Spain and Portugal
26 - 28 March 2015
We drove down into Spain and headed west towards Pamplona. There were amazing views towards the snowcapped mountains on our descent and many attractive sandstone villages crowded around a church on hilltops.
The area changed to very rugged as we approached our campsite by Lake Tremp. I think it has been very dry as the lake was very low.
We drove down into Spain and headed west towards Pamplona. There were amazing views towards the snowcapped mountains on our descent and many attractive sandstone villages crowded around a church on hilltops.
The area changed to very rugged as we approached our campsite by Lake Tremp. I think it has been very dry as the lake was very low.
Running of the Bulls monument in Pamplona.
29 March
We have a beautiful clear day for Bilbao and the Guggenheim Museum which we have been looking forward to. We were even lucky enough to find a park big enough for the truck in the city and no parking fees because it is Sunday.
Everybody is out as it is spring and festivals are happening.
We have a beautiful clear day for Bilbao and the Guggenheim Museum which we have been looking forward to. We were even lucky enough to find a park big enough for the truck in the city and no parking fees because it is Sunday.
Everybody is out as it is spring and festivals are happening.
Small church and cemetry near Cabarceno.
Very picturesque countryside around Cabarceno where we camped. We took the road looking for somewhere quiet in the forest and chanced across about 2 dozen campers waiting to catch the ferry from Santander to England the next day.
Waiter throwing sidre and Julie running for cover.
30, 31 March
Further west and our next stop for 2 nights was in the small fishing town of Candas where we caught up with Julie from Sandgate. Relaxing time walking around town and trying some Spanish culinary delights – seafood paella, sangria, fabada (bean and tomato broth with sausage, black pudding and ham chunks). It was strong and tasty but it didn’t sit well with Guy. We also had sidre (Spanish cider) which was thrown the traditional way. The waiter pours a small amount into a wide glass without looking from about a metre high to aerate it. Our waiter needed more practice but enjoyed it all the same.
Those fresh churros and hot chocolate were delicious.
And the final treat in Candas was freshly made churros and hot chocolate with Julie and Guy for breakfast on the day we left. I was speechless!
On our way west we passed the diehard surfers in their long wetsuits, gloves and booties warming up before hitting the freezing Atlantic water.
On our way to Santiago de Compostela we saw Praia As Catedrais (Beach of the Cathedrals) which was like a mini 12 Apostles on the southern Victorian coast.
The signposts for those walking the Camino de Santiago. Yes they are gum trees in the background.
1 April
As we drove closer to Santiago de Compostela we noticed many Camino de Santiago signs and people walking along the track. I guess with Easter in a couple of days it is a peak time.
We found a car and expensive motorhome park about 2kms from the centre of town. 15.50€ with the only facility being a waste water dump –no fresh water or toilets.
In the late afternoon we walked up and down the hills to the cobblestoned centre of town passing an Easter procession on the way.
The centre of town was bigger than I expected and the cathedral was huge. Unfortunately the cathedral was being renovated and so we didn’t see it at its best. But lots and lots of people came into the restaurants and bars in the old town as it became darker around 8.30 or so.
As we drove closer to Santiago de Compostela we noticed many Camino de Santiago signs and people walking along the track. I guess with Easter in a couple of days it is a peak time.
We found a car and expensive motorhome park about 2kms from the centre of town. 15.50€ with the only facility being a waste water dump –no fresh water or toilets.
In the late afternoon we walked up and down the hills to the cobblestoned centre of town passing an Easter procession on the way.
The centre of town was bigger than I expected and the cathedral was huge. Unfortunately the cathedral was being renovated and so we didn’t see it at its best. But lots and lots of people came into the restaurants and bars in the old town as it became darker around 8.30 or so.
Spanish grain store houses called horreo.
2 April
There was a huge clothes and garlic market next to our carpark. As we have enough clothing we went on to our next stop of Porto on the west coast of Portugal. We had managed to avoid tollways in Spain but not so easy in Portugal.
