Ecuador
27 May 2017 Quito
Wow, Quito has changed from when we were here 30 years ago. And probably just as well because the roads clinging to the mountainsides were nerve wracking.
Wow, Quito has changed from when we were here 30 years ago. And probably just as well because the roads clinging to the mountainsides were nerve wracking.
Much of Quito is built on mountainsides.
We only had an afternoon to enjoy Quito as we were to leave for the airport early the next morning. Across the road from our hotel was a huge park with food stalls and souvenir stalls, people playing volleyball and others just enjoying the park. We joined them for the afternoon before meeting up with the our Galapagos travel group for a briefing in the early evening.
Short eared owl
28 May (Day 1) - Santa cruz, Galapagos Islands Early start to the airport where we caught a 30 minute flight to Guayaquil on Ecuador's coast before continuing a further 2 hours to Baltra, about 1000 kms off the coast to the west.
We weren't even out of the arrival hall and this owl was there to prepare us for the birdlife we were about to encounter.
Our guide Graciella met us at Baltra airport before taking us to a nearby pier to be ferried in pangas (zodiac boats) to our boat, home for the next 8 days.
There were 15 passengers, 8 crew and our guide.
We weren't even out of the arrival hall and this owl was there to prepare us for the birdlife we were about to encounter.
Our guide Graciella met us at Baltra airport before taking us to a nearby pier to be ferried in pangas (zodiac boats) to our boat, home for the next 8 days.
There were 15 passengers, 8 crew and our guide.
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Pangas ferrying people and luggage to waiting boats.
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It was superb weather. After settling into our cabins and having lunch we headed to Las Bachas, a turtle nesting area on Santa Cruz Island. We all fitted into the two pangas and crossed the clear water to the crushed coral beach. Evidence of past turtle activity but we were too late in the season to see anything now. However we did see our first Sally Lightfoot crabs, marine iguana, brown pelicans, flamingo, black necked stilt and over flying blue footed booby. An exciting start.
The short eared owl preys on storm petrels that nest in the cracks of the rocks.
29 May (Day 2) - Genovesa Island
Overnight we motored about 100 kms to Darwin's Bay, Genovesa Island to the north east. The Island was shaped from the eruption of a volcano and the eventual collapse of one side of the caldera in which we were moored.
Arriving on Darwin Beach we were amazed to see lava gulls, red footed boobies, galapagos doves and Nazca boobies all nesting; many male frigate birds with their heads back cooing, red throat pouches puffed up, wings extended and shaking as a female flew over. It was all action. The birds paid no attention to us as we wandered through the scrub. It was wonderful to see so many birds and even a sea lion.
We snorkelled along the caldera wall near Prince Philip Steps seeing colourful tropical fish and a couple of sea lions. Later we ascended El Barranco (Prince Philips Steps) on to a plateau and walked through the palo santo (holy wood) forest with nesting frigate birds and Nazca boobies and their young and even saw Galapagos mockingbirds. Eventually we arrived at a seabird colony of more Nazca boobies and many storm petrels darting about, too quick for my camera. A short eared owl waited patiently near grass. The short-eared owls on Genovesa island have developed a unique hunting behaviour. They hunt during the day for the storm petrels that nest in tunnels in the lava rock, usually out of reach of the owls. However the owls have learnt to stalk nearby, watching the petrels as they enter and leave the tunnels. The owls then wait for the petrel to leave the tunnel and catch them unawares. They may also hide in the entrance of the tunnel to grab a petrel as it flies in.
Overnight we motored about 100 kms to Darwin's Bay, Genovesa Island to the north east. The Island was shaped from the eruption of a volcano and the eventual collapse of one side of the caldera in which we were moored.
Arriving on Darwin Beach we were amazed to see lava gulls, red footed boobies, galapagos doves and Nazca boobies all nesting; many male frigate birds with their heads back cooing, red throat pouches puffed up, wings extended and shaking as a female flew over. It was all action. The birds paid no attention to us as we wandered through the scrub. It was wonderful to see so many birds and even a sea lion.
We snorkelled along the caldera wall near Prince Philip Steps seeing colourful tropical fish and a couple of sea lions. Later we ascended El Barranco (Prince Philips Steps) on to a plateau and walked through the palo santo (holy wood) forest with nesting frigate birds and Nazca boobies and their young and even saw Galapagos mockingbirds. Eventually we arrived at a seabird colony of more Nazca boobies and many storm petrels darting about, too quick for my camera. A short eared owl waited patiently near grass. The short-eared owls on Genovesa island have developed a unique hunting behaviour. They hunt during the day for the storm petrels that nest in tunnels in the lava rock, usually out of reach of the owls. However the owls have learnt to stalk nearby, watching the petrels as they enter and leave the tunnels. The owls then wait for the petrel to leave the tunnel and catch them unawares. They may also hide in the entrance of the tunnel to grab a petrel as it flies in.
