Cuba
28 October 2016 Havana
We were excited to finally be in Cuba.
The B737-800 arrived in Havana from Cancun after quite a bit of turbulence for about 20 minutes after our departure. A van taxi had been pre arranged to pick us up and take us to our homestay at Nate's Casa, a beautifully restored home in Vedado, Havana.
The afternoon was spent enjoying the local area with its Spanish buildings of which a few had been restored, admiring the cars, buses and taxis and people watching. We were about 4 kms from downtown Cuba.
We were excited to finally be in Cuba.
The B737-800 arrived in Havana from Cancun after quite a bit of turbulence for about 20 minutes after our departure. A van taxi had been pre arranged to pick us up and take us to our homestay at Nate's Casa, a beautifully restored home in Vedado, Havana.
The afternoon was spent enjoying the local area with its Spanish buildings of which a few had been restored, admiring the cars, buses and taxis and people watching. We were about 4 kms from downtown Cuba.
Hotel Nacional de Cuba
29 October Havana
During the rain in the morning we moved to the very up market Hotel Nacional de Cuba where many important people including Winston Churchill, Jimmy Carter, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Frank Sinatra, Johnny Weissmuller, Ernest Hemingway, Yuri Gagarin and scientist Alexander Fleming have stayed. It was very pleasant to wander along the Malecon watching the surf pounding over the seawall; visiting the recently reopened US Embassy and the nearby José Martí Anti-Imperialist Platform with its many flagpoles to jam any signals coming from the US Embassy in times gone by.
At dinner we met Valeri, our guide and most of our fellow travellers for the 8 day trip around Cuba. Due to a mix up when we paid the bill we quickly learnt about the two currencies in use, the CUC (Cuban Convertible Peso) pegged to the US$ and used by tourists and the CUP (Cuban Peso) used by the locals. We had a mix of currencies due to a visit to the local markets earlier. Since the CUC is worth about 25 times as much as the CUP we were soon told we hadn't paid the correct amount for our meals. The CUC notes have pictures of monuments on them whereas the CUP have pictures of people on the notes. We hadn't noticed that. Tourists usually only come in contact with CUC. The best currency to convert to CUC for us was the Euro as 10% was taken off the US$ before conversion.
During the rain in the morning we moved to the very up market Hotel Nacional de Cuba where many important people including Winston Churchill, Jimmy Carter, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Frank Sinatra, Johnny Weissmuller, Ernest Hemingway, Yuri Gagarin and scientist Alexander Fleming have stayed. It was very pleasant to wander along the Malecon watching the surf pounding over the seawall; visiting the recently reopened US Embassy and the nearby José Martí Anti-Imperialist Platform with its many flagpoles to jam any signals coming from the US Embassy in times gone by.
At dinner we met Valeri, our guide and most of our fellow travellers for the 8 day trip around Cuba. Due to a mix up when we paid the bill we quickly learnt about the two currencies in use, the CUC (Cuban Convertible Peso) pegged to the US$ and used by tourists and the CUP (Cuban Peso) used by the locals. We had a mix of currencies due to a visit to the local markets earlier. Since the CUC is worth about 25 times as much as the CUP we were soon told we hadn't paid the correct amount for our meals. The CUC notes have pictures of monuments on them whereas the CUP have pictures of people on the notes. We hadn't noticed that. Tourists usually only come in contact with CUC. The best currency to convert to CUC for us was the Euro as 10% was taken off the US$ before conversion.
30 October Havana to Vinales
After an early breakfast we were taken to downtown Havana for a walking tour of the old city. No it was not in the big yellow bus pictured above.
We were dropped off at the Plaza de Armas near the star shaped Spanish fort and the Governors Residience. Our guide was Cecilia who has a job using her history degree but does tours for a better income. From the Plaza de Armas we walked to the the Plaza de San Francisco which has the old Customs House, Stock Exchange and the concert hall that was once the Basilica and monastery of St Francis of Assisi; passed the Bodega la Caridad Consejo Popular which is the office that Cubans go to to get some very basic supplies (5 lbs rice, 5 eggs and bread) through the ration book system; the Catedral de San Cristobel, Plaza Vieja and Havana Cathedral.
After an early breakfast we were taken to downtown Havana for a walking tour of the old city. No it was not in the big yellow bus pictured above.
