsites off the highway are hard to find but we settle for dinner in a roadside cafe and park around the side with free wifi.
Climbing past dry settlements and mines on the way to Arequipa.
Camping vehicles parked along a solid fence next to a main road. Clean toilet block with hot showers - luxury!
Looking over the Rio Chili to Misti Volcano.
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6 - 11 May Arequipa
The countryside remained dry and sandy even as we climbed to Arequipa and snow capped peaks came into view. Finally some greenery as we neared the outskirts of Arequipa. Camp was in the grounds of a hotel less than a kilometre from the historic town centre. The hotel caters to overlanders and we even had grass to camp on in the drive-through grounds. Arequipa is sometimes called the white city after the locally quarried sillar - white volcanic rock from which the white building blocks are made. Many buildings are made from the sillar. During the Colonial period, Arequipa became highly important for its economic prosperity and for its loyalty to the Spanish Crown. Once Peru gained its independence from Spain in 1821, Arequipa acquired greater political significance, and was even declared the capital city of Peru from 1835 to 1883. The historic center of Arequipa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its religious, colonial, and republican architectural styles blend European and native characteristics into a unique style called "Escuela Arequipeña". The buildings are well maintained and the area is clean and pleasant to walk around in. We had warm clear days and could easily see the snowcapped peaks and volcanoes to the north and east. |
The Central Square, the Plaza de Armas is bound on three of the four sides by colonnaded buildings with the cathedral being on the other side.
One of the highlights of Arequipa was the Santa Catalina Monastery founded in 1579. The monastery is about 2 hectares surrounded by high thick walls creating a tranquil setting in the centre of the city.
The monastery accepted only women from upper class Spanish families who each paid a dowry of the equivalent of about US$150,000 at their daughter's admission to the monastery. Although it was possible for poorer nuns to enter the convent without paying a dowry, it can be seen from the cells that most of the nuns were very wealthy. At its height, the monastery housed approximately 450 people (about a third of them nuns and the rest servants) in a cloistered community. In the 1960s, it was struck twice by earthquakes, severely damaging the structures, and forcing the nuns to build new accommodation next door. It was then restored although the upper level was not.
Today 21 sisters aged 25 to 100 years old and two 18 year old novices live in the community.
The monastery accepted only women from upper class Spanish families who each paid a dowry of the equivalent of about US$150,000 at their daughter's admission to the monastery. Although it was possible for poorer nuns to enter the convent without paying a dowry, it can be seen from the cells that most of the nuns were very wealthy. At its height, the monastery housed approximately 450 people (about a third of them nuns and the rest servants) in a cloistered community. In the 1960s, it was struck twice by earthquakes, severely damaging the structures, and forcing the nuns to build new accommodation next door. It was then restored although the upper level was not.
Today 21 sisters aged 25 to 100 years old and two 18 year old novices live in the community.
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The cold nutrient rich Humboldt Current runs along the coast from southern Chile and causes a seafog to devlop most days. During winter this fog is blown inland and sits over land for days at a time. We'd regularly seen roadsign warnings and as we descended to the coast we hit the dark grey fog, speed dropped down to 60kmh or less. We were still at least 20 kms inland and 3000ft high but the fog was moving inland quickly. We dropped out of the base at about 1000ft as we neared the coast. |
In we plunge, only metres after the sign warning of fogs in the area.
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12 - 14 May
A slow drive north on the Panamerican Highway in southern Peru is not a particularly interesting event. But the bright spot is that we were fortunate to met Lucy Barnard, an Australian adventurer walking the length of the world from Ushuaia, Argentina to Barrow, Alaska. We met Lucy and her dog, Wombat in Ocoña where she was resting and recovering. She is a delightful, warm-hearted person and you can find out more about her travels on:
https://tanglesandtail.com/
Chupa de Camarones
We did enjoy some nice seafood on the coast - Chupa de camarones with a refreshing Inka Cola, the yellow soft drink a bit like creaming soda.
The camarones we had were like a freshwater shrimp and that is a poached egg on top. There are very small lumps of cheese in it as well as rice. The overall flavour was excellent and it was very filling.
Any wonder the Atacama is chosen for movie sets featuring Mars.
Puerto Inka was an overnight stop on our drive north; these Inca ruins sit around a small picturesque and sheltered bay. We clambered over the rocks up the cliffs to where many Incan ruins lay partly uncovered, this provided an excellent vantage point over the bay, out to sea and to the ruins circling the bay.
We were concerened that the high altitude may cause a recurrence of health issues for Guy so decided to bypass Bolivia. This brought us into Peru sooner than planned and meant we couldn't access the best of the Andes here either. Unfortunately, while the desert is spectaclar in parts the PanAm highway is littered with rubbish for the entire length of the coast and the resorts and towns are run-down and largely deserted in the off season. Easy to feel like you're in some dystopian movie set.
