Chile
13 February 2018
After breakfast, disembarking and bidding farewell to the expedition team we were taken to the Arakur where our chariot awaited. We loaded up, sent a few emails and drove down to Ushuaia where it was a public holiday. Situated in the first bank building of Ushuaia, the small Museo del Fin del Mundo – museum of the end of the world was open. It gave some interesting information about the Yaghan (or Yamana), Alacaluts, and the Ona peoples who once roamed the desolate area, enduring rough climatic conditions and finding little competition for the wildlife and marine resources upon which they relied for survival. The Ona were tall, fierce warriors living inland while the Yaghan and Alacaluts lived by the sea. The Yaghan people who smoothed greasy fish or animal fat over their bodies to protect their skin from the wind and cold constantly had a fire stoked to keep themselves warm. They wore little or no clothing. While in their bark canoes they even carried fire, providing warmth while they traveled the chilly waters. The very name of this region, Tierra del Fuego (meaning "Land of Fire"), was inspired by this group of indigenous peoples. All these groups were basically wiped out by disease or were killed off by the Europeans. Those remaining were assimilated, losing their culture.
We started the drive north, finally camping by Lake Fagnano.
After breakfast, disembarking and bidding farewell to the expedition team we were taken to the Arakur where our chariot awaited. We loaded up, sent a few emails and drove down to Ushuaia where it was a public holiday. Situated in the first bank building of Ushuaia, the small Museo del Fin del Mundo – museum of the end of the world was open. It gave some interesting information about the Yaghan (or Yamana), Alacaluts, and the Ona peoples who once roamed the desolate area, enduring rough climatic conditions and finding little competition for the wildlife and marine resources upon which they relied for survival. The Ona were tall, fierce warriors living inland while the Yaghan and Alacaluts lived by the sea. The Yaghan people who smoothed greasy fish or animal fat over their bodies to protect their skin from the wind and cold constantly had a fire stoked to keep themselves warm. They wore little or no clothing. While in their bark canoes they even carried fire, providing warmth while they traveled the chilly waters. The very name of this region, Tierra del Fuego (meaning "Land of Fire"), was inspired by this group of indigenous peoples. All these groups were basically wiped out by disease or were killed off by the Europeans. Those remaining were assimilated, losing their culture.
We started the drive north, finally camping by Lake Fagnano.
A young mink - Flaveo's new company.
14, 15, 16 February
We visited Flavio who showed us his new companion, a young mink living under a container. Unfortunately, minks and north American beavers were introduced in the 1940s and have proliferated to the detriment of some native species. The beavers have been particularly harmful, building dams causing flooding which has devastated some low lying forests.
The Patagonian winds were cold and ferocious, catching Guy's door and bending it as he went to get out. So a night sheltered between two trucks at a servo near Rio Grande followed.
Having eaten most of our fresh food we crossed the border into Chile and continued the drive to Puerto Natales where we stocked up before Torres del Paine. The winds were surprisingly calm this time and the artworks we had seen earlier were all now completed.
We enjoyed some good coffee and crepes at a cafe but the food prices are very similar to Australia.
We visited Flavio who showed us his new companion, a young mink living under a container. Unfortunately, minks and north American beavers were introduced in the 1940s and have proliferated to the detriment of some native species. The beavers have been particularly harmful, building dams causing flooding which has devastated some low lying forests.
The Patagonian winds were cold and ferocious, catching Guy's door and bending it as he went to get out. So a night sheltered between two trucks at a servo near Rio Grande followed.
Having eaten most of our fresh food we crossed the border into Chile and continued the drive to Puerto Natales where we stocked up before Torres del Paine. The winds were surprisingly calm this time and the artworks we had seen earlier were all now completed.
We enjoyed some good coffee and crepes at a cafe but the food prices are very similar to Australia.
Looking across the Strait of Magellan, Puerto Natales, Chile.
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Stone statue to explorer, evangelist de Agostini, Puerto Natales
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Driving north to Torres del Paine
17 - 20 February Torres del Paine
We entered Torres del Paine through the Serrano entrance. It cost 20,000 chilean pesos each (AU$43) for 3 days or however long we remained in the park. No re-entry after 3 days but free to stay as long as desired if already inside the park.
The drive to Lago Grey gave us glimpses of the stunning Torres del Paine. It was overcast with some light showers but no wind when we walked to the Lago Grey mirador. It was 3 km each way and hard going on a lot of pebbles, stones and course dark sand. We couldn’t see much of the glacier because of low cloud but there was an amazing blue iceberg right by the lookout.
We entered Torres del Paine through the Serrano entrance. It cost 20,000 chilean pesos each (AU$43) for 3 days or however long we remained in the park. No re-entry after 3 days but free to stay as long as desired if already inside the park.
The drive to Lago Grey gave us glimpses of the stunning Torres del Paine. It was overcast with some light showers but no wind when we walked to the Lago Grey mirador. It was 3 km each way and hard going on a lot of pebbles, stones and course dark sand. We couldn’t see much of the glacier because of low cloud but there was an amazing blue iceberg right by the lookout.
We walked across the sand-bar to the island to look up to Grey Glacier. A large ice berg floated by.
Due to strong winds last night we had lowered the roof, however it wouldn’t go up this morning. Having exhausted all other avenues Guy put the spare actuator on. So no departure until 3pm. It is light until about 9.30pm and we did not have far to go. No rush to move anyway. Once on the move we had stops for photos, to admire the view and even watch condors and it was still light when we arrived at Pudito.