We were dropped off at the Plaza de Armas near the star shaped Spanish fort and the Governors Residience. Our guide was Cecilia who has a job using her history degree but does tours for a better income. From the Plaza de Armas we walked to the the Plaza de San Francisco which has the old Customs House, Stock Exchange and the concert hall that was once the Basilica and monastery of St Francis of Assisi; passed the Bodega la Caridad Consejo Popular which is the office that Cubans go to to get some very basic supplies (5 lbs rice, 5 eggs and bread) through the ration book system; the Catedral de San Cristobel, Plaza Vieja and Havana Cathedral.
After the old Havana city walking tour we boarded the minibus and drove to Orquideario Soroa stopping nearby for lunch with a view. Many locals were at the lunch stop with their beautiful old cars which provided an excellent photo opportunity.
The garden containing the orchids was excellent. Set in the cool hills with many crotons, gingers, costas, bromeliads and other tropical plants, the gardens were stunning. They were established in 1943 by a man in memory of his daughter who had died in childbirth.
The garden containing the orchids was excellent. Set in the cool hills with many crotons, gingers, costas, bromeliads and other tropical plants, the gardens were stunning. They were established in 1943 by a man in memory of his daughter who had died in childbirth.
The brightly coloured houses complete with rocking chairs in Vinales.
After one and a half hours driving through lush picturesque valleys we arrived in Vinales with its small colonial houses and rocking chairs on the verandas. There is very little if anything in the way of separate tourist accommodation and so homestays are the norm. Breakfast is included and dinner can be provideded if required. It is a wonderful way to mix and get to know the locals.
Time to check out the rocking chairs.
Returned for dinner at our homestay before driving into town to listen to a Cuban band who started playing later in the evening. They played some of their own compositions and other hits including Chan Chan by the Buena Vista Social Club. I loved watching the locals enjoying themselves and dancing the salsa.
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The five of us were all accommodated in the same house in two rooms. It was quite warm and we were grateful to have airconditioning. Our hosts were very pleasant and helpful.
In the late afteernoon we went to a hotel overlooking magotes - limestone outcrops. 
Overlooking the lush magote (limestone) landscape near Vinales.
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Tobacco, sugar cane, coffee and cassava were growing on this farm.
31 October Vinales
The day started with a drive into the lush valley to a tobacco and sugar cane farm. A demonstration of cigar making in the drying shed followed. Then time to relax and observe the workers, chickens, dogs, cat and pig on the tobacco farm which was also growing coffee, cassava and ornamental gingers.
The day started with a drive into the lush valley to a tobacco and sugar cane farm. A demonstration of cigar making in the drying shed followed. Then time to relax and observe the workers, chickens, dogs, cat and pig on the tobacco farm which was also growing coffee, cassava and ornamental gingers.
Drying shed
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A common sight in the area.
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Mural of Prehistory featuring plesiosaurus and the megalonus rodens as well as people.
From the farm we went to the Mural of Prehistory which is 120 metres high and 180 metres wide painted on the cleared slope of Dos Hermanas. It is a representation of the biological evolution of the mountains painted by local residents hanging from ropes under instructions from the Cuban artist Professor Leovigildo González below.
Further into the mountains to the Cueva del Indio we walked through a cave eventually reaching a small stream. We boarded a power boat and cruised through the caves with their stalagmites and stalactites in some interesting shapes before emerging into the daylight 400 metres downstream.
We returned to Vinales for a bit of souvenir shopping followed by a 4pm pick up to go back to the hotel in the hills for a salsa lesson. Lots of fun as we were shown three basic moves and eventually became so proficient we rotated partners.
For dinner we went to an organic farm high above the valley overlooking tobacco farms. In the terraced gardens a huge variety of fruit, vegetables and herbs were flourishing. The meal used the produce for platters of tasty vegetables, guacamole and sweet potato chips which was followed by succulent pork with crackling, chicken, fish and beef. There was a very nice coconut based cocktail served with rum on the side for the soaks, like us.
We returned to Vinales for a bit of souvenir shopping followed by a 4pm pick up to go back to the hotel in the hills for a salsa lesson. Lots of fun as we were shown three basic moves and eventually became so proficient we rotated partners.