Snorkelling near Pinnacle Rock
30 May (Day 3) - Bartolomé and Santiago Islands
The day started with a short hike to Isla Bartholomé summit with stunning views over the islands, their volcanoes and fields of lava. There was little in the way of vegetation and we were pleased to be walking before it became too hot.
When we walked back down to the waiting pangas we saw many Sally Lightfoot crabs and even noticed a seals and penguin prior to returning to Yolita. After gathering our wetsuits and snorkelling gear we were again in the pangas on our way to the beach near Pinnacle Rock. Penguins swam by and I think a turtle may have also been spotted.
The day started with a short hike to Isla Bartholomé summit with stunning views over the islands, their volcanoes and fields of lava. There was little in the way of vegetation and we were pleased to be walking before it became too hot.
When we walked back down to the waiting pangas we saw many Sally Lightfoot crabs and even noticed a seals and penguin prior to returning to Yolita. After gathering our wetsuits and snorkelling gear we were again in the pangas on our way to the beach near Pinnacle Rock. Penguins swam by and I think a turtle may have also been spotted.
View towards Santiago Island from Bartholomews Peak.
We motored over to Sullivan Bay with its massive lava field formed in the second half of the 19th century. Marine iguanas, Sally Lightfoot crabs and brown pelicans diving into the water were all about as we snokelled along the edge of the lava.
Introduced pigs, goats and donkeys have caused losses and changes to flora and fauna on Santiago Island but eradication programs now see the island clear of them. There are ongoing problems with black rats and introduced plant species.
Overnight we motored from Sullivan Beach to Puerto Villamil.
Introduced pigs, goats and donkeys have caused losses and changes to flora and fauna on Santiago Island but eradication programs now see the island clear of them. There are ongoing problems with black rats and introduced plant species.
Overnight we motored from Sullivan Beach to Puerto Villamil.
Sierra Negro volcano caldera
31 May (Day 4) - Puerto Villamil, Isabela Island
The day started with a 45 minute bus ride from the port up through the mist towards Sierra Negro volcano. Mist lifting on the green landscape as we walked the last few kilometres on the sometimes muddy track to the lookout. The view into the steep sided 10 square kilometre cauldera had mist to the left, black centre of cooled lava from the last eruption in 2005 and a ditch caused by the cooling lava around the edge. Interesting sight.
Back in town we walked through the mangroves to the beautiful clear, sandy bottomed snorkelling lagoon. A bit cold for a swim unfortunately, so on to the beachfront where sea lions ruled the benches.
The day started with a 45 minute bus ride from the port up through the mist towards Sierra Negro volcano. Mist lifting on the green landscape as we walked the last few kilometres on the sometimes muddy track to the lookout. The view into the steep sided 10 square kilometre cauldera had mist to the left, black centre of cooled lava from the last eruption in 2005 and a ditch caused by the cooling lava around the edge. Interesting sight.
Back in town we walked through the mangroves to the beautiful clear, sandy bottomed snorkelling lagoon. A bit cold for a swim unfortunately, so on to the beachfront where sea lions ruled the benches.
The best bunch to walk up to Sierra Negra Volcano with.
These guys rule the seating.
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Don't touch the iguanas.
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In the afternoon we visited the Giant Tortoise Breeding Centre just out of town. We saw various sized and aged tortoises in enclosures and also the incubation area. These tortoises dig a shallow area in the ground, lay their eggs, cover them with mud, excrete and urinate on them to keep them warm and then leave. When translocated to the incubation area the eggs must be kept at the same orientation or they will die. A little confusion at times as the spanish word tortuga covers both turtles and tortoises.
After the Breeding Centre we wandered through the adjacent wetlands seeing marine iguana, flamingoes, white cheeked pintail ducks and other birdlife. We had a chance to wander through the town before returning to the Yolita.
Overnight sail from Puerto Villamil to Elizabeth Bay.
After the Breeding Centre we wandered through the adjacent wetlands seeing marine iguana, flamingoes, white cheeked pintail ducks and other birdlife. We had a chance to wander through the town before returning to the Yolita.
Overnight sail from Puerto Villamil to Elizabeth Bay.
Our travels around the Galapagos Islands
1 June (Day 5)
Elizabeth Bay then Urbina Bay, Isabela Island
The highlights keep on coming. While in the pangas heading towards mangroves in Elizabeth Bay we saw some blue footed boobies up close along with a basking sea lion and marine iguana sharing the same rocky outcrop. Amazing to see the blue feet and everyone was snapping away on their cameras as we circled the outcrop.
Elizabeth Bay then Urbina Bay, Isabela Island
The highlights keep on coming. While in the pangas heading towards mangroves in Elizabeth Bay we saw some blue footed boobies up close along with a basking sea lion and marine iguana sharing the same rocky outcrop. Amazing to see the blue feet and everyone was snapping away on their cameras as we circled the outcrop.
