Argentina
Saturday 15 December 2017
A delayed flight on Air New Zealand saw us arriving in Buenos Aires at 1.15am, nearly 10 hours late. We have the weekend to get to the truck, sort things out, catch up on sleep and work out a plan reference truck maintenance and picking up the new solar panels.
A delayed flight on Air New Zealand saw us arriving in Buenos Aires at 1.15am, nearly 10 hours late. We have the weekend to get to the truck, sort things out, catch up on sleep and work out a plan reference truck maintenance and picking up the new solar panels.
16 - 21 December
Last time we were in Buenos Aires we were fortunate to come across Solartec who have been extremely helpful providing information and support to us. We had ordered panels from them while in Australia and picked them up ready to be fixed to the roof by Guy. Solar panels are more expensive and not as common in Argentina as they are in Australia. Other forms of energy are cheaper for Argentinians and it is mostly locations 'off the grid' that use solar but times are changing.
Unfortunately it rained the next day and Guy was unable to do much in the way of removing the old disfunctional panels for which we had received a refund. But we were able to have the suspension seen to by a very obliging local workshop, Paraguayo who were keen to help and did not want to charge us despite an hour or two of labour.
Two days and Guy had the old solar panels removed, cleaned off and the new rigid panels fixed on, we hope.
Last time we were in Buenos Aires we were fortunate to come across Solartec who have been extremely helpful providing information and support to us. We had ordered panels from them while in Australia and picked them up ready to be fixed to the roof by Guy. Solar panels are more expensive and not as common in Argentina as they are in Australia. Other forms of energy are cheaper for Argentinians and it is mostly locations 'off the grid' that use solar but times are changing.
Unfortunately it rained the next day and Guy was unable to do much in the way of removing the old disfunctional panels for which we had received a refund. But we were able to have the suspension seen to by a very obliging local workshop, Paraguayo who were keen to help and did not want to charge us despite an hour or two of labour.
Two days and Guy had the old solar panels removed, cleaned off and the new rigid panels fixed on, we hope.
Close up of Medalla Milagrosa as we move along the Buenos Aires motorway.
22 December
Terrible traffic as a result of an earlier rollover made us over an hour late at Solartec. Ariel did his job connecting the solar panels up only to learn that a new regulator was needed. We were given one which was fitted quickly and now it is all systems go. Off around Buenos Aires and then south on ruta 36 towards the Rio de la Plata spotting a few roseate spoonbills and other birds along the way.
Our first free camp, a bit close to the road but a cover of trees and scrub kept us hidden from the road we thought, until the police came to tell us about an approaching storm.
Terrible traffic as a result of an earlier rollover made us over an hour late at Solartec. Ariel did his job connecting the solar panels up only to learn that a new regulator was needed. We were given one which was fitted quickly and now it is all systems go. Off around Buenos Aires and then south on ruta 36 towards the Rio de la Plata spotting a few roseate spoonbills and other birds along the way.
Our first free camp, a bit close to the road but a cover of trees and scrub kept us hidden from the road we thought, until the police came to tell us about an approaching storm.
23 December
San Clemente, a rather rundown holiday town on the Atlantic at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata was our next stop on the way to Mar del Plata. Not many people on the windy beach but they were all out shopping, eating and enjoying the evening in the main street of the town after siesta until 10pm or so. People were happy but there was no Christmas music, Santas about, decorations or flashing lights. Quite different.
San Clemente, a rather rundown holiday town on the Atlantic at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata was our next stop on the way to Mar del Plata. Not many people on the windy beach but they were all out shopping, eating and enjoying the evening in the main street of the town after siesta until 10pm or so. People were happy but there was no Christmas music, Santas about, decorations or flashing lights. Quite different.
Antonio and Guy checking the barbecue
24, 25 December Christmas with Judith and Antonio in Mar del Plata
We checked out the Punta Rasa wildlife area at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata and then drove along the coast to Mar del Plata, the main holiday resort on the Atlantic coast.