We decide to use the time to go to Iquitos in the Peruvian Amazon for a sample of the real Amazon. Iquitos is accessible only by air or river and so unreachable in the truck. This should be the perfect antidote for the weeks we've spent in the grim desert of Chile and Peru.
Meanwhile, in Lima, we will have to arrange a suspension of the 3 month Peru import permit so we have time to fly home and then back and exit Peru before the permit expires. Overstaying the permit could lead to confiscation of the truck when tried to leave Peru. Not a problem with Immigration as we will fly home mid June and receive a new 3 month visa with our expected return in August.
We decide to use the time to go to Iquitos in the Peruvian Amazon for a sample of the real Amazon. Iquitos is accessible only by air or river and so unreachable in the truck. This should be the perfect antidote for the weeks we've spent in the grim desert of Chile and Peru.
Meanwhile, in Lima, we will have to arrange a suspension of the 3 month Peru import permit so we have time to fly home and then back and exit Peru before the permit expires. Overstaying the permit could lead to confiscation of the truck when tried to leave Peru. Not a problem with Immigration as we will fly home mid June and receive a new 3 month visa with our expected return in August.
15 - 18 May
We enjoyed a relaxing time at the interesting campsite, Wasipunko, near Nazca. Olivia Sejuro is a watercolour artist passionate about promoting different plant species. Four of her works have been featured on Peruvian stamps.
Nazca not only has the Nazca geoglyphs but some other interesting remains, the puquios, an old system of subterranean aqueducts. Many of the puquios are still functioning and relied upon by the townspeople for fresh water in this arid desert. A series of canals was used to bring the water to the surface from underground aquifers and then channel it to the areas where it was needed. Any excess was stored in surface reservoirs. To help keep the water flowing, chimneys were excavated above the canals in the shape of corkscrewing funnels. These funnels admitted wind into the canals, and the difference in atmospheric pressure along the canal length forced the water through the system and eventually to the desired destination.
The spiral design of the puquios can be seen below. Fresh clean running water was available at the base of the spiral.
We enjoyed a relaxing time at the interesting campsite, Wasipunko, near Nazca. Olivia Sejuro is a watercolour artist passionate about promoting different plant species. Four of her works have been featured on Peruvian stamps.
Nazca not only has the Nazca geoglyphs but some other interesting remains, the puquios, an old system of subterranean aqueducts. Many of the puquios are still functioning and relied upon by the townspeople for fresh water in this arid desert. A series of canals was used to bring the water to the surface from underground aquifers and then channel it to the areas where it was needed. Any excess was stored in surface reservoirs. To help keep the water flowing, chimneys were excavated above the canals in the shape of corkscrewing funnels. These funnels admitted wind into the canals, and the difference in atmospheric pressure along the canal length forced the water through the system and eventually to the desired destination.
The spiral design of the puquios can be seen below. Fresh clean running water was available at the base of the spiral.
Hundreds of chicken farms in the desert on our drive to Ica and Paracas National Park.
19 - 22 May
We spent three nights camping in the Paracas National Park, a peninsular jutting into the Pacific about 200km south of Lima. The Paracas NP has many spectacular cliffs and bays that are accessible with the right vehicle and provide terrific scenic campsites but this is an arid zone, with intense local winds known as paracas that blow strongly from the afternoon into the night. There is no escaping the wind and blowing sand. Though the wind is cold the days are warm and dry. Fishermen cast their lines from incredible heights on the cliff tops beyond the rubble below and out to sea while others dive for octopus and shellfish, or fish with nets from boats. Peru pelicans, various gulls, sea lions, sea otters and beautiful Inca terns were visible as well as ships waiting out from the copper port.
We spent three nights camping in the Paracas National Park, a peninsular jutting into the Pacific about 200km south of Lima. The Paracas NP has many spectacular cliffs and bays that are accessible with the right vehicle and provide terrific scenic campsites but this is an arid zone, with intense local winds known as paracas that blow strongly from the afternoon into the night. There is no escaping the wind and blowing sand. Though the wind is cold the days are warm and dry. Fishermen cast their lines from incredible heights on the cliff tops beyond the rubble below and out to sea while others dive for octopus and shellfish, or fish with nets from boats. Peru pelicans, various gulls, sea lions, sea otters and beautiful Inca terns were visible as well as ships waiting out from the copper port.
23 - 27 May
Our last days of driving took us through Ica and Pisco before joining the chaos of the Lima traffic. The beaches are extensive but look a bit grim with the grey fogs, ever present trash, and run down properties. We spent a night camped in the Asia resort area and join a local fisherman in hauling his net from the surf.
Our last days of driving took us through Ica and Pisco before joining the chaos of the Lima traffic. The beaches are extensive but look a bit grim with the grey fogs, ever present trash, and run down properties. We spent a night camped in the Asia resort area and join a local fisherman in hauling his net from the surf.