Many other interesting sightings amoungst the mangroves included a group of 12 spotted eagles rays gliding by, brown pelicans, flightless cormorants, striated herons, turtles and penguins. The flightless or Galapagos cormorant is native to the Galapagos and unique in that it is the only cormorant that has lost the ability to fly.
After visiting Elizabeth Bay we motored up to Urbina Bay where we walked through some dry scrub. We came across a couple of giant tortoises and some very yellow coloured land iguanas.
After visiting Elizabeth Bay we motored up to Urbina Bay where we walked through some dry scrub. We came across a couple of giant tortoises and some very yellow coloured land iguanas.
Looking towards lava covered slopes of Darwin Volcano.
2 June (Day 6) - Targus Cove then to Punta Espinoza onto Fernandina Island
After a dry landing at Targus Cove we walked up to look out over Lake Darwin which is a salty crater lake. Beyond Lake Darwin we could see Yolita II anchored in Targus Cove. Mockingbirds and finches had made their homes in the dry bushland leading up to the lookout. Great view of the lava slopes of Mt Darwin slowly being covered by vegetation.
Our afternoon stop was Fernandina Island, the most pristine and westerly of the Galapagos Islands. The surrounding waters are the richest waters in the archipelago due to the cold, upwelling waters of the subsurface Cromwell Current and this provides prime habitat for both the flightless cormorants and Galapagos penguins. The island is also the most volcanically active and sits at the center of the hot spot that created the Galapagos Islands. The most recent eruptions were in 2005 and 2009.
We had a very exciting snorkel along the coastline with a Galapagos shark swimming passed, and green turtles very close by.
The marine iguanas nest here in the early part of the year producing some juveniles which we saw amoung the many adults. We were also lucky to see a lava snake slithering quickly across the basalt, sea lions nursing young, penguins and flightless cormorants and even a whale in the distance.
As we headed north we passed the collapsed northerwestern flanks of Ecuador Volcano which is an inactive volcano on Isabela Island. The Island was formed by the joining of six volcanoes — from north to south — Ecuador, Wolf, Darwin, Alcedo, Sierra Negra, and Cerro Azul.
3 June (Day 7) - Santiago and Rábida Islands
After a long overnight motor north around Isabela Island crossing the Equator twice, we anchored off north Santiago Island.
While in the pangas we motored towards the rugged cliffs of lava which harboured lava herons, yellow crowned herons and common noddy terns. Galapagos cacti clung to the cliffs higher up. Donning our wet suits we were treated to more excellent snorkelling. Not a lot of fish as we swam around underwater rocks and into caves where we saw a crayfish. Great to have the wetsuits which enabled us to stay in the water longer.
After a long overnight motor north around Isabela Island crossing the Equator twice, we anchored off north Santiago Island.
While in the pangas we motored towards the rugged cliffs of lava which harboured lava herons, yellow crowned herons and common noddy terns. Galapagos cacti clung to the cliffs higher up. Donning our wet suits we were treated to more excellent snorkelling. Not a lot of fish as we swam around underwater rocks and into caves where we saw a crayfish. Great to have the wetsuits which enabled us to stay in the water longer.
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Our last wet landing and chance to snorkel was on Rabida Island with its striking red sand. The water was pretty cold so after a short wander up the beach we headed back to the
Yolita II. As we motored east we saw whales, manta rays and even a mola mola (sunfish) very close to the boat. What a highlight. Then after dinner we were accompanied by several Galapagos sharks circling the boat. A sea lion was also beside us chasing schools of fish until the sharks came by when it stopped it tracks. Fortunately the sharks weren't interested in the fish or the sea lion. |
Rabida Island
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Daphne Island at dawn.
4 June - (Day 8) Around Daphne Island and then Baltra, Santa Cruz
Our last day at sea began with a colourful sunrise as we circled Daphne Island prior to returning to the pier we left 7 days ago. It was sad to leave the crew who did their best to see that we had a very enjoyable time on their amazing islands. We farewelled our knowledgeable guide Graciella at the airport.
Once again our aircraft stopped at Guayaquil before returning to Quito.
We enjoyed a very pleasant evening farewell meal with our fellow Galapagos travellers.
It was a great trip.
Our last day at sea began with a colourful sunrise as we circled Daphne Island prior to returning to the pier we left 7 days ago. It was sad to leave the crew who did their best to see that we had a very enjoyable time on their amazing islands. We farewelled our knowledgeable guide Graciella at the airport.
Once again our aircraft stopped at Guayaquil before returning to Quito.
We enjoyed a very pleasant evening farewell meal with our fellow Galapagos travellers.
It was a great trip.
The best bunch to cruise with.
Vertical sundial.