Very happy to see Judith and Antonio again. They made us very welcome and cooked a special dinner for us - argentino asado! The asado takes a couple of hours to cook which gave us time to talk and relax although for Judith it meant a lot of translating for which we are grateful. Antonio’s son Rodrigo joined us. Judith made a Russian salad and a rocket salad and Antonio brought the chorizo in first while the beef cooked a little longer. The meat was very tasty and succulent, better than we had tasted in a restaurant. This was followed up by fresh fruit salad and just before midnight, mantecol, a kind of peanut halva and other sweet nibbles were brought out and chin chin – a toast as midnight struck and firecrackers went off all around. What a night!
We checked out the Punta Rasa wildlife area at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata and then drove along the coast to Mar del Plata, the main holiday resort on the Atlantic coast.
Very happy to see Judith and Antonio again. They made us very welcome and cooked a special dinner for us - argentino asado! The asado takes a couple of hours to cook which gave us time to talk and relax although for Judith it meant a lot of translating for which we are grateful. Antonio’s son Rodrigo joined us. Judith made a Russian salad and a rocket salad and Antonio brought the chorizo in first while the beef cooked a little longer. The meat was very tasty and succulent, better than we had tasted in a restaurant. This was followed up by fresh fruit salad and just before midnight, mantecol, a kind of peanut halva and other sweet nibbles were brought out and chin chin – a toast as midnight struck and firecrackers went off all around. What a night!
Our wonderful hosts Antonio and Judith.
A sleep in was required on Christmas morning before panettone, coffee and mate were enjoyed for breakfast. We were given a puzzle made by Antonio of 6 different timbers which I am still trying to get back together.
On our way to a picnic at Laguna de los Padres we dropped in to see Antonio’s carpentry workshop. Antonio is a craftsman who loves working with timber and we saw some of the jobs he is working on. He presented us with a beautiful handmade coat/hat rack.
The picnic amongst trees at Laguna de los Padres west of Mar del Plata was very pleasant and relaxing. On our way home from the picnic we drove along the busy touristy beaches at Mar del Plata. We passed the Naval base where the submarine which disappeared a month ago would have docked for Christmas but instead many flags now hung in sad memory of lives lost. Around the port entrance we saw many male sea lions, some quite large before returning home.
On our way to a picnic at Laguna de los Padres we dropped in to see Antonio’s carpentry workshop. Antonio is a craftsman who loves working with timber and we saw some of the jobs he is working on. He presented us with a beautiful handmade coat/hat rack.
The picnic amongst trees at Laguna de los Padres west of Mar del Plata was very pleasant and relaxing. On our way home from the picnic we drove along the busy touristy beaches at Mar del Plata. We passed the Naval base where the submarine which disappeared a month ago would have docked for Christmas but instead many flags now hung in sad memory of lives lost. Around the port entrance we saw many male sea lions, some quite large before returning home.
26 December
Sadly we farewelled Judith and Antonio for the long drive south.
Late in the afternoon of the 550 kms drive we stopped at the first of three fruit, vegetable and meat quarantine check point just west of Bahia Blanca. We had stopped earlier to cook up all our meat and vegetables so there was nothing fresh. After paying the compulsory fee of 70 Argentine pesos, AU$5, we were allowed through. It was about fruit fly as well as foot and mouth disease prevention.
We camped among gum trees a little further on.
Sadly we farewelled Judith and Antonio for the long drive south.
Late in the afternoon of the 550 kms drive we stopped at the first of three fruit, vegetable and meat quarantine check point just west of Bahia Blanca. We had stopped earlier to cook up all our meat and vegetables so there was nothing fresh. After paying the compulsory fee of 70 Argentine pesos, AU$5, we were allowed through. It was about fruit fly as well as foot and mouth disease prevention.
We camped among gum trees a little further on.
Farewell to Mar del Plata.
Ground burrowing parrots around El Condor
27, 28 December
After a shorter day of driving we arrived in El Condor to see the ground burrowing parrots – tens of thousands of them nesting in the sandstone cliffs for about 10 kms.
The countryside was very flat, dry and dusty with scrubby bushes and grasses and beautiful sunsets, all very similar to home. The road deteriorated along the coast passing dusty La Loberia before turning to the Punta Bermeja conservation area with its very large sea lion colony and elephant seals. Searching with our binoculars we couldn't see any elephant seals amoungst the thousands of sea lions and their pups, maybe next place.