For dinner we went to an organic farm high above the valley overlooking tobacco farms. In the terraced gardens a huge variety of fruit, vegetables and herbs were flourishing. The meal used the produce for platters of tasty vegetables, guacamole and sweet potato chips which was followed by succulent pork with crackling, chicken, fish and beef. There was a very nice coconut based cocktail served with rum on the side for the soaks, like us.
Scenes from Vinales
1 November Vinales to Trinidad
A big day with over 400kms to drive. We wound our way through the forest covered mountains to the main road and back to Cuba and then headed south east through Cienfuegos to Trinidad. During the trip Valerie gave us an informative history lesson.
After Columbus' arrival in 1492, the island was invaded by the Spaniards with all aboriginal groups being killed by fighting or disease. Cuba became a Spanish colony. In 1762, Havana was briefly occupied by Great Britain, before being returned to Spain in exchange for Florida. A series of rebellions during the 19th century failed to end Spanish rule until the Spanish-American War resulted in a Spanish withdrawal in 1898. After three and a half years of US military rule, Cuba gained formal independence in 1902. However, from 1902–1932 Cuban and United States law included the Platt Amendment, which guaranteed the US right to intervene in Cuba and placed restrictions on Cuban foreign relations. In 1934, Cuba and the United States signed the Treaty of Relations in which Cuba was obligated to give preferential treatment of its economy to the United States, in exchange the United States gave Cuba a guaranteed 22 percent share of the US sugar market that later was amended to a 49 percent share in 1949
In the years following its independence, the Cuban republic saw significant economic development, but also political corruption and a succession of despotic leaders, culminating in the overthrow of the dictator Batista led by Fidal and Raul Castro Ruz, during the 1953–59 Cuban Revolution. Cuba has since been governed as a socialist state by the Communist Party under the leadership of the Castro brothers. The country has been politically and socially isolated by the USA since the Revolution, but has gradually gained access to foreign commerce and diplomatic relations. Domestic economic reforms are also beginning to modernize Cuba's socialist economy.
A big day with over 400kms to drive. We wound our way through the forest covered mountains to the main road and back to Cuba and then headed south east through Cienfuegos to Trinidad. During the trip Valerie gave us an informative history lesson.
After Columbus' arrival in 1492, the island was invaded by the Spaniards with all aboriginal groups being killed by fighting or disease. Cuba became a Spanish colony. In 1762, Havana was briefly occupied by Great Britain, before being returned to Spain in exchange for Florida. A series of rebellions during the 19th century failed to end Spanish rule until the Spanish-American War resulted in a Spanish withdrawal in 1898. After three and a half years of US military rule, Cuba gained formal independence in 1902. However, from 1902–1932 Cuban and United States law included the Platt Amendment, which guaranteed the US right to intervene in Cuba and placed restrictions on Cuban foreign relations. In 1934, Cuba and the United States signed the Treaty of Relations in which Cuba was obligated to give preferential treatment of its economy to the United States, in exchange the United States gave Cuba a guaranteed 22 percent share of the US sugar market that later was amended to a 49 percent share in 1949
In the years following its independence, the Cuban republic saw significant economic development, but also political corruption and a succession of despotic leaders, culminating in the overthrow of the dictator Batista led by Fidal and Raul Castro Ruz, during the 1953–59 Cuban Revolution. Cuba has since been governed as a socialist state by the Communist Party under the leadership of the Castro brothers. The country has been politically and socially isolated by the USA since the Revolution, but has gradually gained access to foreign commerce and diplomatic relations. Domestic economic reforms are also beginning to modernize Cuba's socialist economy.
We stopped at a small roadside eating place for lunch. Old cars in the garage, a few dogs about and a beast was being cut up under a tree out the back. Nearby the women were cooking in an open kitchen.
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Old bike in the shed of the Australia sugar plantation.
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After lunch we had a surprise stop in Australia - a village founded in 1862 in a sugar growing area and dominated by the old, out-of-service sugar factory's chimney, with "Australia" written prominently down its length. The village is named after the factory, the Central Australia, which like others in the area were named after continents.
Finally we arrived in Trinidad climbing the steep narrow cobblestone streets in the bus to drop everyone off at their various homestays.
Later Valeri led us on a short walk to the central town square. We look forward to seeing more of the UNESCO world heritage listed town tomorrow.