Next morning we walked down to the waterfall and onto the Cuernos lookout with views of the Cuernos nearly the whole way.
Next morning we walked down to the waterfall and onto the Cuernos lookout with views of the Cuernos nearly the whole way.
In the afternoon we drove to the Torres visitor centre which was flat, grassy and with excellent toilets which accept toilet paper!!! (As the sanitary system is not the best in South America, used toilet paper is deposited in a bin next to the pedestal.) We will camp here. The bonus was that the centre is hosting the South American section of the Banff Mountain Film Festival tonight.
Great night with several amazing films but the highlight was about 3 Belgian guys team free climbing ‘the wall’ of Torres 12 months ago. Amazing.
Great night with several amazing films but the highlight was about 3 Belgian guys team free climbing ‘the wall’ of Torres 12 months ago. Amazing.
Lovely weather so we decided to do a hike towards Chilena - two kilometres of flat and then an unrelenting climb for 2.5 kilometres before some downhill to Chilena. Guy continued on to the Base of Torres which he said was fantastic but hard work. He returned about 6.30pm, exhausted but exhilarated.
Torres base camp.
We saw five condors following the same flight path on the border between Chile and Argentina.
21 February
From Torres del Paine we would like to have driven to Caleta Tortel and the Carretera Austral and remain in Chile, but due to mountains and huge ice caps that is not possible. So it was east to Argentina in order to get further north.
From Torres del Paine we would like to have driven to Caleta Tortel and the Carretera Austral and remain in Chile, but due to mountains and huge ice caps that is not possible. So it was east to Argentina in order to get further north.
22 - 26 February
Retracing our steps we stopped off at Calafate, Lago Cardiel, Estancia La Angostura and Gobernador Gregores. Maintenance and chores needed attention - 4WD not working properly and fridge has stopped cooling. The fridge was easily fixed, a loose wire but the 4WD will require further investigation at a workshop.
More than 700kms from entering Argentina we once again turned west onto terrible, terrible roads for 100kms and the Chilean border. But the countryside is beautiful and remote.
Retracing our steps we stopped off at Calafate, Lago Cardiel, Estancia La Angostura and Gobernador Gregores. Maintenance and chores needed attention - 4WD not working properly and fridge has stopped cooling. The fridge was easily fixed, a loose wire but the 4WD will require further investigation at a workshop.
More than 700kms from entering Argentina we once again turned west onto terrible, terrible roads for 100kms and the Chilean border. But the countryside is beautiful and remote.
Grand scenery near the border.
27, 28 February
Beautiful blue-sky day. We took our time as the scenery was pretty amazing although the gravel road prevented any speed. At the Argentine border Guy handed over our remaining food, we were stamped out and then the military guy checked the truck for any firther fresh fruit, vegetables or meat we had missed. Sadly the peanut paste went but vegemite remained.
From the Chilean border we drove straight into Patagonia National Park, a huge area in Patagonia that Tompkins had founded to save this beautiful place, fantastic scenery. Tompkins who made his money from Esprit and North Face became an environmentalist dedicated to the conservation and restoration of southern Chile. In January this year Tompkins Conservation donated 1 million acres and its first class infrastructure to which Chile added 9 million acres to creating Patagonia National Park and Pumalin National Park further north. It has been billed as the largest donation of land from a private entity to a country.
Beautiful blue-sky day. We took our time as the scenery was pretty amazing although the gravel road prevented any speed. At the Argentine border Guy handed over our remaining food, we were stamped out and then the military guy checked the truck for any firther fresh fruit, vegetables or meat we had missed. Sadly the peanut paste went but vegemite remained.
From the Chilean border we drove straight into Patagonia National Park, a huge area in Patagonia that Tompkins had founded to save this beautiful place, fantastic scenery. Tompkins who made his money from Esprit and North Face became an environmentalist dedicated to the conservation and restoration of southern Chile. In January this year Tompkins Conservation donated 1 million acres and its first class infrastructure to which Chile added 9 million acres to creating Patagonia National Park and Pumalin National Park further north. It has been billed as the largest donation of land from a private entity to a country.
From snow capped peaks to these beautiful lakes, Patagonia Park is a special place.
Washington, his faithful dog and horse.
The fantastic scenery of mountains cut by fast flowing streams in deep gorges continued as we drove south to Cochrane on the Carretera Austral. Cochrane is quite small so the supermarket has everything from buckets to wood fired heaters, hats and spurs as well as food. We needed to stock up, then spent a night in Tamango National Park.
Next afternoon we drove to the other side of town to check out camping possibilities. Fortunately we passed a man who I had seen on a horse in town. Wasinngton invited us to stay on his property beside the river. Fantastic!
Washington had a very interesting past including spending many years in Sweden. Unfortunately it was difficult to learn a lot as he was rather deaf. and our Spanish was lacking. A delightful gentleman all the same who made us very welcome.
Next afternoon we drove to the other side of town to check out camping possibilities. Fortunately we passed a man who I had seen on a horse in town. Wasinngton invited us to stay on his property beside the river. Fantastic!
Washington had a very interesting past including spending many years in Sweden. Unfortunately it was difficult to learn a lot as he was rather deaf. and our Spanish was lacking. A delightful gentleman all the same who made us very welcome.
1, 2 March
From Cochrane we drove south on the Carretera Austral to Caleta Tortel, a small town that was no more than a small settlement of houses on stilts serviced by sea only 15 years ago. With the Carretera Austral extension it was connected by road. Impressive scenery on the drive but terrible roads which were slow going.