The track was covered in sand in places and 4WD was required but we eventually found a camp off the roadside heading toward San Antonio Oeste.
The wind is ever present but the temperatures have been surprisingly warm.
After a shorter day of driving we arrived in El Condor to see the ground burrowing parrots – tens of thousands of them nesting in the sandstone cliffs for about 10 kms.
The countryside was very flat, dry and dusty with scrubby bushes and grasses and beautiful sunsets, all very similar to home. The road deteriorated along the coast passing dusty La Loberia before turning to the Punta Bermeja conservation area with its very large sea lion colony and elephant seals. Searching with our binoculars we couldn't see any elephant seals amoungst the thousands of sea lions and their pups, maybe next place.
The track was covered in sand in places and 4WD was required but we eventually found a camp off the roadside heading toward San Antonio Oeste.
The wind is ever present but the temperatures have been surprisingly warm.
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We passed a few people fishing on the wide open beaches although some men had cast their lines in and walked 50 metres back across the beach, climbed up a steep 30m high embankment to perch next to the esky. I don't know if they would feel a fish bite from that distance and if they did, it would then be dragged up the beach and the embankment!
Fishing from a distance.
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Guy watched a vixen and her 3 kits near our camp in the morning.
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29, 30 December
We were heading to the Valdez Peninsula which we had been looking forward to. Unfortunately we are out of season to see the orcas beaching themselves in order to get tasty morsels of sea lion pups or penguins and so decide to head further south where we will see similar wildlife. It is also peak season and many Argentines are on annual holidays so we think Valdez Peninsula will be busy.
Through Puerto Madryn where there was a cruise ship docked and along the coast around to Punta Ninfas, the headland passed when coming into Puerto Madryn by ship. After almost driving over a large hairy armadillo we drove on to spectacular views over the high sandstone cliffs to the Atlantic. We only saw three other people who were down on the beach. Not feeling up to a steep descent and a rope ladder to get down to the sea lions on the beach we opted to look at the view from above where we were thrilled to see four or five orcas cruising along the coastline. Although there were sea lions on the beaches I guess they were inaccessible to the orcas for now.
We were heading to the Valdez Peninsula which we had been looking forward to. Unfortunately we are out of season to see the orcas beaching themselves in order to get tasty morsels of sea lion pups or penguins and so decide to head further south where we will see similar wildlife. It is also peak season and many Argentines are on annual holidays so we think Valdez Peninsula will be busy.
Through Puerto Madryn where there was a cruise ship docked and along the coast around to Punta Ninfas, the headland passed when coming into Puerto Madryn by ship. After almost driving over a large hairy armadillo we drove on to spectacular views over the high sandstone cliffs to the Atlantic. We only saw three other people who were down on the beach. Not feeling up to a steep descent and a rope ladder to get down to the sea lions on the beach we opted to look at the view from above where we were thrilled to see four or five orcas cruising along the coastline. Although there were sea lions on the beaches I guess they were inaccessible to the orcas for now.
31 December 2017
On the road west from Punta Ninfas we saw a peregrine falcon, a small mouse, many guanaco and European hares although we had hoped to see mara, the Patagonian hare. Our destination was Gaiman for a Welsh cream tea. Many Welsh people settled in the area about 150 years ago and although the language is spanish some Welsh traditions have been carried on.
New Years Eve spent quietly at a servo with excellent internet.
On the road west from Punta Ninfas we saw a peregrine falcon, a small mouse, many guanaco and European hares although we had hoped to see mara, the Patagonian hare. Our destination was Gaiman for a Welsh cream tea. Many Welsh people settled in the area about 150 years ago and although the language is spanish some Welsh traditions have been carried on.
New Years Eve spent quietly at a servo with excellent internet.
Happy New Year from South America!
Adult penguin striding past Guy on the boardwalk towards its nest.
1 January 2018
From our salubrious campsite we headed south to Punta Tombo to see the largest colony of magellanic penguins in the world. Only about 140 kms and that was mostly on sealed road with the ever present Patagonian wind which is seldom behind us. Dry countryside with no trees, just low scrubby bushes.