Not all our camp sites are glamorous, some are rather spicey.
A few other overlanding vehicles are stored here also.
Vermillion flycatcher about to swoop on an insect at the bottom right of the photo.
28 - 31 May Lima
The drive through Lima on the highway was uneventful and we arrived at the Carlos 4x4 workshop mid afternoon. Carlos runs a workshop specialising in 4wds and overland vehicles; he had worked as a mechanic with a Dakar team for 4 seasons so we expect he knows his stuff. Carlos turned out to be a real gentleman, well organised and generous.
After cleaning out the truck and some simple maintenance we caught a taxi to the Sunat office to arrange the suspension of the import permit. Then an apartment in Miraflores for the next four days and a few arranged tours. Touring the city is much more relaxing when someone else has to navigate the congested and chaotic traffic.
The drive through Lima on the highway was uneventful and we arrived at the Carlos 4x4 workshop mid afternoon. Carlos runs a workshop specialising in 4wds and overland vehicles; he had worked as a mechanic with a Dakar team for 4 seasons so we expect he knows his stuff. Carlos turned out to be a real gentleman, well organised and generous.
After cleaning out the truck and some simple maintenance we caught a taxi to the Sunat office to arrange the suspension of the import permit. Then an apartment in Miraflores for the next four days and a few arranged tours. Touring the city is much more relaxing when someone else has to navigate the congested and chaotic traffic.
The amazing quipu
We spent several hours at the Larco Museum which tells the history of the various Peruvian tribes mostly through pottery and some metal objects, including gold. It is unique in that it has a 'visible storage' area where most of the pottery that would otherwise be stored away from public view is visible in aisles of huge glass cases. It is not labelled as well as in the museum but still very interesting to walk through.
In the museum I found the quipu particularly intresting. A quipu was an ancient accounting tool used from 2.500 BCE until the spanish colonization. Quipus were usually of cotton or alpaca fibre. The colors of the cords, the way the cords are connected, the relative placement of the cords, the spaces between the cords, the types of knots on the individual cords, and the relative placement of the knots all have significance.
In the museum I found the quipu particularly intresting. A quipu was an ancient accounting tool used from 2.500 BCE until the spanish colonization. Quipus were usually of cotton or alpaca fibre. The colors of the cords, the way the cords are connected, the relative placement of the cords, the spaces between the cords, the types of knots on the individual cords, and the relative placement of the knots all have significance.
Pachacamac about 40 kms south east of Lima was first settled around 200CE. Named after the "Earth Maker" creator god Pacha Kamaq the site flourished for about 1,300 years until the Spanish invaded. It covers about 600 hectares of land.
In the 1890s archaeologists first began exploring Pachacamac. The main building we saw was the Temple of the Sun which is 30,000m² in the shape of a trapezoid built on a rocky hilltop overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It has the common step pyramid architecture which forms terraces around the structure. This temple has been dated to the time of Inca control over Pachacamac.
Unfortunately archaeologists are limited in their knowledge of this site because the Temple of the Sun and many other pyramids at Pachacamac have been irreversibly damaged by looting and the El Niño weather phenomenon. A few years ago the buildings were closed off to public entry due to the amount of graffiti.
In the 1890s archaeologists first began exploring Pachacamac. The main building we saw was the Temple of the Sun which is 30,000m² in the shape of a trapezoid built on a rocky hilltop overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It has the common step pyramid architecture which forms terraces around the structure. This temple has been dated to the time of Inca control over Pachacamac.
Unfortunately archaeologists are limited in their knowledge of this site because the Temple of the Sun and many other pyramids at Pachacamac have been irreversibly damaged by looting and the El Niño weather phenomenon. A few years ago the buildings were closed off to public entry due to the amount of graffiti.
Below are some highlights from a city walking tour and the colonial Casa de Aliaga founded in 1535, the same year as Lima. Ever since then the Aliaga family and their descendants have lived in the house.
1 - 9 June Iquitos and Tapiche Lodge
It was a 90 minute flight to Iquitos in the Amazonian north east of Peru. We had good views of the meandering streams, oxbow lakes and billabongs.
It was a 90 minute flight to Iquitos in the Amazonian north east of Peru. We had good views of the meandering streams, oxbow lakes and billabongs.
Flying over the upper reaches of the Amazon basin in Peru.
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Iquitos is the largest city in the Peruvian Amazon. The area was long inhabited by indigenous people before the arrival of the Spanish Jesuits in the mid 18th century and then thousands of Europeans during the rubber boom, 1880 - 1914. The region now exports timber, fish, oil, minerals and crops.