From Cochrane we drove south on the Carretera Austral to Caleta Tortel, a small town that was no more than a small settlement of houses on stilts serviced by sea only 15 years ago. With the Carretera Austral extension it was connected by road. Impressive scenery on the drive but terrible roads which were slow going.
Great scenery
3 March
Back at Washington's property, some rest and a little fishing for Guy. No salmon to be caught in the stream unfortunately but we still shared a meal of chicken and chorizo over the fire with Washington.
Back at Washington's property, some rest and a little fishing for Guy. No salmon to be caught in the stream unfortunately but we still shared a meal of chicken and chorizo over the fire with Washington.
Guy and Washington - only a mother could tell them apart.
4, 5 March
Freezing outside last night but a toasty 4°C inside with mist over the stream when we woke up.
The Carretera Austral was calling with a blue green river or a blue green lake beside us and snow-capped mountains around us as we drove north. We made a couple of fishing stops on our way to Puerto Rio Tranquillo where the marble caves are.
The boat trip out to the caves was a bit rough but well worth it. The marble colouring was highlighted at the base where the clear blue waters had eroded the rock away. While Cheryl was visiting the caves, Guy met Corrie and Wilhelm who had spent 10 years sailing prior to travelling overland. Their sailing included the southern areas of South America out to the Falklands and South Georgia. Amazing.
Freezing outside last night but a toasty 4°C inside with mist over the stream when we woke up.
The Carretera Austral was calling with a blue green river or a blue green lake beside us and snow-capped mountains around us as we drove north. We made a couple of fishing stops on our way to Puerto Rio Tranquillo where the marble caves are.
The boat trip out to the caves was a bit rough but well worth it. The marble colouring was highlighted at the base where the clear blue waters had eroded the rock away. While Cheryl was visiting the caves, Guy met Corrie and Wilhelm who had spent 10 years sailing prior to travelling overland. Their sailing included the southern areas of South America out to the Falklands and South Georgia. Amazing.
The roads north seemed to be forever gravel with pot holes. Added to the dreary overcast, drizzly weather it was becoming tedious – doors squeaking, things rattling and thump bump all the time. Slow and uncomfortable. Roadworks with 15 – 20 minute delays. We were averaging about 30 kms/hr.
Finally we stopped for lunch at Cerro Castillo (Castle Mountains) with great views to the Cerro when the clouds lifted. Best news was that the roads improved from Cerro Castillo. Sealed at last…except a few bits with roadworks especially the last 5 kms into Coyhaique.
Finally we stopped for lunch at Cerro Castillo (Castle Mountains) with great views to the Cerro when the clouds lifted. Best news was that the roads improved from Cerro Castillo. Sealed at last…except a few bits with roadworks especially the last 5 kms into Coyhaique.
Fantastic scenery of the Chilean Patagonia.
Traffic light entertainment in Cohaique.
6 March
Quiet uneventful restful day until the arrival of ambulance, police (carabineros), bomberos (fire brigade) another ambulance and more police in the late afternoon. A car had gone over a steep cliff and landed in the creek at the back of the campground killing the driver.
7 March
Trying to solve our worsening electrical problems we went to a nearby motorhome company. They tried to assist by bypassing the voltage sensing relay to enable the charging of the house batteries off the motor. We later learnt that although this seemed logical it did not work. Drove on, camping by Lago las Torres.
Quiet uneventful restful day until the arrival of ambulance, police (carabineros), bomberos (fire brigade) another ambulance and more police in the late afternoon. A car had gone over a steep cliff and landed in the creek at the back of the campground killing the driver.
7 March
Trying to solve our worsening electrical problems we went to a nearby motorhome company. They tried to assist by bypassing the voltage sensing relay to enable the charging of the house batteries off the motor. We later learnt that although this seemed logical it did not work. Drove on, camping by Lago las Torres.
8 March
Easy start on sealed road to the picturesque hamlet of Puerto Cisnes. A few dolphins were chasing fish, perhaps escapees from the nearby salmon farms. The weather was wet and misty when we retraced our steps back to the turn off for Puyuhuapi - more potholed gravel road. The Bosque Encantado on this road had been recommended to us. In the wet weather
it was the right place to be – very enchanting forest with ferns, moss and lichen hanging on the trees.
Easy start on sealed road to the picturesque hamlet of Puerto Cisnes. A few dolphins were chasing fish, perhaps escapees from the nearby salmon farms. The weather was wet and misty when we retraced our steps back to the turn off for Puyuhuapi - more potholed gravel road. The Bosque Encantado on this road had been recommended to us. In the wet weather
it was the right place to be – very enchanting forest with ferns, moss and lichen hanging on the trees.
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Amazing forest with every shade of green and every surface brimming with ferns, lichen and mosses,
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The very appropriately named - Bosque Encantado - Enchanted Forest.
Recovering the road after landslides.
Continuing up the road and down the many hairpin bends through more roadworks and narrow sections was slow but sometimes whole sections had to be rebuilt after landslides. Finally we arrived at Puyuhuapi at the top of the fiord, still raining and cold. Smoke was rising from the chimneys of the houses.
Friday 9 March
As we drove north we noticed the river was very muddy. A catastrophic landslide had occurred on December 16 with loss of life, smothering about one third of Villa Santa Lucia and the Carretel with thick mud brought from 8kms away in the mountains. Although the road had reopened a couple of days ago, Villa Santa Lucia was full of the army, essential services and road teams. I believe the town may be relocated.