Rather expensive to enter the conservation area for non locals (AU$24) whereas locals pay less than half that - but we have travelled all this way. A small museum was informative and partly in english and there was a restaurant with a pleasant outlook over the bay. After purchasing the tickets we drove down to the boardwalk area.
No sooner had we entered than we saw penguins, many with chicks in nests built under bushes or in burrows.
The penguins return from southern Brazil in September with the male reclaiming his burrow from the previous year and waiting to reconnect with his female partner. Magellanic penguins are monogamous. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone.
Two eggs are laid. Incubation lasts about 40 days, a task which the parents share. After hatching the chicks are cared for by both parents and fed daily for 30 days and less frequently after that until fledging at 9 - 17 weeks depending on food availability.
From our salubrious campsite we headed south to Punta Tombo to see the largest colony of magellanic penguins in the world. Only about 140 kms and that was mostly on sealed road with the ever present Patagonian wind which is seldom behind us. Dry countryside with no trees, just low scrubby bushes.
Rather expensive to enter the conservation area for non locals (AU$24) whereas locals pay less than half that - but we have travelled all this way. A small museum was informative and partly in english and there was a restaurant with a pleasant outlook over the bay. After purchasing the tickets we drove down to the boardwalk area.
No sooner had we entered than we saw penguins, many with chicks in nests built under bushes or in burrows.
The penguins return from southern Brazil in September with the male reclaiming his burrow from the previous year and waiting to reconnect with his female partner. Magellanic penguins are monogamous. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone.
Two eggs are laid. Incubation lasts about 40 days, a task which the parents share. After hatching the chicks are cared for by both parents and fed daily for 30 days and less frequently after that until fledging at 9 - 17 weeks depending on food availability.
Elegant crested tinamou skurried across the road.
2, 3 January - Punta Tombo to Puerto Deseado
We spent two days getting down to Puerto Deseado where we camped for two nights. The countryside continued to be dry and flat, huge estancias running mainly sheep with wild guanaco, the predecessor to llama, amongst them. Elegant crested tinamou bustled across the road in front of us as did the occasional group of lesser rheas. We often only saw a handful of other cars, 4WD, on the gravel roads in a days driving.
Bush camps were a bit open to the wind although a gravel pit was an interesting change below the wind and road.
We spent two days getting down to Puerto Deseado where we camped for two nights. The countryside continued to be dry and flat, huge estancias running mainly sheep with wild guanaco, the predecessor to llama, amongst them. Elegant crested tinamou bustled across the road in front of us as did the occasional group of lesser rheas. We often only saw a handful of other cars, 4WD, on the gravel roads in a days driving.
Bush camps were a bit open to the wind although a gravel pit was an interesting change below the wind and road.
4 January - Puerto Deseado
In the afternoon we did a trip in a motor boat along the Deseado River for 2.5 hours slowing as the black and white Commerson's dolphins swam curiously around us, and once again when we viewed Magellanic penguins fom the water. As we passed some steep rocky cliffs we saw red-legged cormorants and rock cormorants with chicks in the nests on the tiny rock ledges. One unlucky fluffy chick had fallen onto a lower ledge and was unable to get back up and too fluffy to fly or swim. Further upstream were imperial cormorants with their beautiful dark blue eyes, kelp gulls and dolphin gulls also with their chicks. A huge male sea lion dominated an island with his harem. Also on the island were three different types of terns mingling together, gulls and brown skuas. An island of nesting magellanic penguins and other ground nesting birds was nearby.
On our return we briefly saw a couple of Chilean dolphins that are small and grey with white underneath and a rounded dorsal fin.
In the afternoon we did a trip in a motor boat along the Deseado River for 2.5 hours slowing as the black and white Commerson's dolphins swam curiously around us, and once again when we viewed Magellanic penguins fom the water. As we passed some steep rocky cliffs we saw red-legged cormorants and rock cormorants with chicks in the nests on the tiny rock ledges. One unlucky fluffy chick had fallen onto a lower ledge and was unable to get back up and too fluffy to fly or swim. Further upstream were imperial cormorants with their beautiful dark blue eyes, kelp gulls and dolphin gulls also with their chicks. A huge male sea lion dominated an island with his harem. Also on the island were three different types of terns mingling together, gulls and brown skuas. An island of nesting magellanic penguins and other ground nesting birds was nearby.