The unpromising facade of the Indigenous Cultures of the Amazon Museum. Mains power dropped out during our first visit but we are very pleased we gave it another chance. The museum contains the culture of the main indigenous groups in the Amazonas region of Peru. Head dresses, belts, tools and weapons are displayed along with fascinating information of their customs.
Some of these indigenous groups have chosen to remain out of contact, often due to the terrible outcomes from past encounters. Common 'western" diseases still kill many in the tribes or even worse, they have been the victims of violence and murder by poachers and loggers. As a result the tribespeople often attack visitors attempting contact, and they will kill trepsassing illegal loggers.
Our 400km adventure into the upper reaches of the Amazon started at 6am with a 2 hour bus ride to Nauta where we transferred to a local long boat for a 4 hour ride up the Ucayali River to Requena. An hour break for lunch and then a further 4 hours in the Tapiche Lodge speed boat with a couple of stops to see a sloth, monkeys and birds seen by our keen eyed driver, Jóse. We arrived in the rain shortly after 5pm, pretty tired but looking forward to the next few days.
Our accommodation was basic but comfortable consisting of a timber hut with a bed upstairs and bathroom downstairs. Power derived from the sun was available for a couple of hours during the evening.
There had been some heavy rains in the preceding days but fortunately for us it cleared on our first night there.
Below are some of the room mates.
There had been some heavy rains in the preceding days but fortunately for us it cleared on our first night there.
Below are some of the room mates.
The pink toe tarantula. Yes really!
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The days at Tapiche Lodge started with a departure at dawn. The rain had cleared although it was still overcast. We motored in a long boat upstream to a creek, obvious from its black mineral rich mixing with the brown of the Tapiche River. Once in the creek the motor was turned off and José paddled with some machete work along the way as everyone watched and listened for the animals and birds. Splashing in the creek and different birds could be heard but not yet seen. Eventually we saw white fronted capuchin monkeys, pygmy marmosets, a tiger heron, two little guinea pig type animals in a tree hole together before returning to the lodge for a late lunch.
The next foray started at 3pm. Downstream this time to a creek on the other side which was more open. Some of the creatures we saw here - the masked crimson tanager, numb bird with the orange beak, crimson crested woodpecker, hoatzin, tiny bats on a tree trunk, blue morpho butterflies, horned screamers, black collared hawk, a channel billed toucan, the long slender tayra (an animal from the weasel family) and a tamarin monkey.
Jana, our guide, explained that last week they had not been able to go up this creek but recent rainfall had allowed it again. Another week or so and it will be a walking track. The lakes at the ends of the creeks do not dry up. Water plants get pushed up the creek in rain and down after it.
The next foray started at 3pm. Downstream this time to a creek on the other side which was more open. Some of the creatures we saw here - the masked crimson tanager, numb bird with the orange beak, crimson crested woodpecker, hoatzin, tiny bats on a tree trunk, blue morpho butterflies, horned screamers, black collared hawk, a channel billed toucan, the long slender tayra (an animal from the weasel family) and a tamarin monkey.
Jana, our guide, explained that last week they had not been able to go up this creek but recent rainfall had allowed it again. Another week or so and it will be a walking track. The lakes at the ends of the creeks do not dry up. Water plants get pushed up the creek in rain and down after it.
Pink river dolphin
Today we prepared for a hike through the jungle.
Although a bit wet and muddy it was reasonably easy walking through the open jungle. A few mozzies and march flies. Beware of spikes, ants, lift your feet to lessen tripping over vines, walk heel first to minimize noise and be quiet. Got it. Not a lot of animal and bird life can be spotted in forest as the birds and animals hide well, move silently and six people were pretty noisy despite our best efforts.
José found evidence of tapirs and a puma (footprints) and heard a few others although little to see but enjoyable all the same. We did see centipedes, interesting white fungus, penicillin fungus, crab, spiders, green and rufous kingfisher with a fish, snails and empty shells, parrots, blue and yellow macaws, scarlet macaws and caped heron.
A boat had been left for us and we returned for lunch.
After lunch and a break we left in the boat going upstream for a jaunt to see what we could in another creek. Its entrance was jam packed with fallen trees from all the heavy rain 3 days ago. José tried to find a way through but couldn’t and so we motored further upstream to the edge of the Tapiche reserve. This area where two waterways meet is nutrient rich and is where the pink dolphins and the more usual looking grey river dolphins feed. We were lucky and saw plenty of both feeding.
Although a bit wet and muddy it was reasonably easy walking through the open jungle. A few mozzies and march flies. Beware of spikes, ants, lift your feet to lessen tripping over vines, walk heel first to minimize noise and be quiet. Got it. Not a lot of animal and bird life can be spotted in forest as the birds and animals hide well, move silently and six people were pretty noisy despite our best efforts.
José found evidence of tapirs and a puma (footprints) and heard a few others although little to see but enjoyable all the same. We did see centipedes, interesting white fungus, penicillin fungus, crab, spiders, green and rufous kingfisher with a fish, snails and empty shells, parrots, blue and yellow macaws, scarlet macaws and caped heron.