We stopped at Esposende on the coast on the way south. The blue ocean, rolling waves and sand were just like home.
There was a huge clothes and garlic market next to our carpark. As we have enough clothing we went on to our next stop of Porto on the west coast of Portugal. We had managed to avoid tollways in Spain but not so easy in Portugal.
We stopped at Esposende on the coast on the way south. The blue ocean, rolling waves and sand were just like home.
Coastline north of Porto.
3 April
We had a great view of Porto from our free camp across the river. Unfortunately there weren't any ferries and so we walked about 2 kilometres where we caught a 'hop on, hop off' bus. Enjoyed the town with everything open even though it was Good Friday. One of the more unusual highlights was the Walked back across the double decker Dom Luis Bridge.
We had a great view of Porto from our free camp across the river. Unfortunately there weren't any ferries and so we walked about 2 kilometres where we caught a 'hop on, hop off' bus. Enjoyed the town with everything open even though it was Good Friday. One of the more unusual highlights was the Walked back across the double decker Dom Luis Bridge.
Easter treats boxed and tied by the all male staff.
4, 5 April
It was time to head to the beach near Mira (Prais de Mira), about 100 kms south. We stopped for some Easter treats and coffee at a the Mira pasteleria. Our selection was nicely boxed and tied. We have noticed that most of the staff in the pastelerias are male.
The beach was just like home with blue water, wide sandy beaches, sun and waves. The missing ingredient was warmth but the extra ingredient was wooden Portuguese boats on the sand.
It was time to head to the beach near Mira (Prais de Mira), about 100 kms south. We stopped for some Easter treats and coffee at a the Mira pasteleria. Our selection was nicely boxed and tied. We have noticed that most of the staff in the pastelerias are male.
The beach was just like home with blue water, wide sandy beaches, sun and waves. The missing ingredient was warmth but the extra ingredient was wooden Portuguese boats on the sand.
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We were lucky enough to see the men bringing the nets in the next morning. They were hauling squid, cuttlefish, crab and small fish including sardines in the nets which were close to a kilometre long.
A dogs life.
Most dogs are small and walked by the men. No strays.
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High prowed boats used for getting through the surf to get their nets out.
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Entering Elvas under the aqueduct. We camped in a large parking area on the other side of this aqueduct.
6, 7 April
We were travelling inland and then south to Elvas, a town not far from the Spanish border. We had arranged to meet up with Deb and Barb there and return their spare wheel from last year.
It was pleasant driving through the dry mountainous countryside with churches dotted in the towns. Fine weather but still cold.
The aqueduct we camped next to was only completed in 1622 and so is relatively recent. It is considered the longest in the Iberian Peninsula at 7.5km long and no longer.
We were travelling inland and then south to Elvas, a town not far from the Spanish border. We had arranged to meet up with Deb and Barb there and return their spare wheel from last year.
It was pleasant driving through the dry mountainous countryside with churches dotted in the towns. Fine weather but still cold.
The aqueduct we camped next to was only completed in 1622 and so is relatively recent. It is considered the longest in the Iberian Peninsula at 7.5km long and no longer.
 One of 3 gates of the 12 sided fort of Elvas. Cars still driving through.
Elvas was interesting to wander around with explanatory plaques at points of interest. We were also treated to an in depth description of one of the churches by a man who was quite passionate about the church and its past as a mosque.
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This building was originally built as a mosque and then remodelled to become a church.
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8 April
We left Portugal for a short drive to Merida in Spain.
Merida has many Roman ruins but it also has excellent information boards which made the experience so much more rewarding despite the inclement weather.
We saw the Roman Forum, Diana's Temple, Alcazabar and Circus Maximus but the highlight was the Roman Theatre and neighbouring amphitheatre. The Amphitheatre of Merida was inaugurated in 8 B.C. The Roman Theatre was built in 15 B.C. but has undergone several restorations before being abandoned sometime before the 8th century. It was excavated from 1910. The front stage was rebuilt and has hosted the Festival of Classical Theatre of Merida since 1933. It would be amazing to be in the audience for one of those performances.