On our return we briefly saw a couple of Chilean dolphins that are small and grey with white underneath and a rounded dorsal fin.
5 - 7 January - Puerto Deseado to Puerto San Julian and Santa Cruz River
We were advised to return to the RN3 via the sealed road which meant backtracking 120kms. Once back on the RN3 we decided to make a 50km detour west to see the petrified forest (Parque Nacional Bosques Petrificados de Jaramillo).
150 million years ago prior to the existence of the Andes the area had been covered in forest with moisture coming from the Pacific. Due to volcanic activity the forest was covered in volcanic ash which assisted by rain enabled the petrification process to take place. Now the petrified trees which were up to 50 metres tall are being uncovered in this very dry, windblown landscape. Even so there were a few small lakes with Chilean flamingos occassionally in them.
We were advised to return to the RN3 via the sealed road which meant backtracking 120kms. Once back on the RN3 we decided to make a 50km detour west to see the petrified forest (Parque Nacional Bosques Petrificados de Jaramillo).
150 million years ago prior to the existence of the Andes the area had been covered in forest with moisture coming from the Pacific. Due to volcanic activity the forest was covered in volcanic ash which assisted by rain enabled the petrification process to take place. Now the petrified trees which were up to 50 metres tall are being uncovered in this very dry, windblown landscape. Even so there were a few small lakes with Chilean flamingos occassionally in them.
Driving into the Parque Nacional Bosques Petrificados de Jaramillo.
After that interesting side trip we journeyed on to Puerto San Julian, the site of Magellans landing in 1520. Two months after leaving Magellan found the eastern entrance to Magellan Strait. Drake arrived 58 years later and also wintered over. A young Darwin arrived on the Beagle under Captain FitzRoy in 1834 and explored the local geology, finding fossils of pieces of spine and leg of a creature resembling a llama and a camel.
The area was settled by British sheep farmers in the late 19th century. Ironically Puerto San Julio was an important airfield for the Argentines during the Falklands War.
The area was settled by British sheep farmers in the late 19th century. Ironically Puerto San Julio was an important airfield for the Argentines during the Falklands War.
Coastline north of Puerto San Julian.
Malvinas (Falklands) Memorial with 3 ships painted on the side. Strikes.
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This is a 1:1 reconstruction of the Nao Victoria, Magellans ship. Incredible that someone could sail over vast oceans in this tiny vessel!
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Tres Lagos service station owner.
8 January Santa Cruz River to Tres Lago
Refreshed after 2 nights in the one place to enjoy some downtime, catch up on routine maintenance and some washing in the swift running river which was too cold to swim in, had no eddies for fishing in but fine for rinsing clothes.
Travelling west into the very strong Patagonian headwinds on dusty, slow going, gravel roads was not enjoyable. To add to that we were concerned about the engine coolant not circulating through the camper system and then found there was excess coolant overflowing from the tank, so a few stops were made. It took us about 5 hours to cross to Tres Lagos in the middle of nowhere when we were stopped at a police check point. They only wanted to see the drivers ID – Guy’s Queensland driver’s licence was sufficient, and then happily waved us on. After picking up some bread rolls and pastries from the local panaderia we drove just out of town to Ruta 40 and stopped at the servo, a small family run cash only business. It would be a hard life out here but many travellers stopped in for fuel. Decided to stay the night and tilt the cab in the morning to check the oil and radiator.
Refreshed after 2 nights in the one place to enjoy some downtime, catch up on routine maintenance and some washing in the swift running river which was too cold to swim in, had no eddies for fishing in but fine for rinsing clothes.