5 June Quito
We joined Fergus hiring a taxi to the Intiñan Museum just north of Quito. The museum is supposedly right on the Equator, unlike the Middle of the World Museum which was placed prior to the use of GPS and is 200 metres south of the Equator (Ecuador in Spanish). According to the GPS in our phones this museum is a little out too. The entry price included a tour in english which covered some history of the Indians of Ecuador and some of their practices including headshrinking. It was then on to the interesting vertical sundial and some dodgy experiments about water going clockwise/anticlockwise down sinkholes; balancing an egg on a nail head and walking on a line with eyes closed. Returned to a lazy afternoon and went to the artisano market where we bought the hat and bowls.
We joined Fergus hiring a taxi to the Intiñan Museum just north of Quito. The museum is supposedly right on the Equator, unlike the Middle of the World Museum which was placed prior to the use of GPS and is 200 metres south of the Equator (Ecuador in Spanish). According to the GPS in our phones this museum is a little out too. The entry price included a tour in english which covered some history of the Indians of Ecuador and some of their practices including headshrinking. It was then on to the interesting vertical sundial and some dodgy experiments about water going clockwise/anticlockwise down sinkholes; balancing an egg on a nail head and walking on a line with eyes closed. Returned to a lazy afternoon and went to the artisano market where we bought the hat and bowls.
6 June
Beautiful clear sunny day. A taxi took us up to el Panecillo for beautiful views to snow capped volcanoes around Quito. El Panecillo is a 200-metre-high hill with the 30 metre winged Virgin Mary statue made of aluminum, on a pedestal standing on top of it.
After admiring the view from all angles we drove down to the edge of the old city and then walked passed La Ronda, city museum, Church of St Francis, Carondelet Palace, Plaza de la Independencia, Metropolitan Cathedral and the Basilica which is technically unfinished. Local legend says that when the Basílica is completed, the end of the world will come. Continuing beyond the old centre we walked through the huge Parque el Ejido to our hotel opposite it.
Beautiful clear sunny day. A taxi took us up to el Panecillo for beautiful views to snow capped volcanoes around Quito. El Panecillo is a 200-metre-high hill with the 30 metre winged Virgin Mary statue made of aluminum, on a pedestal standing on top of it.
After admiring the view from all angles we drove down to the edge of the old city and then walked passed La Ronda, city museum, Church of St Francis, Carondelet Palace, Plaza de la Independencia, Metropolitan Cathedral and the Basilica which is technically unfinished. Local legend says that when the Basílica is completed, the end of the world will come. Continuing beyond the old centre we walked through the huge Parque el Ejido to our hotel opposite it.
7 June
Allowed a late check out of 2 pm we enjoyed a leisurely morning and then went for a walk at lunch time. A large crowd with ambulance and police in attendance had gathered near an ATM across the road. Had lunch and then shop. We ended up stopping at a classy local wears shop where I bought a long sleeved shirt, and 2 shawls. Quick walk around the artisan market for beaded hummingbirds but no luck. Retuned towards the hotel to find there was a growing crowd with police cordoning off the area and necessitating a walk around the block to get the hotel. We asked the concierge what was going on - two men, one woman and a knife. One mans throat was cut. Murder.
Our taxi ride to the airport was slow due to a lot of traffic and we arrived just less than 2 hours before our flight. Still fine as we only had carry-on luggage.
We had overnight flights with Avianca leaving at 18.29 from Quito to Lima, 2 hrs 10 min flight, 1 hour 20 minutes at Lima in transit and then departing about 22.10 for 4 hrs 20 min flight to Buenos Aires arriving just after 4am Buenos Aires time. Despite it being an overnight flight it was brilliant looking down over the snowcapped Andes and lakes in the almost full moon light. Very little cloud.
Allowed a late check out of 2 pm we enjoyed a leisurely morning and then went for a walk at lunch time. A large crowd with ambulance and police in attendance had gathered near an ATM across the road. Had lunch and then shop. We ended up stopping at a classy local wears shop where I bought a long sleeved shirt, and 2 shawls. Quick walk around the artisan market for beaded hummingbirds but no luck. Retuned towards the hotel to find there was a growing crowd with police cordoning off the area and necessitating a walk around the block to get the hotel. We asked the concierge what was going on - two men, one woman and a knife. One mans throat was cut. Murder.
Our taxi ride to the airport was slow due to a lot of traffic and we arrived just less than 2 hours before our flight. Still fine as we only had carry-on luggage.
We had overnight flights with Avianca leaving at 18.29 from Quito to Lima, 2 hrs 10 min flight, 1 hour 20 minutes at Lima in transit and then departing about 22.10 for 4 hrs 20 min flight to Buenos Aires arriving just after 4am Buenos Aires time. Despite it being an overnight flight it was brilliant looking down over the snowcapped Andes and lakes in the almost full moon light. Very little cloud.
