Mexico
24 March 2022
We flew into Mexico City via 2 days in Los Angeles not knowing what condition the Bee would be in. It is stored about an hours drive north of the city.
25 March
After a late arrival, a lengthy wait for our luggage and time to exchange some dollars eventually found our Airport hotel. Next morning Mina picked us up for the 45 min drive to Teotihuacan and the truck.
And here it is. Externally very dirty and the roof was almost covered in pine needles but inside was as we left it, no dust, mould, spiders or other creatures. We had been forewarned that the camper next to us had a blown tyre which caused their vehicle to start leaning towards ours and made accessing the side door and fuel filters impossible, however the Bee started with the first turn of the ignition key and Guy was able to carefully reverse the Bee into the open and give it a good wash. Happy days.
Mexico's climate is good for storing a vehicle and the owner of the trailer park had washed the pine needles off the solar panels after the wet last year which allowed the solar panels to keep the batteries alive.
We flew into Mexico City via 2 days in Los Angeles not knowing what condition the Bee would be in. It is stored about an hours drive north of the city.
25 March
After a late arrival, a lengthy wait for our luggage and time to exchange some dollars eventually found our Airport hotel. Next morning Mina picked us up for the 45 min drive to Teotihuacan and the truck.
And here it is. Externally very dirty and the roof was almost covered in pine needles but inside was as we left it, no dust, mould, spiders or other creatures. We had been forewarned that the camper next to us had a blown tyre which caused their vehicle to start leaning towards ours and made accessing the side door and fuel filters impossible, however the Bee started with the first turn of the ignition key and Guy was able to carefully reverse the Bee into the open and give it a good wash. Happy days.
Mexico's climate is good for storing a vehicle and the owner of the trailer park had washed the pine needles off the solar panels after the wet last year which allowed the solar panels to keep the batteries alive.
The Bee's resting place for just over 2 years.
Almost too close for comfort. The vehicle stored next to us blew a tyre and was leaning our way.
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Out at last
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The joy was short lived. A few hours later when we started the engine for the third time it didn't turn over. Oh! The filter is clogged, the fuel has gone bad (bacteria, moisture, algae, rusty tank). All of the above?
26 - 31 March
Eric, a mechanic here for another job, checked the fuel in the left tank. Not so good. Right tank okay. So he would return on Monday to drain the left tank, which we knew was rusting, fit fresh fuel filters, air filter and oil change.
Job done but Eric tries to start the engine using an aerosol primer into the air intake without priming the fuel. For a few moments it seems he may have damaged the injectors as there is an enormous clatter coming from the engine, after some manual priming the engine settles and runs smoothly.
Now for the fridge which hasn't functioned since we left Peru northbound in 2019. It's been very limiting without it. We brought a compressor back with us which needs to be fitted and then re-gassed. The fridge mechanic is supposed to arrive the morning of March 31 but is a
no show as his tools were stolen in a break-in the night before. We are keen to go, so decided to move to Oaxaca where we would try again for the fridge.
Eric, a mechanic here for another job, checked the fuel in the left tank. Not so good. Right tank okay. So he would return on Monday to drain the left tank, which we knew was rusting, fit fresh fuel filters, air filter and oil change.
Job done but Eric tries to start the engine using an aerosol primer into the air intake without priming the fuel. For a few moments it seems he may have damaged the injectors as there is an enormous clatter coming from the engine, after some manual priming the engine settles and runs smoothly.
Now for the fridge which hasn't functioned since we left Peru northbound in 2019. It's been very limiting without it. We brought a compressor back with us which needs to be fitted and then re-gassed. The fridge mechanic is supposed to arrive the morning of March 31 but is a
no show as his tools were stolen in a break-in the night before. We are keen to go, so decided to move to Oaxaca where we would try again for the fridge.
That irresistible smell of the roadside roast chicken stall.
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$4 piña coladas. Who can resist?
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Campsite at Teotihuacan
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Dry cactus scenery as we head south to Oaxaca.
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1 April
Departed Teotihuacan with the truck running well but had a small moment when after a long hot hill climb the engine sounded like something had given way. It sounded like we were dragging a tree branch loaded with leaves along with us. So time for a look 'under the bonnet' i.e. a cab tilt. The EGR pipe had blown off. Reattached the clamp and on our way again. Overnighted at a Pemex station on the way down to Oaxaca. |
Prickly pear in bloom next to where we tilted the cab.
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2 - 9 April in Oaxaca
Arrived at the camp on the outskirts of Oaxaca city and only a kilometre from the living tree with the largest circumference in the world that is still living - el Árbol del Tule.
This Montezuma cypress measured 42 m tall in 1998, with a girth of approximately 36 m and a diameter of 11.5 m, at 1.5 m above the ground - a Guinness World Record.
Arrived at the camp on the outskirts of Oaxaca city and only a kilometre from the living tree with the largest circumference in the world that is still living - el Árbol del Tule.
This Montezuma cypress measured 42 m tall in 1998, with a girth of approximately 36 m and a diameter of 11.5 m, at 1.5 m above the ground - a Guinness World Record.
