Guyana
8 November 2019
Up at 4am so that Miguel could get us to the airport on time for the Copa Air flight from Quito to Panama City. A quick change at Panama City and on to Georgetown, the capital of Guyana. We arrived shortly after lunch. As it was a short trip and there would be no cold temperatures we needed light clothes only and managed easily with just hand luggage.
Up at 4am so that Miguel could get us to the airport on time for the Copa Air flight from Quito to Panama City. A quick change at Panama City and on to Georgetown, the capital of Guyana. We arrived shortly after lunch. As it was a short trip and there would be no cold temperatures we needed light clothes only and managed easily with just hand luggage.
The main international airport for Guyana is almost 40 kms away from Georgetown although there is a smaller airport for smaller international aircraft in the town. So a long taxi ride before we made it to our accomodation in a well maintained colonial lodge.
Guyana is much more expensive than what we had experienced on the west coast of South America.
Guyana is much more expensive than what we had experienced on the west coast of South America.
9 - 13 November At last we were off to Wichabai in the southern Rupununi area of southern Guyana. The hour long flight left from the local Georgetown airport in Ogle for Lethem which is on the border with Brazil. The passengers consisted largely of people from Haiti and Cuba seeking asylum in Brazil and further on, some locals and us. Erin and Justin who run Wichabai Ranch picked us up from the airport, showed us the sights of Lethem - the newly sealed divided road before a Brazilian style asado lunch and then the three hour drive to Wichabai (https://www.wichabai.com) where we were staying for a few days. |
We gladly took part in an anteater survey, spotting one and then seeing another the next morning on the way to the village, Katoonarib. Although we didn't get that close to the first one before it took off we were able to follow its path back in the long grass and find the place it had probably been resting. They are very hard to spot in the long grass or amongst the trees. Erin is gradually getting the village on side with their sightings in the hope more can be done to preserve their numbers.
We did an early morning bird walk to see if we could spot the rare red siskin; other birds seen but no luck with the siskin today. Had a bit of luck with the camera trap which was collected - a jaguars rear end was seen. They're about, just like the anteaters and red siskin. Just time and patience needed.
We visited Dadanawa Ranch, a nearby cattle ranch run by the community. Then an afternoon paddle down a tributary of the Essequibo River spotting birds as the full moon rose.
We visited Dadanawa Ranch, a nearby cattle ranch run by the community. Then an afternoon paddle down a tributary of the Essequibo River spotting birds as the full moon rose.
To visit a local amerindian village permission must be obtained from the tuschau (chief). We visited Katoonarib and were shown locals harvesting peanuts and growing cassava. People were happy to discuss what they do during the various seasons and how they lengthen production. Crop rotation is practised and the farming is organic.
I was treated to a session of making farina from cassava by Allison. Everything was carefully explained and questions answered. The final product was excellent. Although dry and hard it is an excellent addition to thicken stews or gravies. Nice sprinkled on sauce dishes.
I was treated to a session of making farina from cassava by Allison. Everything was carefully explained and questions answered. The final product was excellent. Although dry and hard it is an excellent addition to thicken stews or gravies. Nice sprinkled on sauce dishes.
We had enjoyed our time at Wichabai staying with Erin and Justin in their house. Very relaxing and yet we had had many new experiences. We would love to return in a different season and experience more.
13 - 15 November Georgetown
Back in Georgetown we did a day flight to Kaieteur Falls, the world's widest single drop waterfall located in the Amazon forest about 250 kms south of Georgetown. The fall is 226m high and although many falls have greater height, few have the combination of height and water volume.
We viewed the Falls on our flight in and also from three vantage points on the ground. Many creatures are found only in this area. One of them is the golden rocket frog which our guide found in the outer leaves of the giant bromeliad. The frogs are near the water holding centres of the giant bromeliads. They are common prey for snakes.
Unfortunately the results of gold mining, past and present were very visible in the green of the jungle and along the rivers.
Back in Georgetown we did a day flight to Kaieteur Falls, the world's widest single drop waterfall located in the Amazon forest about 250 kms south of Georgetown. The fall is 226m high and although many falls have greater height, few have the combination of height and water volume.
We viewed the Falls on our flight in and also from three vantage points on the ground. Many creatures are found only in this area. One of them is the golden rocket frog which our guide found in the outer leaves of the giant bromeliad. The frogs are near the water holding centres of the giant bromeliads. They are common prey for snakes.
Unfortunately the results of gold mining, past and present were very visible in the green of the jungle and along the rivers.
16 November
Time to retrace our steps from Guyana back to Quito via Panama City. But there is a lot more of Guyana to visit.
Time to retrace our steps from Guyana back to Quito via Panama City. But there is a lot more of Guyana to visit.