Travelling west into the very strong Patagonian headwinds on dusty, slow going, gravel roads was not enjoyable. To add to that we were concerned about the engine coolant not circulating through the camper system and then found there was excess coolant overflowing from the tank, so a few stops were made. It took us about 5 hours to cross to Tres Lagos in the middle of nowhere when we were stopped at a police check point. They only wanted to see the drivers ID – Guy’s Queensland driver’s licence was sufficient, and then happily waved us on. After picking up some bread rolls and pastries from the local panaderia we drove just out of town to Ruta 40 and stopped at the servo, a small family run cash only business. It would be a hard life out here but many travellers stopped in for fuel. Decided to stay the night and tilt the cab in the morning to check the oil and radiator.
A happy ending to our coolant problem.
9 January Tres Lagos to El Chalten
Tilted the cab but everything appeared normal. Guy went to inflate the tyres using the truck compressor. Nothing. Then he remembered that the compressor is on the same circuit as the 24V cab supply. Checked the circuit breaker and sure enough it had been tripped. Someone, maybe a curious 4 year old boy we met yesterday had flicked the circuit breaker. At least a solution. We drove off down Ruta 40 to Chalten, very happy that the problem was solved so soon and simply!
Tilted the cab but everything appeared normal. Guy went to inflate the tyres using the truck compressor. Nothing. Then he remembered that the compressor is on the same circuit as the 24V cab supply. Checked the circuit breaker and sure enough it had been tripped. Someone, maybe a curious 4 year old boy we met yesterday had flicked the circuit breaker. At least a solution. We drove off down Ruta 40 to Chalten, very happy that the problem was solved so soon and simply!
Magnificent view as we drive towards El Chalten, MT Fitz Roy and surrounding peaks.
Mt Fitz Roy was shrouded in cloud as it appeared on the horizon but by the evening the sight was more like something out of a child’s fairy tale.
The town, El Chalten was founded in 1985 below Mt Fitz Roy to increase Argentina’s sovereignty of the region. It soon became popular as a climbing and trekking destination for the 100km network of trails and world class peaks surrounding it.
The town, El Chalten was founded in 1985 below Mt Fitz Roy to increase Argentina’s sovereignty of the region. It soon became popular as a climbing and trekking destination for the 100km network of trails and world class peaks surrounding it.
10 January El Chalten
Wow. Not a cloud in the sky. The peaks look great. We enjoyed the good weather by taking a walk up to a waterfall and another to overlook the village towards Fitz Roy although it was once again extremely windy by afternoon. An Andean condor flew above the campsite and armadillos scuttled through it. Rock climbers scaled the slopes behind us.
Wow. Not a cloud in the sky. The peaks look great. We enjoyed the good weather by taking a walk up to a waterfall and another to overlook the village towards Fitz Roy although it was once again extremely windy by afternoon. An Andean condor flew above the campsite and armadillos scuttled through it. Rock climbers scaled the slopes behind us.
Rock climbers practising on the cliffs behind our camp.
11 - 13 January - Perito Moreno Glacier
Our next destination was the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the few glaciers in the world that isn’t retreating. After driving through Calafate and fuelling up we continued on to a roadside free camp a couple of kilometres short of the National Park entrance ready for an early start.
As with many entrance fees foreigners pay more than double what locals pay. In this case it was one tenth the cost for people from this province to enter. We paid AU$35 per person.
It was well worth it despite the overcast drizzly weather.
The glacier is in a steady state with no major changes in its size for 100 years. It occasionally forms an ice dam that blocks the water drainage from Brazo Rico into Canal de los Tempanos. The level of Brazo Rico then rises until the buoyancy of the ice allows for a subglacial stream and water begins to drain. A new rupture then begins followed by continuous calving (ice falling off) and a spectacular outburst of water. The rupture ends as the tunnel grows and the ice arch finally collapses. A channel once again connects both parts of the lake and levels of water become even. The water level of Brazo Rico has risen several times with a maximum flood of approximately 26m above the normal lake level. The last ice bridge collapsed in 2016.
Our next destination was the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the few glaciers in the world that isn’t retreating. After driving through Calafate and fuelling up we continued on to a roadside free camp a couple of kilometres short of the National Park entrance ready for an early start.
As with many entrance fees foreigners pay more than double what locals pay. In this case it was one tenth the cost for people from this province to enter. We paid AU$35 per person.