Finally we arrived in Trinidad climbing the steep narrow cobblestone streets in the bus to drop everyone off at their various homestays.
Later Valeri led us on a short walk to the central town square. We look forward to seeing more of the UNESCO world heritage listed town tomorrow.
2 November Trinidad
Free time for most of the day and so we booked a Cuban music lesson for an hour in the morning. Lots of fun as we were taught a basic Cuban rhythm on the drums, maracas, bongos and sticks by a couple of local musicians.
We wandered around town passing various handicraft stores, photographing old cars and street scenes before changing money at the bank. Our next stop was the Revolutionary Museum and its bell tower.
Free time for most of the day and so we booked a Cuban music lesson for an hour in the morning. Lots of fun as we were taught a basic Cuban rhythm on the drums, maracas, bongos and sticks by a couple of local musicians.
We wandered around town passing various handicraft stores, photographing old cars and street scenes before changing money at the bank. Our next stop was the Revolutionary Museum and its bell tower.
In the late afternoon we met the rest of the group and our guide at the Plaza Mayor for a short walking tour of Trinidad. The main stop was at the Santeria Yemaya Temple, a temple to the Goddess of the Sea. A sharman spoke about the Afro Cuban religion.
We walked past the History Museum and the Beatles Bar on the way to meet our mini-bus for the drive south to the Ancon Peninsula. We swam in the salty Caribbean, walked up on the sand and over the white coral to watch a beautiful sunset and enjoy a canchanchera. A fabulous meal to enjoy in the cool evening had been organised by our guide and driver. Unfortunately the mosquitoes were also out to enjoy the evening and so we left after dinner.
We walked past the History Museum and the Beatles Bar on the way to meet our mini-bus for the drive south to the Ancon Peninsula. We swam in the salty Caribbean, walked up on the sand and over the white coral to watch a beautiful sunset and enjoy a canchanchera. A fabulous meal to enjoy in the cool evening had been organised by our guide and driver. Unfortunately the mosquitoes were also out to enjoy the evening and so we left after dinner.
3 November Cienfuegos
From Trinidad we drove east in the Valle de los Igenious (or Valley of the Sugar Mills) to the Manaca-Iznaga Tower. We were able to climb to the top of the 7 storied tower from where there had been continuous monitoring of the slaves in the sugar plantations. The bell that formerly hung from the tower rang to mark the beginning and end of the work day, fire or slave escape.
From Trinidad we drove east in the Valle de los Igenious (or Valley of the Sugar Mills) to the Manaca-Iznaga Tower. We were able to climb to the top of the 7 storied tower from where there had been continuous monitoring of the slaves in the sugar plantations. The bell that formerly hung from the tower rang to mark the beginning and end of the work day, fire or slave escape.
Linen handicraft for sale on the way to the Manaca-Iznaga tower.
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Road through the Valley de los Ingenios.
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Valeri continued our history lesson, this time on Che Guevara, as we were on the way to Santa Clara where the Che Guevara mausoleum is. It is the site of one of his decisive battles leading to the final victory of the revolution soon after.
As a young Argentinian medical student, Guevara traveled throughout South America and was radicalized by the poverty, hunger and disease he witnessed. He met Fidel in Mexico. With similar ideals they teamed up and planned together with a few others. 82 revolutionaries came over on the boat in Nov 56 but the plan went astray and they dispersed. 12 met up and Fidel decided that was enough to continue so they did. Lots of local support followed and by early 1959 they had won. Baptista had fled to Dominican Repluclic with a lot of Cuban pesos. Che stayed for 10 years and had 4 children with his second wife, another of the revolutionaries, taking on lots of different ministerial roles and overseas envoy positions. Eventually he felt called to continue the fight to help others achieve independence. He tried Belgium Congo first but this was too disorganised so he went to Bolivia with 27 others, but they were discovered (CIA?), and killed over 2 days. They were buried in a mass grave and only recently has the Cuban government been allowed to repatriate their bodies. The mausoleum has bas reliefs of all the revolutionaries. The museum has more stories, lots of photos and some old clothes, berets, guns, medical equipment etc mostly belonging to Che.
The memorial is a very busy place. Cameras and bags are not allowed inside.