As we drove north we noticed the river was very muddy. A catastrophic landslide had occurred on December 16 with loss of life, smothering about one third of Villa Santa Lucia and the Carretel with thick mud brought from 8kms away in the mountains. Although the road had reopened a couple of days ago, Villa Santa Lucia was full of the army, essential services and road teams. I believe the town may be relocated.
We turned eastward to Futaleufu which is near the border with Argentina. Surprisingly there seemed to be more farms as we drove west than we had seen further south. In the clear Futaleufu River many rafters and kayakers were enjoying the fast flowing, freezing waters. More beautiful mountain, lake and river scenery which was very inviting for the fishermen.
Arrived into a quiet, neat little town with the usual dogs and free wifi in the central plaza and we noticed that the bracket holding the back left shock absorber has broken and the shock absorber is hanging. Guy removed it - another casualty of these rough roads.
Arrived into a quiet, neat little town with the usual dogs and free wifi in the central plaza and we noticed that the bracket holding the back left shock absorber has broken and the shock absorber is hanging. Guy removed it - another casualty of these rough roads.
10 March
Despite the beauty of the area there were no fish, so we turned back to the devastation of Villa Santa Lucia and then north to Chaiten.
Problems – fridge running non-stop and not cooling and no power to the cab accessories. Cab power issue sorted, removal of a fuse and then roof stops coming down! Sunny and the solar is charging despite the fridge going constantly. Guy did a good job getting the roof working and we were back on the road but no music, podcasts or ipad charging.
A 20 minute delay getting on the Carretera as it was only a single lane for the 6 kms that had to be rebuilt. There was mud up to my eye level in the truck and beyond all looks flattened with a broken roof or two exposed. Everything on the western side of the Carretera Austral has been flattened, smothered by dark mud. The rebuilt road follows the original road although I feel the original road is a few metres under in places. The forest is cleared for more
than a kilometre and the stream deeply gouged at a bend where the road would have been completely buried. The event and force of nature really is incredible. After the sobering drive we had more roadworks to go through before arriving in Chaiten.
Unfortunately the ferry to Chiloe doesn’t leave for 3 days. So we decided on the
alternative which was to stay on the Carretera Austral to Puerto Montt and then go to
Chiloe from there.
Despite the beauty of the area there were no fish, so we turned back to the devastation of Villa Santa Lucia and then north to Chaiten.
Problems – fridge running non-stop and not cooling and no power to the cab accessories. Cab power issue sorted, removal of a fuse and then roof stops coming down! Sunny and the solar is charging despite the fridge going constantly. Guy did a good job getting the roof working and we were back on the road but no music, podcasts or ipad charging.
A 20 minute delay getting on the Carretera as it was only a single lane for the 6 kms that had to be rebuilt. There was mud up to my eye level in the truck and beyond all looks flattened with a broken roof or two exposed. Everything on the western side of the Carretera Austral has been flattened, smothered by dark mud. The rebuilt road follows the original road although I feel the original road is a few metres under in places. The forest is cleared for more
than a kilometre and the stream deeply gouged at a bend where the road would have been completely buried. The event and force of nature really is incredible. After the sobering drive we had more roadworks to go through before arriving in Chaiten.
Unfortunately the ferry to Chiloe doesn’t leave for 3 days. So we decided on the
alternative which was to stay on the Carretera Austral to Puerto Montt and then go to
Chiloe from there.
Pumalin Park in the early morning.
Sunday 11 March
Up a little earlier than usual as we needed to drive 45 kms through Pumalin Park to catch the ferry which is a part of the Carretera Austral. In the morning mist it was a beautiful drive through the Valdivian temperate forest with venting volcano Chaiten only a few kilometres away. So glad we decided to come this way.
We arrived at Caleta Gonzalo and waited for the ferry. We had no booking although we had tried on line. Oh no, it seems everyone except us and a prime mover could fit on. We had to return 55kms on mostly bumpy volcanic earth roads to Chaiten and buy a ticket for the 8.30am ferry tomorrow. The office had moved but we finally got tickets and for the third time in one day we drove 75 minutes through the forest on the road to Caleta Gonzalo. Chaiten Volcano was still venting but we made it past for the third time.
Up a little earlier than usual as we needed to drive 45 kms through Pumalin Park to catch the ferry which is a part of the Carretera Austral. In the morning mist it was a beautiful drive through the Valdivian temperate forest with venting volcano Chaiten only a few kilometres away. So glad we decided to come this way.
We arrived at Caleta Gonzalo and waited for the ferry. We had no booking although we had tried on line. Oh no, it seems everyone except us and a prime mover could fit on. We had to return 55kms on mostly bumpy volcanic earth roads to Chaiten and buy a ticket for the 8.30am ferry tomorrow. The office had moved but we finally got tickets and for the third time in one day we drove 75 minutes through the forest on the road to Caleta Gonzalo. Chaiten Volcano was still venting but we made it past for the third time.
12 March
Up at 7am, still raining, roof down. Guy moved the truck out to join the queue for the ferry and came across 5 double wagoned cattle trucks that we would share the journey with. The first ferry ride of about 30 minutes took us to Fiordo Longo, we then drove 10 kms through lush Pumalin National Park to Leptepu where we take a 3½Hour ferry ride up the fiord to Hornopiren. Unfortunately, it was overcast most of the time. We continued the drive and one more ferry to Puerto Montt where the truck was to see the Chevrolet dealer in the morning.