A boat had been left for us and we returned for lunch.
After lunch and a break we left in the boat going upstream for a jaunt to see what we could in another creek. Its entrance was jam packed with fallen trees from all the heavy rain 3 days ago. José tried to find a way through but couldn’t and so we motored further upstream to the edge of the Tapiche reserve. This area where two waterways meet is nutrient rich and is where the pink dolphins and the more usual looking grey river dolphins feed. We were lucky and saw plenty of both feeding.
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Heavy rains for a couple of days before our arrival caused quite a few trees to fall into the river. It blocked our access to one of the streams until Tapiche staff spent several hours clearing it as we walked around and the boat was carried across. While waiting on the bank Jana explained how the ants from the papery nest could be rubbed between our hands and be used as a mossie repellent. So we followed her example. Incredibly it worked for the next five hours in the boat.
After motoring and paddling in the narrow stream thick with water plants and overhanging trees we entered a huge open lake. Right at the end of it before water plants took over we came to the large agarmi heron nesting site, the heronry. As we walked on the bank behind the bushes there were only sketchy sightings of adult agarmis but glimpses of their rich blue colour and patterning was stunning. Many juveniles were practising their flying nearby - fly or be eaten by waiting caiman. Further up the stream we sat entranced watching the cute squirrel monkeys watching us. We also saw great black hawks, a water snake, capped heron, macaws and toucans. On our return we passed Murillo ferrying planks to repair the tower that had been damaged in the earthquake just over a week ago. After a late lunch we motored and drifted downstream, spotting birds and monkeys along the Tapiche River. Lucky to see a greater yellow headed vulture. In the evening Morilla pointed out tree frogs, a smokey jungle frog and a spiny rat which ran by. Unfortunately it took just as long to return to Iquitos in fine weather as it had taken us to get to Tapiche in the rain 4 days earlier. We did see the rare bare faced macaw. 
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Here are some photos taken from drone footage of the Tapiche Reserve. We are in a boat in the foreground of the second photo.
10, 11 June
A couple of days in Lima before the long haul home via Buenos Aires and Auckland. We intend to return to Lima in early August to continue our travels in South America.
A couple of days in Lima before the long haul home via Buenos Aires and Auckland. We intend to return to Lima in early August to continue our travels in South America.
Taking off at Sydney
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24 July Return to Lima
We returned to South America earlier than intended as we needed more time to travel northern Brazil through to Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana and return before the wet season started in southern Brazil. There has also been confusion with our temporary import suspension with Peru Customs (SUNAT) Our flight via Sydney and Santiago to Lima was with Latam/Qantas this time. A pleasant change. More luggage than usual also, 120kg of truck parts, including new springs and shock absorbers which arrived in Lima with us. |
Santiago, Chile
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25, 26 July
Finally the TIP suspension was approved 10mins before SUNAT closed for the Independence Day long weekend; this credited us for the days in storage. This was not without many obstacles and wouldn’t have happened without the assistance of Sr Parra at the Los Condores Pousada translating and emailing for us.
Back at the posada we learnt about the Sapo (frog) game. Legend has it that in Lake Titcaca, the sacred lake of the Incas, there were frogs (sapos) with magical powers. The Inca king would try to catch their attention by throwing gold pieces into the water. If a sapo caught one of these pieces in its mouth, it would turn into gold and grant the wish of the person who threw the gold piece.
So the aim of the game is to to throw a smal heavy token into the mouth of the sapo. Very difficult! Other holes in the top of the board give varying amounts of points.
Finally the TIP suspension was approved 10mins before SUNAT closed for the Independence Day long weekend; this credited us for the days in storage. This was not without many obstacles and wouldn’t have happened without the assistance of Sr Parra at the Los Condores Pousada translating and emailing for us.
Back at the posada we learnt about the Sapo (frog) game. Legend has it that in Lake Titcaca, the sacred lake of the Incas, there were frogs (sapos) with magical powers. The Inca king would try to catch their attention by throwing gold pieces into the water. If a sapo caught one of these pieces in its mouth, it would turn into gold and grant the wish of the person who threw the gold piece.
So the aim of the game is to to throw a smal heavy token into the mouth of the sapo. Very difficult! Other holes in the top of the board give varying amounts of points.
30 July
With the TIP suspension finally approved, we immediately lodged a cancellation request so we could take the truck out of 'storage' and start our travels. This process normally takes only a couple of days.
During our prolonged stay Chacalacayo we had the new springs and shock absorbers fitted and lots other minor work completed.
With the TIP suspension finally approved, we immediately lodged a cancellation request so we could take the truck out of 'storage' and start our travels. This process normally takes only a couple of days.