It was well worth it despite the overcast drizzly weather.
The glacier is in a steady state with no major changes in its size for 100 years. It occasionally forms an ice dam that blocks the water drainage from Brazo Rico into Canal de los Tempanos. The level of Brazo Rico then rises until the buoyancy of the ice allows for a subglacial stream and water begins to drain. A new rupture then begins followed by continuous calving (ice falling off) and a spectacular outburst of water. The rupture ends as the tunnel grows and the ice arch finally collapses. A channel once again connects both parts of the lake and levels of water become even. The water level of Brazo Rico has risen several times with a maximum flood of approximately 26m above the normal lake level. The last ice bridge collapsed in 2016.
Perito Moreno Glacier
After several hours at the glacier we returned to a campground in Calafate where we stayed for 2 nights. As Chile was our next destination a big cook up was required as fresh fruit, vegetables and meat are not allowed into Chile. They actually search the vehicle.
Chile
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14, 15 January
About 3 hours driving south in strong headwinds on sealed and then gravel roads, we stopped to enjoy the views across to Torres del Paine. Finally we reached the border with Chile. We had A smooth passage through the Argentine side followed by a more thorough inspection on the Chilean side. Just a tomato, fresh ginger and the honey had to go before entering Chile. Next stop was a small convenience store to resupply. As we weren't happy to continue to Torres del Paine on such limited supplies and the weather forecast was cold and wet for the next few days, we decided to head south towards Puerto Natales. Torres del Paine can be seen on our way north next month. About 50kms south we pulled into Lago Sofia for two nights - more maintenance and rest with pretty scenery although cold and windy. The problems with the electrics are getting worse. Now we seem to have a major short circuit - 12V, 24V and solar can make a complex mix. The 12V system has an earth problem and we have lost our stereo, podcasts of the ABC Conversation Hour will be sorely missed. The roof lift is misbehaving possibly affected by the electrical fault and has to be reset using the control unit buried in the camper wall. In Guy's attempts at fault finding he is reminded why the solar needs to be managed at the same time..... 16 January Next day in Puerto Natales the starter motor will not engage and we fear the electrics may be at fault but battery checks seem OK. Eventually we find a local mechanic, Roberto, a part time rally driver who gets around in a broken down Chevy pick-up wth flat battery who diagnoses a starter motor fault. While he is cleaning the starter motor we chance upon a sculpture symposium with a display in an old warehouse and others being created by sculptors working in granite, timber and metal in the freezing wind. Later Guy searches the town with Roberto for new parts but without success. That evening, after Roberto has cleaned the carbon buildup out of the starter motor, we get the engine going and head off late for the 250km drive to Punta Arenas. |
View to Torres del Paine from Argentina.
The plants that dare to grow too high are blown flat!
No mans land between Argentine and Chilean border posts is about 8kms. I don't know if this cyclist has made it with those headwinds yet.
Even the horses in Cerro Castillo have problems staying on all fours.
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17 - 20 January
The next 4 nights were spent in and around Punta Arenas as we had the new part to the starter motor fixed and tried to solve electrical problems on the truck with two young electricians. Chevrolet were able to get the part for the starter motor but it required leaving the truck and staying in a 'hostal' for the night and eating the local specialty of king crab. Excellent.
It was also a chance to visit the cemetry with its sculptered cypress trees; Plaza de Armas honoring Hernando de Magallanes and the Maritime Museum which gave an excellent video historical account of the Chilean rescue of Shackleton’s remaining seamen on the Antarctic - an incredible story. So the Chilean reproductions of the Nao Victoria, the Beagle and Shackleton's boat the James Caird that did the crossing from Elephant Island to South Georgia were impressive to see just north of Punta Arenas.
Carlos and Edwin worked for several hours over 2 days trying to solve the complex electrical problem. They believe the 12V converter is at least partly at fault but parts must be ordered on line or bought in Santiago. We are able to keep going and will see to it when we can.
We also enjoyed a pretty drive along the Magellan Strait to San Juan River where we camped. The countryside is flat and windswept with many wildflowers blooming, a few weekenders and a couple of permanent houses.