We left Portugal for a short drive to Merida in Spain.
Merida has many Roman ruins but it also has excellent information boards which made the experience so much more rewarding despite the inclement weather.
We saw the Roman Forum, Diana's Temple, Alcazabar and Circus Maximus but the highlight was the Roman Theatre and neighbouring amphitheatre. The Amphitheatre of Merida was inaugurated in 8 B.C. The Roman Theatre was built in 15 B.C. but has undergone several restorations before being abandoned sometime before the 8th century. It was excavated from 1910. The front stage was rebuilt and has hosted the Festival of Classical Theatre of Merida since 1933. It would be amazing to be in the audience for one of those performances.
9 April
Well the truck is causing concerns. The roof had to be manually brought down as one of the actuators is broken. The other concern is the diff which we feel may have been damaged in the accident and worsened by subsequent attempts to repair it. So we will go to Madrid to see if we can get parts. Meanwhile Deb and Barb return to Portugal.
But before we all go our separate ways we have something to eat at a local restaurant/bar. Its also raining. The Iberica ham is a specialty and cutting it is an art. There is a special holder and a very fine knife is also used to cut it into extremely fine slices.
Well the truck is causing concerns. The roof had to be manually brought down as one of the actuators is broken. The other concern is the diff which we feel may have been damaged in the accident and worsened by subsequent attempts to repair it. So we will go to Madrid to see if we can get parts. Meanwhile Deb and Barb return to Portugal.
But before we all go our separate ways we have something to eat at a local restaurant/bar. Its also raining. The Iberica ham is a specialty and cutting it is an art. There is a special holder and a very fine knife is also used to cut it into extremely fine slices.
Serious business cutting very fine slices of specially cured Iberian ham.
10 April - Madrid
We arrived in Madrid just before lunch which is 12 - 3 at the place we needed information from. Their supplier in Barcelona was on lunch from 12.30 - 3.30. Nothing is happening fast and the chain of command from the head office in Denmark must be followed. Some eagerness to help but english is a problem and so Guy resorts to emails to Australia.
It looks like a hotel stay for 3 nights on the outskirts of Madrid.
We arrived in Madrid just before lunch which is 12 - 3 at the place we needed information from. Their supplier in Barcelona was on lunch from 12.30 - 3.30. Nothing is happening fast and the chain of command from the head office in Denmark must be followed. Some eagerness to help but english is a problem and so Guy resorts to emails to Australia.
It looks like a hotel stay for 3 nights on the outskirts of Madrid.
11, 12 April - Madrid
Guy checked more things on the truck, changed a headlight bulb (a 3 hour operation involving dropping the bullbar) before we caught a bus in to see a bit of Madrid. We wandered around the Parque de Retiro and watched the locals enjoying some sunshine. We saw many interesting street performers, buildings and churches as we walked through the city.
The Cathedral of St Mary the Royal of La Almudena was very new having only been consecrated in 1993. Madrid had been without a cathedral since 1561 when the capital transferred from there to Toledo. The Spanish felt it was more important to build new cities and cathedrals in the new world. It became a priority to build the largest cathedral the world had ever seen when construction started in 1879.
Guy checked more things on the truck, changed a headlight bulb (a 3 hour operation involving dropping the bullbar) before we caught a bus in to see a bit of Madrid. We wandered around the Parque de Retiro and watched the locals enjoying some sunshine. We saw many interesting street performers, buildings and churches as we walked through the city.
The Cathedral of St Mary the Royal of La Almudena was very new having only been consecrated in 1993. Madrid had been without a cathedral since 1561 when the capital transferred from there to Toledo. The Spanish felt it was more important to build new cities and cathedrals in the new world. It became a priority to build the largest cathedral the world had ever seen when construction started in 1879.
Nesting storks on the outskirts of Madrid. Not sure how well the aerials work or the reprodution rate of the storks.