Up at 7am, still raining, roof down. Guy moved the truck out to join the queue for the ferry and came across 5 double wagoned cattle trucks that we would share the journey with. The first ferry ride of about 30 minutes took us to Fiordo Longo, we then drove 10 kms through lush Pumalin National Park to Leptepu where we take a 3½Hour ferry ride up the fiord to Hornopiren. Unfortunately, it was overcast most of the time. We continued the drive and one more ferry to Puerto Montt where the truck was to see the Chevrolet dealer in the morning.
Other overlanders staying at Puerto Varas.
13 - 17 March
After a morning at Chevrolet having the rear diff seen to we drove 20 kms up the road to Puerto Varas to have the electrical issues seen to. This was a slow process as it was deemed we needed new batteries which meant a few days waiting. Another fault was found and Guy is never to touch the electrics unsupervised again.
Puerto Varas on Lake Llanquihue and opposite the perfectly shaped, snow capped Osorno Volcano is a nice place to spend a little time - beautiful surrounds, quaint old homes and many nice coffee shops.
After a morning at Chevrolet having the rear diff seen to we drove 20 kms up the road to Puerto Varas to have the electrical issues seen to. This was a slow process as it was deemed we needed new batteries which meant a few days waiting. Another fault was found and Guy is never to touch the electrics unsupervised again.
Puerto Varas on Lake Llanquihue and opposite the perfectly shaped, snow capped Osorno Volcano is a nice place to spend a little time - beautiful surrounds, quaint old homes and many nice coffee shops.
Volcano Orsino overlooking Lago Llanquihue
Volcano Cabulco which erupted a couple of years ago.
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18 March
Electrical work completed with the fridge/freezer still to be repaired at another time. The whole exercise was more expensive than we expected, but all to a good cause with Arturo's much needed eye surgery next week in Mexico. We were invited to a barbecue with the men, their wives and some friends at the workshop on Sunday afternoon. Two chunks of beef and one of pork were rotisseried with slabs of meat being cut off as they cooked. Moist and tasty, sprinkled with parilla salt. |
At last we could move on to Chiloe, an island to the south. The weather was cold and wet as we took the motorway south and then the ferry, finally camping at a lookout at Ancud.
Church of San Francisco, Castro.
19 March
The weather was cold and wet as we drove to Castro, the third oldest city in Chile. Brightly coloured palafitos, stilt houses, lined the water’s edge as we drove into town.
The yellow and purple Church of San Francisco faced the Plaza de Armas, and at the bottom of steep slopes leading down from the town centre were other palafitos which had been renovated to become accommodation and coffee shops.
After a wander around Castro we drove through quaint Dalcahue to our camp on a pebbly beach overlooking mussel and salmon farms with seals, geese and various gulls out to get what they could.
The weather was clearing and it was even getting warmer.
The weather was cold and wet as we drove to Castro, the third oldest city in Chile. Brightly coloured palafitos, stilt houses, lined the water’s edge as we drove into town.
The yellow and purple Church of San Francisco faced the Plaza de Armas, and at the bottom of steep slopes leading down from the town centre were other palafitos which had been renovated to become accommodation and coffee shops.
After a wander around Castro we drove through quaint Dalcahue to our camp on a pebbly beach overlooking mussel and salmon farms with seals, geese and various gulls out to get what they could.
The weather was clearing and it was even getting warmer.
20, 21 March
As we returned on the ferry, the weather was so clear we could see the snow-capped Andes more than 120kms to the east. As we drove into the Chilean Lakes District the Osorno, Calbuco and Puntiagudo (Spanish for sharp pointed) volcanoes were looking fabulous against the blue skies and blue lakes.
We had just set up camp beside Lake Rupanco when a retired physician said he had seen a lot of trucks moving there the night before. There were a few local fishermen with their tinnies but that was it, so we decided to stay.
As we returned on the ferry, the weather was so clear we could see the snow-capped Andes more than 120kms to the east. As we drove into the Chilean Lakes District the Osorno, Calbuco and Puntiagudo (Spanish for sharp pointed) volcanoes were looking fabulous against the blue skies and blue lakes.
We had just set up camp beside Lake Rupanco when a retired physician said he had seen a lot of trucks moving there the night before. There were a few local fishermen with their tinnies but that was it, so we decided to stay.
I heard a local come back from fishing, hook his boat up on the trailer and drive off about 11pm but 15 minutes later I couldn’t believe my eyes when two semi-trailers moved past us on the narrow beach. One at a time, they drove into the lake, turned and then backed around the point. I heard one more truck during the night but I was astounded to see 5 of them lined up around us the next morning and a poor local trying to squeeze through to back his boat trailer into the water.
We had a little company the next morning!
One of the trucks reversed around the corner waiting to load up with salmon.
The lake was very misty but a couple of truckies were in it having a wash and shave. I thought it must be freezing, but the lake was surprisingly warm with thermal waters running in from the nearby stream.
We decided to leave. The way out (and in) was under a bridge and up a stone track. All those semi trailers and the locals would have been using that same track!
The lake was very misty but a couple of truckies were in it having a wash and shave. I thought it must be freezing, but the lake was surprisingly warm with thermal waters running in from the nearby stream.
We decided to leave. The way out (and in) was under a bridge and up a stone track. All those semi trailers and the locals would have been using that same track!