During our prolonged stay Chacalacayo we had the new springs and shock absorbers fitted and lots other minor work completed.
Stored trucks await the return of their owners.
After almost a week in the Condores posada we moved into the truck parked in the front of Carlos workshop. It is quite comfortable although the property fronts the main road out of Lima which is noisy and smoggy, fortunately there is a high security wall between us and the road. All the properties in Chacalacayo feature serious security, with walls up to 4m and high voltage electric fencing.
The weather in this area in winter is dry and warm although there is a cool sea breeze which pushed a fog from the ocean inland, up towards the Andes. This smog concentrates in the valley where Chacalacayo lies so the smog is thick most afernoons and there is a coating of grime over everything. It must be terrible for the locals health longer term.
The weather in this area in winter is dry and warm although there is a cool sea breeze which pushed a fog from the ocean inland, up towards the Andes. This smog concentrates in the valley where Chacalacayo lies so the smog is thick most afernoons and there is a coating of grime over everything. It must be terrible for the locals health longer term.
Vermillion flycatcher atop the security fencing between us and next door.
Security could be an issue at Chaclacayo although we had no problems, enjoying a 6km walk most days to shops and back. Houses have huge stone or brick fences with broken glass cemented into the tops of them as well as big spikes, barbed wire and then often a bouganvillea to cover it all and add a splash of colour and yet a few more spikes!
There are some well off parts and also some very poor areas down lower with liitle in the way of utilities.
We found people to be friendly but there is little or no english.
There were also many schools and childcare centres nearby as well as a religous facility.
More troubles when Carlos tried to boost the start batteries, apparently one of the batteries had failed but the charger kept trying to charge the lot resulting in 4 cooked and swollen batteries. Peru is not a cheap country to buy batteries but it is done. There is still a small leakage concerning us.
1-10 August
Still waiting!!! The lady at SUNAT helping with our paperwork went on rec leave Fri of the longweek-end and when SUNAT received our cancellation request they decided to complete an investigation. There have been multiple emails and phone calls but SUNAT have an IT problem and are not receiving our emails or documents.There appears to be a risk we will be fined or even the possibility the truck will be impounded; even though SUNAT have acknowledged the fault is theirs and we have followed the proper process we are not supposed to leave the counrty without the vehicle. Fortunately a Bolivian/French family have arrived at Carlos' in their camper and the father, Andres, has been very generous with his time, acting as a translator and emailing documents for us.
12 August
Today the electrician traced the earth leakage to a faulty relay in the 24-12V convereter , replaced the relay and finally fixed our multi-year electrical issue, Carlos welded some small cracks in the stabiliser bar mounts and the truck is good to go.
At 6pm - we receive an email from SUNAT with the results of the investigation, giving us the all clear and permission to go, go, go!!
Still waiting!!! The lady at SUNAT helping with our paperwork went on rec leave Fri of the longweek-end and when SUNAT received our cancellation request they decided to complete an investigation. There have been multiple emails and phone calls but SUNAT have an IT problem and are not receiving our emails or documents.There appears to be a risk we will be fined or even the possibility the truck will be impounded; even though SUNAT have acknowledged the fault is theirs and we have followed the proper process we are not supposed to leave the counrty without the vehicle. Fortunately a Bolivian/French family have arrived at Carlos' in their camper and the father, Andres, has been very generous with his time, acting as a translator and emailing documents for us.
12 August
Today the electrician traced the earth leakage to a faulty relay in the 24-12V convereter , replaced the relay and finally fixed our multi-year electrical issue, Carlos welded some small cracks in the stabiliser bar mounts and the truck is good to go.
At 6pm - we receive an email from SUNAT with the results of the investigation, giving us the all clear and permission to go, go, go!!
San Mateo
13 - 16 August
We are in the truck and going east from Lima. Our first night was spent only 60 kms away at 8455' (2577m) to allow for acclimatisation to the altitude. The next two nights in a field at San Mateo, of spring water fame, at 10,000' (3035m) but still only 10 kms from our previous camp. We had started using Diamox pills to assist with altitude adjustment but Cheryl had a strong reaction and discontinued although they worked well for Guy. Next on to a trout farm at Caruya (11,800' - 3589m) on the western end of the PE-22A. This was another big day....17kms and lunch at the trout farm.
We are in the truck and going east from Lima. Our first night was spent only 60 kms away at 8455' (2577m) to allow for acclimatisation to the altitude. The next two nights in a field at San Mateo, of spring water fame, at 10,000' (3035m) but still only 10 kms from our previous camp. We had started using Diamox pills to assist with altitude adjustment but Cheryl had a strong reaction and discontinued although they worked well for Guy. Next on to a trout farm at Caruya (11,800' - 3589m) on the western end of the PE-22A. This was another big day....17kms and lunch at the trout farm.