Followed by an evening out at the local mezcal distillery. Although both tequila and mezcal are agave-based distilled spirits, tequila can only come from certain areas and be made solely with the blue agave plant. The mezcal can come from anywhere and any of 30 different agaves can be used. 70% of mezcal comes from Oaxaca. Ours was very smokey, rough and not for me.
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Tasting a local mezcal.
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Next day we searched Tule for a local 'technician' to work on the the fridge and then ventured into Oaxaca.
The fridge saga continued....in Mexico, mañana means next morning...just not the one you were thinking of...then they couldn't find the campsite...400m down the road from Tule. They eventually appear and work for hrs for $60. The fridge is slow to chill, more gas seems to do the trick but the compressor runs all night non-stop. The fridge guys ask us to give it another day, so we go back to explore more of Oaxaca.
We turned the fridge off for a couple of hours overnight to give he compressor a rest; bad move. It wouldn't cool when we turned it back on, then wouldn't turn on at all. Guy pulled the fridge out of the cabinet and magically it started again, just before the fridge mechanic returned. New thermostat we decided but we have spent too much money on this fridge and will let it run itself to the end, hopefully not before the end of the month when we expect to reach the US.
We turned the fridge off for a couple of hours overnight to give he compressor a rest; bad move. It wouldn't cool when we turned it back on, then wouldn't turn on at all. Guy pulled the fridge out of the cabinet and magically it started again, just before the fridge mechanic returned. New thermostat we decided but we have spent too much money on this fridge and will let it run itself to the end, hopefully not before the end of the month when we expect to reach the US.
The campground just outside Oaxaca was filling up as Easter neared. Some overlanders stayed here for two years during Covid restrictions.
Nope not camped with this lot
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Yep third from the front, the yellow one. That's us. You can just see our tail sticking out. Being right hand drive and having the 'house' opening on the left we are the opposite to everyone else so park front in.
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This gentleman was quietly working away when we arrived one Saturday afternoon.
On our extra day we decided to visit Teotitlan, a small village where many residents are making rugs in their houses. We entered a better known place where a man was working on his loom. It was Saturday and the looms of his daughter and wife were still. He showed us what he was doing and allowed us to wander around admiring the many rugs before showing us the natural dyes he used. Very gentle man, little english and no pressure. A very pleasant experience.
Many roadside nurseries and fruit shops on the green mountainside to the west.
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10 - 21 April Along the Pacific Coast
Bahia San Agustin From Oaxaca we drove across the dry central highlands through greener mountain areas reaching almost 10,000ft en route to Bahia de San Agustin on the Pacific coast. It was a long day of driving winding roads with hundreds of topes which are speed bumps of varying severity causing EVERYONE to slow down to walking pace to cross them. They are either side of most intersections, schools, even either side of some roadside stalls. |
But it was nice to arrive on the Pacific Coast and hear the waves crashing down. Hot and humid, with bare trees that allow the sun to bake the dark sand but the recently installed pool in the RV park helped.
The open ocean beach was beautiful but too dangerous for swimming; the clear waters of the bay were much calmer with the added attraction of snorkelling close to the shore. Although the coral seemed mostly dead, plenty of colourful fish were swimming around it.
Most of the locals can't swim but used lifejackets and stay in shallow.
The open ocean beach was beautiful but too dangerous for swimming; the clear waters of the bay were much calmer with the added attraction of snorkelling close to the shore. Although the coral seemed mostly dead, plenty of colourful fish were swimming around it.
Most of the locals can't swim but used lifejackets and stay in shallow.
These ladies felt safer sitting and holding on to the anchor ropes as the waves washed up to them.
Saturday morning traffic at the beach. Mexican drivers are quite cautious and patient on the highway and also in the towns.
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Laguna de Manialtepec
From San Agustin we drove north stopping at Playa Zipolite for lunch. This is a clothing optional beach and then on through the small fishing villages of San Agustinillo and Mazunte before rejoining the MEX200 road. It was slow going as the roads are winding and the inevitable topés, also called reductors seem to be every 50 -100 metres as we drive through the villages. Fortunately most are signposted. Our next campsite was about 15 kms west of Puerto Escondido. The campsite is actually in the grounds of a restaurant. It also runs boat tours of the lake which we were interested in doing. We had seen soaring frigate birds further south and they were here too. |
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Playa Ventura
Back to the beach but the surf is a bit dangerous. Still a nice camp and although humid there was a pool for when the surf was too dangerous. A restaurant, reasonable wifi and some hamacas (hammocks). What more could we want for a relaxing time. |
Bags of salt for sale on the roadside just south of Playa Ventura.
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This poor man told me he is doing it really tough.
The beach is slowly eroding away.
Loma Bonita
Best beach, camp and weather along the coast so far.
Best beach, camp and weather along the coast so far.
22 April
We head inland up to Pátzcuaro with milder days and cooler night temperatures. The roads are pretty good, especially when we hit the cuota (toll road) which isn't quite four lanes. The practice is for slower vehicles/trucks to drive on the verge to allow for others to pass. Drivers seem to respect that and move over when there is oncoming traffic, common to have 3 abreast on the two lanes.