After breakfast by Lake Puyehue, we crossed the border into Argentina at the Cardinal Antonio Samore Pass with spectacular views to the mountains including Puntiagudo and Tronador Volcaoes. A further 20kms we stopped at the Argentinian border where we underwent a quarantine inspection for fruit, vege and fresh meat. The officer seemed to not see the fruit in a plastic bag in the front – maybe drying jocks and socks on the front dash were a bit off putting. She did a reasonable check of the side lockers and inside and after 20 minutes we were on our way without loss.
Argentinain Lakes District.
The beautiful scenery continued as we drove on to the picturesque but touristy Villa La Angostura in the Argentinian Lakes District. we set up camp on a small bay of Nahuel Huapi Lake. Guy had a quick fish before the overcast drizzly weather returned.
22, 23 March
Unfortunately, the drive past lakes and mountains was accompanied by some poor weather so we decided to go on a more easterly route to the north seeking some warmth and sunshine. At last we had a tail wind as we headed for Mendoza.
The going was dry and dusty on the busy sealed road with many trucks to pass.
At Villa El Chocon we stopped to see the giganotosaurus carolinii. Discovered in 1993 it is larger than tyrannosaurus rex. The site is near a dam, one of several on the Limay River with the surrounding area very dry and flat for hundreds of kilometres.
We had covered over 1000kms with about 100kms of very poor, pot-holed bitumen.
22, 23 March
Unfortunately, the drive past lakes and mountains was accompanied by some poor weather so we decided to go on a more easterly route to the north seeking some warmth and sunshine. At last we had a tail wind as we headed for Mendoza.
The going was dry and dusty on the busy sealed road with many trucks to pass.
At Villa El Chocon we stopped to see the giganotosaurus carolinii. Discovered in 1993 it is larger than tyrannosaurus rex. The site is near a dam, one of several on the Limay River with the surrounding area very dry and flat for hundreds of kilometres.
We had covered over 1000kms with about 100kms of very poor, pot-holed bitumen.
Snow-capped Andes in the far distance.
Old logs come in very handy.
24 March
Entering Mendoza Province we were required to pass through a fresh fruit and vegetable check to ensure fruit fly and other pests are not transported between provinces. Eat it or bin it. Some check points also have a sanitizing spray to go through for which we must pay 50 pesos (about AU$3).
With no fresh produce we stopped at pleasant General Alvear to resupply. As we continued on, the area became greener with low shrubs rather than the eaten down, half dead, yellow grass of the last few hundred kilometres. Then the grape vines started to appear along with olive, peach and plum trees.
We arrived in the sycamore tree lined streets of San Rafael.
Entering Mendoza Province we were required to pass through a fresh fruit and vegetable check to ensure fruit fly and other pests are not transported between provinces. Eat it or bin it. Some check points also have a sanitizing spray to go through for which we must pay 50 pesos (about AU$3).
With no fresh produce we stopped at pleasant General Alvear to resupply. As we continued on, the area became greener with low shrubs rather than the eaten down, half dead, yellow grass of the last few hundred kilometres. Then the grape vines started to appear along with olive, peach and plum trees.
We arrived in the sycamore tree lined streets of San Rafael.
Sad end I think.
Sunday 25 March
A bodega beckoned but no tours today although Cheryl did try a young cabernet sauvignon and a malbec aged in American oak. More bodegas on our return to Mendoza but first we intended getting to Valparaiso on the Pacific coast of Chile and returning before the Easter holiday crowds.
Winding through rugged, dry mountains along with many cars and trucks, we headed towards Uspallata and then the Andes and the Chilean border. We pulled up at a stunning camp site well above the road with magnificent views to the mountains and a creek in the valley below just west of Uspallata.
A bodega beckoned but no tours today although Cheryl did try a young cabernet sauvignon and a malbec aged in American oak. More bodegas on our return to Mendoza but first we intended getting to Valparaiso on the Pacific coast of Chile and returning before the Easter holiday crowds.
Winding through rugged, dry mountains along with many cars and trucks, we headed towards Uspallata and then the Andes and the Chilean border. We pulled up at a stunning camp site well above the road with magnificent views to the mountains and a creek in the valley below just west of Uspallata.
Campsite in the Andes prior to crossing to Chile.
26, 27, 28 March Valparaiso, Chile
A clear day. Barren but interesting scenery as we drove through the Andes towards the border. We had decided to take the zig zag path up the mountain to the Cristo Redentor statue at 12,572 feet (3832m) rather than the tunnel like 99% of traffic does. The views were spectacular as was the road which seemed to be scarier on the Argentine side than the Chilean side.
A clear day. Barren but interesting scenery as we drove through the Andes towards the border. We had decided to take the zig zag path up the mountain to the Cristo Redentor statue at 12,572 feet (3832m) rather than the tunnel like 99% of traffic does. The views were spectacular as was the road which seemed to be scarier on the Argentine side than the Chilean side.
In Chile we had chosen a camp ground about 50 minutes away from Valparaiso with a frequent bus service to the port rather than driving in. Personal and property safety are concerns in Valparaiso. It was only 1000 pesos (AU$2) each for the 50-minute bus ride into town where we disembarked at the waterfront.
Valparaiso, now the centre of the Chilean parliament sprawls across 42 hills surrounding the harbour which is an important naval base. Several ‘ascensores’ rise up the hillsides although the ones we saw were under repair – we need the exercise anyway. Beautiful houses and slums are side by side with no order or plan. Few buildings have survived the earthquakes of the past, particularly the devastating earthquake of 1906 and other serious ones in 1971 and 1985. Of particular interest is the bright street art which distinguishes Valparaiso from other cities. The declared Cultural Capital of Chile is now the seat of the Chilean Government and slowly being renovated and made safer.