13 April
A day at Isuzu cleared Guys mind reference the diff. All ok as the last of our additive was put in. It seems there is none to be bought in Spain. No 4WD here? Another night in Madrid but this time at a campground to wait for a few responses and the decision tomorrow reference the actuaters that lift the roof of the truck - 4 new and improved ones or 1 replacement?
A day at Isuzu cleared Guys mind reference the diff. All ok as the last of our additive was put in. It seems there is none to be bought in Spain. No 4WD here? Another night in Madrid but this time at a campground to wait for a few responses and the decision tomorrow reference the actuaters that lift the roof of the truck - 4 new and improved ones or 1 replacement?
Inspecting the disassembled diff for damage. Although little english was spoken, staff were very helpful.
14, 15 April - Madrid
All things considered we went for 1 new actuator.
The truck did not seem quite right as we drove around and so we decided to get more additive from Jeep who seem to be the only ones who understand that it is needed for our 4WD vehicle. Guy put it in the diff and we were off south in the peak hour ttraffic. We happened to pass where they make the tailpanes for the Airbus in the process.
Drove about 120kms and decided to pull over at a servo for the night. Crunch, crunch as we turned. The diff! Even I could hear and feel it.
Guy found a slither of metal when changing the diff oil and additive. Still not good so we returned carefully to Madrid the next morning, living as 1.4 metre people in the back overnight.
We returned to the Isuzu workshop in Madrid. The Isuzu mechanic is out on the road.
The office lady, Victoria, with very good english took us to accommodation nearby and arranged for us to be picked up the next morning at our leisure.
All things considered we went for 1 new actuator.
The truck did not seem quite right as we drove around and so we decided to get more additive from Jeep who seem to be the only ones who understand that it is needed for our 4WD vehicle. Guy put it in the diff and we were off south in the peak hour ttraffic. We happened to pass where they make the tailpanes for the Airbus in the process.
Drove about 120kms and decided to pull over at a servo for the night. Crunch, crunch as we turned. The diff! Even I could hear and feel it.
Guy found a slither of metal when changing the diff oil and additive. Still not good so we returned carefully to Madrid the next morning, living as 1.4 metre people in the back overnight.
We returned to the Isuzu workshop in Madrid. The Isuzu mechanic is out on the road.
The office lady, Victoria, with very good english took us to accommodation nearby and arranged for us to be picked up the next morning at our leisure.
16 April
The diff is taken apart at the Isuzu workshop - no visible damage. A ring that compresses the LSD clutch is taken out as a precaution. Then we wait for oil and additive to be found and brought to the workshop. We had bought the last of the Jeep additive yesterday but a premix of oil and additive was eventually sourced from Toyota. We set off for Granada around 6pm.
We drove about 120kms without incident although I did notice that the fridge seemed a bit warm when I took the ingredients out for dinner. Because of the roof not working Guy was cooking outside on our portable petrol burner. Luckily the weather was fine and warm.
The diff is taken apart at the Isuzu workshop - no visible damage. A ring that compresses the LSD clutch is taken out as a precaution. Then we wait for oil and additive to be found and brought to the workshop. We had bought the last of the Jeep additive yesterday but a premix of oil and additive was eventually sourced from Toyota. We set off for Granada around 6pm.
We drove about 120kms without incident although I did notice that the fridge seemed a bit warm when I took the ingredients out for dinner. Because of the roof not working Guy was cooking outside on our portable petrol burner. Luckily the weather was fine and warm.
South of Madrid
17 April - Granada
Everything associated with the diff seems ok but we still have the roof actuator problem as we head to Granada. More information is needed before it can be sent from Australia.
We arrived at the campsite and took a couple of buses to the city centre and enjoyed a meal and a wander around town before walking just over 3 kms back to camp in the evening.
Everything associated with the diff seems ok but we still have the roof actuator problem as we head to Granada. More information is needed before it can be sent from Australia.