The next 4 nights were spent in and around Punta Arenas as we had the new part to the starter motor fixed and tried to solve electrical problems on the truck with two young electricians. Chevrolet were able to get the part for the starter motor but it required leaving the truck and staying in a 'hostal' for the night and eating the local specialty of king crab. Excellent.
It was also a chance to visit the cemetry with its sculptered cypress trees; Plaza de Armas honoring Hernando de Magallanes and the Maritime Museum which gave an excellent video historical account of the Chilean rescue of Shackleton’s remaining seamen on the Antarctic - an incredible story. So the Chilean reproductions of the Nao Victoria, the Beagle and Shackleton's boat the James Caird that did the crossing from Elephant Island to South Georgia were impressive to see just north of Punta Arenas.
Carlos and Edwin worked for several hours over 2 days trying to solve the complex electrical problem. They believe the 12V converter is at least partly at fault but parts must be ordered on line or bought in Santiago. We are able to keep going and will see to it when we can.
We also enjoyed a pretty drive along the Magellan Strait to San Juan River where we camped. The countryside is flat and windswept with many wildflowers blooming, a few weekenders and a couple of permanent houses.
21 January
It is possible to cross the Strait to Porvenir on a daily 2 hour ferry from Punta Arenas, but we had decided to do an extra 170kms and drive around and cross Magellean Strait to Tierra del Fuego from Punta Delgarte. It is a 30 minute ferry ride with several ferries operating constantly. So we had the chance to see San Gregorio estancia which had mostly fallen into ruin from being quite a large concern.
Our camp was at Cerro Sombrero (Sombrero Hill) which is a town established by a gas company providing an excellent tourist information office, a heated toilet and shower block and strong wifi throughout the town for free. And everyone who works in the town seems to have a red toyota hilux.
It is possible to cross the Strait to Porvenir on a daily 2 hour ferry from Punta Arenas, but we had decided to do an extra 170kms and drive around and cross Magellean Strait to Tierra del Fuego from Punta Delgarte. It is a 30 minute ferry ride with several ferries operating constantly. So we had the chance to see San Gregorio estancia which had mostly fallen into ruin from being quite a large concern.
Our camp was at Cerro Sombrero (Sombrero Hill) which is a town established by a gas company providing an excellent tourist information office, a heated toilet and shower block and strong wifi throughout the town for free. And everyone who works in the town seems to have a red toyota hilux.
Argentina
22 January
Driving south we crossed the border from Chile back into Argentina and passed around Rio Grande, one of several places Guy would like to fish. Late in the afternoon we came across a listed bush camp where Flavio, a veteran from the south Atlantic War (Falklands) was the self appointed? guardian. What an interesting character. Language was no barrier to him being helpful and talkative.
Driving south we crossed the border from Chile back into Argentina and passed around Rio Grande, one of several places Guy would like to fish. Late in the afternoon we came across a listed bush camp where Flavio, a veteran from the south Atlantic War (Falklands) was the self appointed? guardian. What an interesting character. Language was no barrier to him being helpful and talkative.
23 - 25 January
Continuing south we climbed the range and turned east towards Puerto Almanza, a very quaint fishing village which is the southernmost village in Argentina. It sits across the Beagle Channel from Puerto Williams in Chile. While there we met a young couple who had just returned from working on Bruny Island off Tasmania.
Next morning we back tracked 30 kms through the forest passing many very rustic huts and resumed our travel to Ushuaia, the start point for our Antarctic adventure to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica.
Continuing south we climbed the range and turned east towards Puerto Almanza, a very quaint fishing village which is the southernmost village in Argentina. It sits across the Beagle Channel from Puerto Williams in Chile. While there we met a young couple who had just returned from working on Bruny Island off Tasmania.
Next morning we back tracked 30 kms through the forest passing many very rustic huts and resumed our travel to Ushuaia, the start point for our Antarctic adventure to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica.
Ushuaia overlooking the Beagle Channel to Chile's snow-capped peaks.
Our ship is so tiny.
26 January
The day has come as we sail down the Beagle Channel.
The day has come as we sail down the Beagle Channel.