In our wanderings we passed the Mural Mapuche and followed the Cielo Abierto - street art up the hill and watched the fog roll in just after midday. After lunch, we must have wandered too far as a woman picking up her 3 children from a high fenced local catholic primary school warned us that it was dangerous there. No wonder it was quiet with no one around. We high tailed it out following very closely behind the woman and her children until we got to a busy square. Time to return to the campground.
Valparaiso, now the centre of the Chilean parliament sprawls across 42 hills surrounding the harbour which is an important naval base. Several ‘ascensores’ rise up the hillsides although the ones we saw were under repair – we need the exercise anyway. Beautiful houses and slums are side by side with no order or plan. Few buildings have survived the earthquakes of the past, particularly the devastating earthquake of 1906 and other serious ones in 1971 and 1985. Of particular interest is the bright street art which distinguishes Valparaiso from other cities. The declared Cultural Capital of Chile is now the seat of the Chilean Government and slowly being renovated and made safer.
In our wanderings we passed the Mural Mapuche and followed the Cielo Abierto - street art up the hill and watched the fog roll in just after midday. After lunch, we must have wandered too far as a woman picking up her 3 children from a high fenced local catholic primary school warned us that it was dangerous there. No wonder it was quiet with no one around. We high tailed it out following very closely behind the woman and her children until we got to a busy square. Time to return to the campground.
Retracing our steps, we returned to Argentina ahead of the Easter rush. Just over the border in Argentina, Aconcagua at 22,838 feet (6962m) is the highest mountain outside the Himalayas. It made for an interesting stop where we took the path to a viewpoint of the mountain and surrounding interesting terrain.
Argentine passport control and customs followed before we continued on to Uspallata.
Argentine passport control and customs followed before we continued on to Uspallata.
18th century kilns
29 March
Another fine day and we started it at the Los Bovedas which date back to the 18th century. The main building consists of three domes, built of mud, covered with lime and with stone foundations. They were used for smelting – gold amongst other things and the first cannon balls were fused here for the Andean Army. Nearby buildings were mills that brought water to the area.
It was free to enter but unfortunately for us it was all in Spanish although the guide did manage to impart some knowledge to us. It was set up well and interesting local artwork was in the old rooms.
Back to Uspallata for supplies and then we headed east to Mendoza via the very scenic ripio (gravel) track through the mountains - even Charles Darwin had come this way! Passed some great campsites with a view and other interesting points before the termas (thermal springs) from where the road was sealed.
We took a turn on to a gravel road to find a camp but unfortunately the rangers came by and said we couldn’t camp in the park. We drove on closer to Mendoza.
Another fine day and we started it at the Los Bovedas which date back to the 18th century. The main building consists of three domes, built of mud, covered with lime and with stone foundations. They were used for smelting – gold amongst other things and the first cannon balls were fused here for the Andean Army. Nearby buildings were mills that brought water to the area.
It was free to enter but unfortunately for us it was all in Spanish although the guide did manage to impart some knowledge to us. It was set up well and interesting local artwork was in the old rooms.
Back to Uspallata for supplies and then we headed east to Mendoza via the very scenic ripio (gravel) track through the mountains - even Charles Darwin had come this way! Passed some great campsites with a view and other interesting points before the termas (thermal springs) from where the road was sealed.
We took a turn on to a gravel road to find a camp but unfortunately the rangers came by and said we couldn’t camp in the park. We drove on closer to Mendoza.
More winding dirt roads but the scenery is worth it.
30, 31 March, 1 April Mendoza
Good Friday, so it was very quiet as we drove into Mendoza and parked easily about a block away from the Plaza Italia. The only ‘problem’ for driving and parking was all the tree-lined streets, but they made for a cooler city in the 30+C temperatures. A short walking tour of the plazas and the Basilica de San Francisco which was fenced off and closed. Surprising for Good Friday. People were kneeling on the entry steps.
Having decided to spend a couple of days relaxing in this grape and olive region we camped at Calvieres Posada (B&B) in the vineyards. Very pleasant and close to many wineries and olive groves.
Our fridge had stopped working which we mentioned to Hans the owner of the posada. Alberto, a friend who was visiting Hans offered to look at the fridge. He tested it and it seems we will have to send away for a part or bring the part with us when we return next year. So no refriferation for our last weeks.
Good Friday, so it was very quiet as we drove into Mendoza and parked easily about a block away from the Plaza Italia. The only ‘problem’ for driving and parking was all the tree-lined streets, but they made for a cooler city in the 30+C temperatures. A short walking tour of the plazas and the Basilica de San Francisco which was fenced off and closed. Surprising for Good Friday. People were kneeling on the entry steps.
Having decided to spend a couple of days relaxing in this grape and olive region we camped at Calvieres Posada (B&B) in the vineyards. Very pleasant and close to many wineries and olive groves.
Our fridge had stopped working which we mentioned to Hans the owner of the posada. Alberto, a friend who was visiting Hans offered to look at the fridge. He tested it and it seems we will have to send away for a part or bring the part with us when we return next year. So no refriferation for our last weeks.
A very nice lunch with starters, salads, roasted vegetables and finally the meat from the parilla at a nearby posada followed our visit to Alberto’s workshop. Later we visited Nobile, a family run olive grove and the Frutta Roja farm and family condiments business making various pestos, chutneys etc. Lots of tasting to decide which products we would like to come away with.
Feeling refreshed and chomping into the chocolate Easter egg from Hans we continued east.