As a young Argentinian medical student, Guevara traveled throughout South America and was radicalized by the poverty, hunger and disease he witnessed. He met Fidel in Mexico. With similar ideals they teamed up and planned together with a few others. 82 revolutionaries came over on the boat in Nov 56 but the plan went astray and they dispersed. 12 met up and Fidel decided that was enough to continue so they did. Lots of local support followed and by early 1959 they had won. Baptista had fled to Dominican Repluclic with a lot of Cuban pesos. Che stayed for 10 years and had 4 children with his second wife, another of the revolutionaries, taking on lots of different ministerial roles and overseas envoy positions. Eventually he felt called to continue the fight to help others achieve independence. He tried Belgium Congo first but this was too disorganised so he went to Bolivia with 27 others, but they were discovered (CIA?), and killed over 2 days. They were buried in a mass grave and only recently has the Cuban government been allowed to repatriate their bodies. The mausoleum has bas reliefs of all the revolutionaries. The museum has more stories, lots of photos and some old clothes, berets, guns, medical equipment etc mostly belonging to Che.
The memorial is a very busy place. Cameras and bags are not allowed inside.
We arrived in Cienfuegos after lunch and went for a walk around the town centre. I particularly liked the theatre but there were many other well maintained buidings to see.
In the late afternoon we were taken to the stunning Palacio de Valle on Punta Gorda.
In the late afternoon we were taken to the stunning Palacio de Valle on Punta Gorda.
The Palacio de Valle is of Spanish-Moorish influences with Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque and Mudejar periods. The craftsmanship is superb with experts from many countries involved. Quality materials include marble from Carrara, Italian alabaster and Spanish ironwork. It was a beautiful place to walk through and a Cuban band playing on the roof finished it off nicely.
Group photo on the steps to the Palacio de Ville.
Great music at the Palacio de Ville.
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Great dancing at the Yacht Club.
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Looking back at Club Cienfuegos, the yacht club at sunset.
Friday 4 November Cienfuegos to Havana
We arrived in Havana before lunch to find that we had been bumped out of the Hotel Nacional de Cuba to the Hotel Riviera which is a little further out of town but upmarket. Celebration champagne for the whole crew was very nice.
After finding the DHL office Nita and I walked through a beautiful park with huge fig trees and neighbourhoods of differing wealth to the Colon Cemetry. Through the grand entrance we could see down the main tree lined avenue to the picturesque Central Chapel. There were some impressive, elaborately sculptured memorials but there were also many ruined memorials and private chapels. These are the tombs of exiled families unable to return to care for their dead. As space is at a premium, remains are removed from their tombs after three years and placed in an ossuary.
I had wanted to see the Che Guevera ironwork sculpture on the side of a building, so Maree and I set off in that direction. Along the way we passed the 109 metre high José Martí memorial with a statue of José Martí nearby. It faced on to Revolution Square along with the Ministry of Interior building which has the steel outline of Che Guevara and the Ministry of Information and Communication which has the steel outline of Cienfuegos, also a revolutionary.
We passed a busy baseball field on our return via the tree lined Paseo with its well kept graceful old houses and gardens.
The tour company paid for a dinner for all of us because of the downgraded hotel which I felt was actually nicer than the Hotel Nacional.
We arrived in Havana before lunch to find that we had been bumped out of the Hotel Nacional de Cuba to the Hotel Riviera which is a little further out of town but upmarket. Celebration champagne for the whole crew was very nice.
After finding the DHL office Nita and I walked through a beautiful park with huge fig trees and neighbourhoods of differing wealth to the Colon Cemetry. Through the grand entrance we could see down the main tree lined avenue to the picturesque Central Chapel. There were some impressive, elaborately sculptured memorials but there were also many ruined memorials and private chapels. These are the tombs of exiled families unable to return to care for their dead. As space is at a premium, remains are removed from their tombs after three years and placed in an ossuary.
I had wanted to see the Che Guevera ironwork sculpture on the side of a building, so Maree and I set off in that direction. Along the way we passed the 109 metre high José Martí memorial with a statue of José Martí nearby. It faced on to Revolution Square along with the Ministry of Interior building which has the steel outline of Che Guevara and the Ministry of Information and Communication which has the steel outline of Cienfuegos, also a revolutionary.