We arrived at the campsite and took a couple of buses to the city centre and enjoyed a meal and a wander around town before walking just over 3 kms back to camp in the evening.
We arrived home to water running across the camper. The fridge is running but not coolling. Fortunately we were staying in a comfortable campground.
18 April - Granada
The reception staff rang a refrigerator mechanic who arrived about 2pm. By then Guy had seen the problem which was a worn copper pipe that had leaked all the refrigerant, very bad smell. No refrigerant so the fridge man will be back Monday morning, about 12. At least we could stand up in the truck by propping up the roof with a piece of timber.
Time to book the flamenco dancing for tonight and visit Alhambra tomorrow.
Fantastic flamenco performances in a cave in the gypsy quarter of Sacromonte. Full of passion and power and incredible footwork and while one danced the others clapped. The male singers who accompanied them also sang with passion. Well and truely a night to remember, even for Guy. The photos don't capture the atmosphere unfortunately.
18 April - Granada
The reception staff rang a refrigerator mechanic who arrived about 2pm. By then Guy had seen the problem which was a worn copper pipe that had leaked all the refrigerant, very bad smell. No refrigerant so the fridge man will be back Monday morning, about 12. At least we could stand up in the truck by propping up the roof with a piece of timber.
Time to book the flamenco dancing for tonight and visit Alhambra tomorrow.
Fantastic flamenco performances in a cave in the gypsy quarter of Sacromonte. Full of passion and power and incredible footwork and while one danced the others clapped. The male singers who accompanied them also sang with passion. Well and truely a night to remember, even for Guy. The photos don't capture the atmosphere unfortunately.
19 April - Granada
We were up before sunrise to get to Alhambra early for tickets. We entered just before 9am and had until 2pm to cover it all. Not easy when you run into a friend from ATC, Chris (Doc) and Paula!
Alhambra was a small fortress built in 889. Its ruins were rebuilt in the mid 11th century by the Moors who built its current Palace and walls. It became a Royal Palace in 1333. In 1492 Christian rulers used parts of it and in the 16th century further Christian buildings were added along with the gardens, Generalife.
We were up before sunrise to get to Alhambra early for tickets. We entered just before 9am and had until 2pm to cover it all. Not easy when you run into a friend from ATC, Chris (Doc) and Paula!
Alhambra was a small fortress built in 889. Its ruins were rebuilt in the mid 11th century by the Moors who built its current Palace and walls. It became a Royal Palace in 1333. In 1492 Christian rulers used parts of it and in the 16th century further Christian buildings were added along with the gardens, Generalife.
20, 21 April - Granada
The fridge man came back, soldered the copper piping and put refrigerant in the fridge. Not good enough, more refrigerant required late the following day.
The fridge man came back, soldered the copper piping and put refrigerant in the fridge. Not good enough, more refrigerant required late the following day.
22 April
We left Granada and headed towards Cordoba via picturesque Luques and Zuheros with a nearby National Park. So nice to be in the countryside again. Camped in the park with a fantastic view and not far from some bat caves.
We left Granada and headed towards Cordoba via picturesque Luques and Zuheros with a nearby National Park. So nice to be in the countryside again. Camped in the park with a fantastic view and not far from some bat caves.
Zuheros
Overlooking Zuheros with the old castle to the left.
23 April - Cordoba
Woke to the sounds of birds chirping, goats with their bells ringing as they passed us (Parque Natural rules different here) and the ominous sign of griffin vultures circling over a rocky outcrop nearby.
As we drove through the countryside there was a strong smell of olive branches being burnt.
We moved on to Cordoba to see the Mosque-cathedral. Originally a Christian church, then in 711 when the Muslims conquered Spain it was divided into a Christian half and a Muslim half. In 784 it was all demolished and the first stage of the Mezquita of Coroba was built. However in 1236 after the Spanish Reconquista a cathedral was built in the centre of the large Moorish building.
Woke to the sounds of birds chirping, goats with their bells ringing as they passed us (Parque Natural rules different here) and the ominous sign of griffin vultures circling over a rocky outcrop nearby.