Feeling refreshed and chomping into the chocolate Easter egg from Hans we continued east.
The smell of the home-made bread and roasted butterflied chicken was too much. We had to buy some.
2, 3, 4 April
We visited San Luis, passed through the touristy, green Villa Dolores area and then just before Cordoba we camped at Quebrada del Condorito National Park for a day of hiking to the condor lookout. But only one to be seen.
Next morning we saw them flying close by as we drove down the ranges and stopped to watch them more closely. There were at least 10 condors!
We drove around Cordoba and then north to Jesus Maria and Santa Catalina, both of which have Jesuit buildings up to 400 years ago.
We visited San Luis, passed through the touristy, green Villa Dolores area and then just before Cordoba we camped at Quebrada del Condorito National Park for a day of hiking to the condor lookout. But only one to be seen.
Next morning we saw them flying close by as we drove down the ranges and stopped to watch them more closely. There were at least 10 condors!
We drove around Cordoba and then north to Jesus Maria and Santa Catalina, both of which have Jesuit buildings up to 400 years ago.
Teatro Miguel Young
5 - 8 April
Well on the wind down now as we head towards Uruguay where we will store the truck. Travelling via Sante Fe and Parana, we spent a couple of days off before our drive to Gualeguaychu near the Uruguayan border.
9, 10 April
We crossed the Uruguay River from Argentina to Uruguay and camped west of Fray Bentos near the disused OXO factory - now a UNESCO World Heritage 'Industrial Landscape' site.
The industrial complex was built following the development of a factory founded in 1859 to process meat from the lands nearby. The site illustrates the whole process of meat sourcing, processing, packing and dispatching. It includes buildings and equipment of the Liebig Extract of Meat Company (LEMCO), which exported meat extract and corned-beef to the European market from 1865 and the Anglo Meat Packing Plant, which exported frozen meat from 1924. The site contains the entire process of meat production on a global scale as a small village to support the workers and their families.
Main features are the enormous cold storage building and tall brick, boiler chimney which punctuate a range of saw-toothed roofs. The office area has been left untouched for the last 50 years and the area, respected by the locals is devoid of any graffiti. Here German research and technology combined with English enterprise provided food for a global market including the armies of two World Wars in the 20th century. Workers’ housing and social institutions which accommodated and supported the cosmopolitan workers’ community continue in use today.
Well on the wind down now as we head towards Uruguay where we will store the truck. Travelling via Sante Fe and Parana, we spent a couple of days off before our drive to Gualeguaychu near the Uruguayan border.
9, 10 April
We crossed the Uruguay River from Argentina to Uruguay and camped west of Fray Bentos near the disused OXO factory - now a UNESCO World Heritage 'Industrial Landscape' site.
The industrial complex was built following the development of a factory founded in 1859 to process meat from the lands nearby. The site illustrates the whole process of meat sourcing, processing, packing and dispatching. It includes buildings and equipment of the Liebig Extract of Meat Company (LEMCO), which exported meat extract and corned-beef to the European market from 1865 and the Anglo Meat Packing Plant, which exported frozen meat from 1924. The site contains the entire process of meat production on a global scale as a small village to support the workers and their families.
Main features are the enormous cold storage building and tall brick, boiler chimney which punctuate a range of saw-toothed roofs. The office area has been left untouched for the last 50 years and the area, respected by the locals is devoid of any graffiti. Here German research and technology combined with English enterprise provided food for a global market including the armies of two World Wars in the 20th century. Workers’ housing and social institutions which accommodated and supported the cosmopolitan workers’ community continue in use today.
11 - 13 April
From Fray Bentos we drove towards Colonia del Sacramento where we wanted to speak to a mechanic about our 4WD locking up and also confirm storage of the truck until next year.
All sorted we camped on the foreshore at Colonia for a couple of nights. On a clear day we could see the skyscrapers of Buenos Aires on the horizon 55kms away to the south.
Final day with the truck was spent packing and cleaning prior to the mechanic doing a service on it. Then off to the storage shed.
From Fray Bentos we drove towards Colonia del Sacramento where we wanted to speak to a mechanic about our 4WD locking up and also confirm storage of the truck until next year.
All sorted we camped on the foreshore at Colonia for a couple of nights. On a clear day we could see the skyscrapers of Buenos Aires on the horizon 55kms away to the south.
Final day with the truck was spent packing and cleaning prior to the mechanic doing a service on it. Then off to the storage shed.
How to tell where I live.
14, 15 April
Two days to kick back and enjoy the historic quarter of Colonia del Sacramento.
Founded by the Portuguese in 1680 on the Río de la Plata, the city was of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. After being disputed for a century, it was finally lost by its founders. The well-preserved urban landscape illustrates the successful fusion of the Portuguese, Spanish and post-colonial styles.
Two days to kick back and enjoy the historic quarter of Colonia del Sacramento.
Founded by the Portuguese in 1680 on the Río de la Plata, the city was of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. After being disputed for a century, it was finally lost by its founders. The well-preserved urban landscape illustrates the successful fusion of the Portuguese, Spanish and post-colonial styles.
16 April
A last stroll around Colonia in beautiful weather before collecting our bags and heading to the Buquebus ferry for the trip to Buenos Aires and a taxi to the airport. Our flight leavs at 1am.
A last stroll around Colonia in beautiful weather before collecting our bags and heading to the Buquebus ferry for the trip to Buenos Aires and a taxi to the airport. Our flight leavs at 1am.