We head inland up to Pátzcuaro with milder days and cooler night temperatures. The roads are pretty good, especially when we hit the cuota (toll road) which isn't quite four lanes. The practice is for slower vehicles/trucks to drive on the verge to allow for others to pass. Drivers seem to respect that and move over when there is oncoming traffic, common to have 3 abreast on the two lanes.
22, 23 April Pátzcuaro
We arrived to campgrounds overlooking the town and Pátzcuaro Lake with the sound of a mariachi band floating up the hill. It is a beautiful spot.
We arrived to campgrounds overlooking the town and Pátzcuaro Lake with the sound of a mariachi band floating up the hill. It is a beautiful spot.
View from our camp.
Blue agave used in the making of Tequila surround the township of Tequilla.
Do we, don't we?
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24, 25 April Tepic
A huge day of driving to get to Tepic. We covered close to 600kms and spent over AU$100 on tolls. From end to end Mexico is almost the same distance as from Sydney to Perth. Some interesting fellow travellers, a speeding orange McLaren super-car being closely tailed by a Mercedes GWagen with blacked out windows - the security detail. I wonder how he makes his money? North of Guadalajara queues were two and three kilometre long at southbound toll booths as holidaymakers returned from the Easter school holiday break; lucky we're heading north. Our next dilemma came as we passed the Tequila volcano and its rivers of basalt.... do we turn into the township for a tasting? No tequila today but another enjoyable margarita tonight. A day off to kick a few tyres and have a wheel rotation on the Bee. |
26, 27 April
Paid about AU$65 in tolls to Mazatlan on the cuota roads which are in better condition and safer. Mazatlan was much more of a beachside tourist town than we expected although we were here to catch the overnight car ferry to La Paz, Baja California Sur.
Paid about AU$65 in tolls to Mazatlan on the cuota roads which are in better condition and safer. Mazatlan was much more of a beachside tourist town than we expected although we were here to catch the overnight car ferry to La Paz, Baja California Sur.
28 April - 3 May Baja California Sur
The Baja California Peninsula is a popular tourist destination for Americans and so there are better facilities, roads..... and fewer topes, those speed bumps. We chose to drive from La Paz through the old silver mining centre of El Triunfo with a detour to a cactus sanctuary and on to the picturesque Bahia de los Muertos. No other campers but a few boats anchored in the bay. At daybreak the beach was alive with small, open, local boats taking mostly foreigners out for a day of fishing. We saw some coloured fish and an eel as we snorkelled in the warm waters.
From Bahia de los Muertos we followed the coast on a dirt road. Beautiful weather. A few surfing spots, campers on the mostly pebble beaches but generally quiet until we got to San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas which are modern tourist hubs.
The Baja California Peninsula is a popular tourist destination for Americans and so there are better facilities, roads..... and fewer topes, those speed bumps. We chose to drive from La Paz through the old silver mining centre of El Triunfo with a detour to a cactus sanctuary and on to the picturesque Bahia de los Muertos. No other campers but a few boats anchored in the bay. At daybreak the beach was alive with small, open, local boats taking mostly foreigners out for a day of fishing. We saw some coloured fish and an eel as we snorkelled in the warm waters.
From Bahia de los Muertos we followed the coast on a dirt road. Beautiful weather. A few surfing spots, campers on the mostly pebble beaches but generally quiet until we got to San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas which are modern tourist hubs.
The Baja California Peninsula is over 1220 kms long and the main road criss crosses the peninsula. Fortunately the road is in good condition with very few topes. But it is a long way and we drove it fairly quickly .... about 80km/hr for the truck. We enjoyed our camps on the beach with one particularly idyllic spot south of Loreto and San Ignacio in the centre of the peninsula is an oasis with many palms. An off road rally was being conducted through San Ignacio when we were there with the starting point in front of the church in the main square.
Below are a few of the different cacti that we came across. These labelled specimens were in the church garden at San Ignacio.
As we drove north we came across cordon cacti that were taller than the powerlines!
As we drove north we came across cordon cacti that were taller than the powerlines!
4 - 6 May Baja California, the northern half
The western coast is more rugged with steep cliffs, sea lions, kelp beds, birds, little in the way of high vegetation, no cacti with a sea fog waiting to roll in. It was dry and windy.
In the very north we camped in the grape growing area of the Guadalupe Valley.
So many cacti. I will try to eventually identify some.
The western coast is more rugged with steep cliffs, sea lions, kelp beds, birds, little in the way of high vegetation, no cacti with a sea fog waiting to roll in. It was dry and windy.
In the very north we camped in the grape growing area of the Guadalupe Valley.
So many cacti. I will try to eventually identify some.
We crossed the border into the US at Tecarte. The locals were very helpful when we required some last minute assistance to get some forms copied for the truck to be shipped in the US.
Lined up against the wall between Mexico and the USA as we slowly move towards the border.