We passed a busy baseball field on our return via the tree lined Paseo with its well kept graceful old houses and gardens.
The tour company paid for a dinner for all of us because of the downgraded hotel which I felt was actually nicer than the Hotel Nacional.
Our driver Alberto looking very cool in his panama hat.
5 November
After breakfast and farewells with the rest of the group, we finally had time for a drive in a convertible. We checked out the cars, making the most of photo opportunities and finally settled on a 1960 red Buick Electra owned and driven by Alberto. The poor guy probably wondered what happened when the five of us descended on him.
For our one hour drive we had decided to go west to the Jaimanitas region which has been 'enhanced' by the work of a committed mosaic artist called Fuster. Mr Fuster began his work in Jaimanitas in 1995, starting on his own home and then spreading to neighbours, various buildings even bus stops. It is pleasant to walk around and see just how much he has done and still continues.
We returned to the Riviera and moved from our hotel to the homestay Casa Azul in a taxi. It is close to our first homestay but nowhere near as classy although it was very friendly and the house was neat and clean. The rooms had airconditioning which was welcome.
After breakfast and farewells with the rest of the group, we finally had time for a drive in a convertible. We checked out the cars, making the most of photo opportunities and finally settled on a 1960 red Buick Electra owned and driven by Alberto. The poor guy probably wondered what happened when the five of us descended on him.
For our one hour drive we had decided to go west to the Jaimanitas region which has been 'enhanced' by the work of a committed mosaic artist called Fuster. Mr Fuster began his work in Jaimanitas in 1995, starting on his own home and then spreading to neighbours, various buildings even bus stops. It is pleasant to walk around and see just how much he has done and still continues.
We returned to the Riviera and moved from our hotel to the homestay Casa Azul in a taxi. It is close to our first homestay but nowhere near as classy although it was very friendly and the house was neat and clean. The rooms had airconditioning which was welcome.
On our last afternoon in Cuba we walked over 5 kms into town to the Paseo del Prado - an interesting walk along narrow streets through many districts as people went about their Saturday afternoon. We eventually came to El Capitolio (home of the Cuban Academy of Sciences), the Gran Teatro de la Habana (home of the Cuban National Ballet) and Hotel Inglaterra where we enjoyed a coffee to some live Cuban music while watching the passing parade.
Recharged we continued down Paseo Prado. Lining the boulevard are once grand buildings imitating styles from Madrid, Paris and Vienna. A raised central pedestrian walkway is lined with stalls. In the 50s many rich families left the Prado for suburbs a little further out, and after the revolution buildings fell into further disrepair even collapsing. Some are now being restored.
Recharged we continued down Paseo Prado. Lining the boulevard are once grand buildings imitating styles from Madrid, Paris and Vienna. A raised central pedestrian walkway is lined with stalls. In the 50s many rich families left the Prado for suburbs a little further out, and after the revolution buildings fell into further disrepair even collapsing. Some are now being restored.
Sunday 6 November
Maree and I went for an early morning walk along the windy Malecon ocean drive towards the centre of town to see the Primavera which we had noticed yesterday while in the coco-taxi.
The Primavera by Cuban sculptur, Rafael San Juan is a tribute to Cuban women completed in 2015 for the 12th Havana Biennale. The piece was inspired by the movement and spirit of Cuban National Ballet dancer Viengsay Valdés with a bunch of mariposas, the country’s national flower, forming the Primaveras hair. It is eight meters high and made of recycled steel.
Maree and I went for an early morning walk along the windy Malecon ocean drive towards the centre of town to see the Primavera which we had noticed yesterday while in the coco-taxi.
The Primavera by Cuban sculptur, Rafael San Juan is a tribute to Cuban women completed in 2015 for the 12th Havana Biennale. The piece was inspired by the movement and spirit of Cuban National Ballet dancer Viengsay Valdés with a bunch of mariposas, the country’s national flower, forming the Primaveras hair. It is eight meters high and made of recycled steel.
Primavera
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It was a pleasant but windy walk passing several parks and monuments along the waterfront. We saw people fishing or simply out for a Sunday morning walk in the very fresh air. We returned to our homestay just in time to be loaded on to our minibus to the airport for our flight to Cancun in Mexico.
Thank you Lynne, Deb, Maree and Nita for a fabulous time and sharing your photos for this..