As we drove through the countryside there was a strong smell of olive branches being burnt.
We moved on to Cordoba to see the Mosque-cathedral. Originally a Christian church, then in 711 when the Muslims conquered Spain it was divided into a Christian half and a Muslim half. In 784 it was all demolished and the first stage of the Mezquita of Coroba was built. However in 1236 after the Spanish Reconquista a cathedral was built in the centre of the large Moorish building.
24, 25, 26 April - Seville
We arrive in Seville and it is Feria - an amazing festival with lots of colour and life and fortunately excellent weather. The festival goes for 6 days culminating in 30 minutes of fireworks around midnight on the last day. Our campsite in a carpark is only minutes walk away.
We arrive in Seville and it is Feria - an amazing festival with lots of colour and life and fortunately excellent weather. The festival goes for 6 days culminating in 30 minutes of fireworks around midnight on the last day. Our campsite in a carpark is only minutes walk away.
There are over 1000 stalls and an amusement area. Half of the stalls are owned by families and the others are owned by associations, companies and groups and 6 public stalls. There are usually guards at the stalls so no going into the wrong one to enjoy their hospitality which includes food, drinks and often entertainment. No Isuzu stall but we did see the Engineers and Port Authority. Many of the horses and carts are owned by families but there are also some available for hire.
It is also a major bullfighting festival. Guy thought about going but decided against it.
It is also a major bullfighting festival. Guy thought about going but decided against it.
Plaza de Toros, Seville. The oldest bullfighting ring in the world.
DAF, Isuzu workshop in Seville were very helpful.
27, 28 April - Seville
We made some headway with the fridge which seems much better now. But only time will tell if it is completely fixed. Morocco,s heat will be the test.
We also had work done on the Isuzu. I often wonder how the 2 hour lunch break would go in summer at home when workers shut up shop completely.
Actuator tomorrow after we pay almost 2/3 of the cost of the actuator in tax and other fees!
Cork tree stripped of bark from about 2 metres down. It grows back and is reharvested in 9 years.
29, 30 April
Gearbox oil change at Isuzu, pick up the actuator and we are off to a camp in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park in the mountains near El Bosque. Next day, it was a beautiful drive through the cork forests towards the coast. Then just before we descended from the mountains to the coast we were treated to the stunning sight of Gibraltar and Africa in the distance.
We enjoyed the campground on the beach next to the Mediterranean Sea amongst many British holidaymakers.
Unable to fix the roof yet.
Gearbox oil change at Isuzu, pick up the actuator and we are off to a camp in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park in the mountains near El Bosque. Next day, it was a beautiful drive through the cork forests towards the coast. Then just before we descended from the mountains to the coast we were treated to the stunning sight of Gibraltar and Africa in the distance.
We enjoyed the campground on the beach next to the Mediterranean Sea amongst many British holidaymakers.
Unable to fix the roof yet.
View from Gaucin right down to Gibraltar and Africa.
1 May - Labour Day Holiday
We drive down towards Gibraltar parking on the Spanish side and then walk easily through Customs. We decide to do a tour as it is hot and the rock is steep. Good decision as the tour was very informative.
Bought tickets for the ferry from Algeciras to Tangier Med which is about 40kms east of Tangiers.
We drive down towards Gibraltar parking on the Spanish side and then walk easily through Customs. We decide to do a tour as it is hot and the rock is steep. Good decision as the tour was very informative.
Bought tickets for the ferry from Algeciras to Tangier Med which is about 40kms east of Tangiers.
2 May
Last minute shop for meat and alcohol and we head off to the ferry terminal at Algeciras to catch the 1030 ferry to Tanger-Med, Morocco. Weather good, calm water for the 90 minute crossing to Africa.
Last minute shop for meat and alcohol and we head off to the ferry terminal at Algeciras to catch the 1030 ferry to Tanger-Med, Morocco. Weather good, calm water for the 90 minute crossing to Africa.