Trailer with a low loader lost over the side in a sharp bend.
17 - 19 August PE22 to Tinco - Alis
Feeling OK with the altitude we topped up our water tanks and set off on the PE-22, a very scenic single lane dirt road through the mountains. There is little traffic fortunately as passing another vehicle would be difficult on many sections.
Approaching the top of the pass near 16000ft (4917m) we see llamas and alpacas
grazing on the high pastures. Then just after the pass we wait as a crew with crane truck were placing a power pole and blocking the road. We waited 30ins or so until they were done and drove down into more amazing dry altiplano countryside eventually camping at quite a high altitude next to a bridge, the only flat area around. Felt a bit breathless and it was cold but clear skies. No dancing tonight!
Feeling OK with the altitude we topped up our water tanks and set off on the PE-22, a very scenic single lane dirt road through the mountains. There is little traffic fortunately as passing another vehicle would be difficult on many sections.
Approaching the top of the pass near 16000ft (4917m) we see llamas and alpacas
grazing on the high pastures. Then just after the pass we wait as a crew with crane truck were placing a power pole and blocking the road. We waited 30ins or so until they were done and drove down into more amazing dry altiplano countryside eventually camping at quite a high altitude next to a bridge, the only flat area around. Felt a bit breathless and it was cold but clear skies. No dancing tonight!
The town of Tanta.
As we drove towards the town of Tanta a boom gate prevented our entrance over the bridge. The ladies doing washing in the stream indicated we should blow the horn until someone came. Sure enough a man appeared and asked for 5 soles (AU$2.20) to enter the town. We obliged and stayed there for an interesting lunch.
And the road leads on.
From Tanta the beautiful green waters of the Cañete River slithered along beside us as we drove sometimes at stream level and sometimes winding around the mountains on dirt roads several hundred feet higher. It is a beautiful ravine. When the stream broadened into cataracts the sound was loud and crisp and the scene amazing. Eventually terracing and even more cataracts appeared.
We drove over a wooden bridge with a few bits of planks missing, passed trees loaded with spanish moss drooping from their branches and towards the PE-24 at Tinco-Alis where the road was a new single lane sealed road complete with white lines on either side.
This road follows a picturesque deep canyon up towards Huancayo.
Some interesting facts and figures about the drive from beside the stream to Tomas on 19 August: Altitude max. 3961m Min 3043m
However total climb sas 1941m and total descent 2554m. For an altitude change of only 689m for the day there was an awful lot of climbing and descending!
We drove over a wooden bridge with a few bits of planks missing, passed trees loaded with spanish moss drooping from their branches and towards the PE-24 at Tinco-Alis where the road was a new single lane sealed road complete with white lines on either side.
This road follows a picturesque deep canyon up towards Huancayo.
Some interesting facts and figures about the drive from beside the stream to Tomas on 19 August: Altitude max. 3961m Min 3043m
However total climb sas 1941m and total descent 2554m. For an altitude change of only 689m for the day there was an awful lot of climbing and descending!
20 - 23 August South towards Cusco
For a short while south of Huancayo the road was sealed and two laned. The usual speedbumps on the outer edges of town, near pedestrian crossings, major intersections and in front of all schools was driving Guy crazy. They are not small speed bumps, they require us to reduce our speed to almost zero to go over them!
We climbed back up to the altiplano into the land of alpacas, llamas and their shepherds, a few lakes but no flamingos just Andean geese and muscovy ducks. Crossed over a 4727m/15,508’ pass. The weather was overcast and cold with a breeze. Descended via many hairpin bends with oncoming trucks, buses and cars.
For a short while south of Huancayo the road was sealed and two laned. The usual speedbumps on the outer edges of town, near pedestrian crossings, major intersections and in front of all schools was driving Guy crazy. They are not small speed bumps, they require us to reduce our speed to almost zero to go over them!
We climbed back up to the altiplano into the land of alpacas, llamas and their shepherds, a few lakes but no flamingos just Andean geese and muscovy ducks. Crossed over a 4727m/15,508’ pass. The weather was overcast and cold with a breeze. Descended via many hairpin bends with oncoming trucks, buses and cars.
Stopped for lunch and this time the soup, main meal and dessert with a drink was only 6 soles (less than $3) each.
The truck had missed a couple of times and the gears grated on turning. Guy felt that fuel was the reason for the truck missing and so he drained it at a Petroperu servo (nice suck up Guy) and then put some additive in the diff for the gears. All fine after that.
The climbing and descending on 21 August was intense:
Altitude max. 4500m Min 2131m
Total climb 2393m Total descent 3068m - for an altitude change of only 674m for the day.
With changes like that and winding roads it took us a lot longer to travel along the PE-22 and on to Cusco. But the scenery was worth it.
The truck had missed a couple of times and the gears grated on turning. Guy felt that fuel was the reason for the truck missing and so he drained it at a Petroperu servo (nice suck up Guy) and then put some additive in the diff for the gears. All fine after that.
The climbing and descending on 21 August was intense:
Altitude max. 4500m Min 2131m
Total climb 2393m Total descent 3068m - for an altitude change of only 674m for the day.
With changes like that and winding roads it took us a lot longer to travel along the PE-22 and on to Cusco. But the scenery was worth it.
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There was a road closure for 45 minutes. Guy just can't resist those food vendors and their local delights. The locals sat and admired the view. More winding through the mountains ahead and passing through some very poor areas. |
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We didn't feel we saw that many people using the road until we stopped for a short break. In that 20 minute window several people passed with their animals including goats, donkeys, sheep, cattle and dogs and then two semi trailers faced off as they both wanted the same single lane.
Bridge crossing at the end of the day.
Driving south we turned off before Ayacucho to visit the village of Quinua with its pottery roof decorations. There is an archaeological site on the way and nearby quarries making adobe bricks for the restoration of the site and local housing.
Then the nightmare of driving around Ayacucho which has bollards up to prevent trucks driving through the narrow streets of the old town. That’s fine and we get it but no alternatives signed and the surrounding streets are also only wide enough for one car to navigate and usually one way because they are so narrow. But due to Guys patience and Cheryls excellent navigation we escaped to another beautiful campsite in the Andes.
Then the nightmare of driving around Ayacucho which has bollards up to prevent trucks driving through the narrow streets of the old town. That’s fine and we get it but no alternatives signed and the surrounding streets are also only wide enough for one car to navigate and usually one way because they are so narrow. But due to Guys patience and Cheryls excellent navigation we escaped to another beautiful campsite in the Andes.
"That's it Guy, straight ahead. Follow those bicycles towing trailers."
Fortunately you can't hear the response.
From dash cam
24 - 27 August Cusco
Finally arrived in Cusco. And once again Cheryl found the most challenging one way streets for Guy to drive through. Almost to the campground which overlooks Cusco when we came to secuirty and a barricade closing off the last 100m to the campground. A big concert ticketed event was happening on the property next to the campsite.
We had a day off before a wander through Cusco and some Incan ruins. We chose not to go to Machu Picchu deciding instead to keep the memories of 32 years ago when we walked the Inca Trail.
Finally arrived in Cusco. And once again Cheryl found the most challenging one way streets for Guy to drive through. Almost to the campground which overlooks Cusco when we came to secuirty and a barricade closing off the last 100m to the campground. A big concert ticketed event was happening on the property next to the campsite.
We had a day off before a wander through Cusco and some Incan ruins. We chose not to go to Machu Picchu deciding instead to keep the memories of 32 years ago when we walked the Inca Trail.
After a day in Cusco we looked at some of the Incan ruins in the area.
The Inca settlement of Sacsayhuaman. The fortress wall with a trapezoidal doorway leading to a turret.
Birds eye view of Sacsayhuaman
It is presumed that the Incan ruin of Sacsayhuaman was a fortress and a ceremonial centre. Constructed during the mid 15th century it took more than 50 years to build. The main wall of Sacsayhuaman is zigzag with giant stones up to 5 meters high and 2.5 meters wide (between 90 and 125 tons of weight). These walls remain today as a testimony not only to Inca power but also the skills of Inca architects.
Following the collapse of the Incan empire after the European invasion, most of the stones of the Sacsayhuaman were reused elsewhere in the colonial buildings of Cuzco. The ruins were covered in earth by the Spanish to prevent their use by rebel Inca forces and the site was not rediscovered until its excavation in 1934 CE.
Following the collapse of the Incan empire after the European invasion, most of the stones of the Sacsayhuaman were reused elsewhere in the colonial buildings of Cuzco. The ruins were covered in earth by the Spanish to prevent their use by rebel Inca forces and the site was not rediscovered until its excavation in 1934 CE.
28 - 30 August
From Cusco it was south and east through the beautiful Andes and villages with women wearing colourful clothing and interesting hats, snow capped peaks in the distance.
From the last mountain pass we viewed rugged snow capped mountains and unfortunately rubbish in the foreground.
From Cusco it was south and east through the beautiful Andes and villages with women wearing colourful clothing and interesting hats, snow capped peaks in the distance.
From the last mountain pass we viewed rugged snow capped mountains and unfortunately rubbish in the foreground.
Then it was the winding descent into forest and roadworks leaving behind the traditionally clothed Peruvian women with their interesting hats for the cooler clothing of the warmer temperatures.
Lots of driving with nights in Mazuko and Puerto Maldonaldo before entering Brazil.
Lots of driving with nights in Mazuko and Puerto Maldonaldo before entering Brazil.
Last mountain pass in the Andes - 15,541' before descending to the tropical lowlands and Brazil.