Romania, Bulgaria
25 May 2016
We crossed the border into Romania without delay and headed towards Huedin. Stunned by huge garish houses, we learnt that they were roma palaces, none of which are complete as this would incur taxes. They were mostly empty as well. Headed south into the Apuseni Mountains.
We crossed the border into Romania without delay and headed towards Huedin. Stunned by huge garish houses, we learnt that they were roma palaces, none of which are complete as this would incur taxes. They were mostly empty as well. Headed south into the Apuseni Mountains.
From Huedin we travelled south into the mountains. Around 6pm we started looking for somewhere to camp and decided on a place next to a stream. A man stopped his car and came over. He showed us photos on his phone of views over a scenic, forested, deep valley and indicated that we could follow which we did, off the main road onto a windy, narrow dirt road up the mountain. Arrived at a small holiday house overlooking the valley and just up from that was his small crowded farm compound where he lived with his wife, young son and parents. We indicated we would stay in our camper. Our host left but his father who Guy gave the Slovakian beerstien to then invited us up to the farm compound. Guy returned with home made jams, fetta cheese and raspberry sauce. Back at the truck we scrounged around and Guy returned with a beer, wine and peanut paste which was given to the toddler to taste straight away.
Walking down to look at the holiday house our host has built.
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Scenery on the mountain top.
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Our host got the fire in the holiday house going just so we could have a hot shower. Later we saw him walking up the hill with his herd of goats. Their bells ringing. He invited us to follow and get some goats milk. We declined.
Next morning jingling goats and herder headed downhill and gave us 1.5l of warm goats milk. On returning uphill without his goats, Guy gave the herder a pair of pliers. The very grateful goatherder returned with some homemade cloth we could use for the table. Photos and we were on our way.
Next morning jingling goats and herder headed downhill and gave us 1.5l of warm goats milk. On returning uphill without his goats, Guy gave the herder a pair of pliers. The very grateful goatherder returned with some homemade cloth we could use for the table. Photos and we were on our way.
And this is my inside still...
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26 May
Little did we know that more interesting encounters lay ahead. We continued through the mountains stopping for morning coffee near one of the many dams. Guy was shown the restaurant owners still, both the inside one and the outside one! This was followed by coffee and the local favourite, tripe sour soup. So glad I wasn't hungry. We continued on down the mountain and turned towards Cluj Nacopa when we spied an Isuzu/DAF workshop. Luckily the workshop could change one of the springs now. And the other one could be done tomorrow morning. We camped a few kilometres up the road. |
Our morning coffee stop. Make that our morning coffee and tripe sour soup stop!
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Yummy tripe sour soup.
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We drove into the campsite to see a large stage set up along with a sound system which was being tested. We were greeted by Manfred, a young German guy who volunteers rehousing dogs from a Romanian dog refuge during his holidays. He mentioned that this weekend is the local Transilvania Bikers Fest which he had been coming to for the last 4 years. Fun times by the sound of it. I later met Kangi and her brother, both in their 20s, who organise the fest. Interesting encounters with some really nice Romanian people.
We drove into the campsite to see a large stage set up along with a sound system which was being tested. We were greeted by Manfred, a young German guy who volunteers rehousing dogs from a Romanian dog refuge during his holidays. He mentioned that this weekend is the local Transilvania Bikers Fest which he had been coming to for the last 4 years. Fun times by the sound of it. I later met Kangi and her brother, both in their 20s, who organise the fest. Interesting encounters with some really nice Romanian people.
27, 28 May
Early start for Isuzu to get the other front spring put on and grease the wheel bearings. Then we headed towards the Transfagarasan road which crosses the Carpathians near Fagarans. We learnt the road was still closed due snow and so we camped south of Sibiu at Cisnadioara. Great campsite with terrific views to snow capped mountains in the distance and a fortified church within walking distance. Decided to stay two nights.
Early start for Isuzu to get the other front spring put on and grease the wheel bearings. Then we headed towards the Transfagarasan road which crosses the Carpathians near Fagarans. We learnt the road was still closed due snow and so we camped south of Sibiu at Cisnadioara. Great campsite with terrific views to snow capped mountains in the distance and a fortified church within walking distance. Decided to stay two nights.
Fantastic view from our campsite south of Sibiu.
Pleasant walk in summer weather up to the fortified St Michaels Church built in the late 12th
century. Many young Austrian men from about 16 to 26 years old lost their lives defendng their village here 100 years ago this September. Their headstones have been moved from the village up to St Michaels Church.
century. Many young Austrian men from about 16 to 26 years old lost their lives defendng their village here 100 years ago this September. Their headstones have been moved from the village up to St Michaels Church.
29 May
As it was such a beautiful day we decided to drive through the Fagaras Mountains (part of the southern Carpathians, the highest mountains in Romania) and then on to Carta which is near the transfagarasan road. Many locals were taking advantage of the beautiful weather on this Sunday. They were walking, cycling and picnicking along the streams with their barbecues going, umbrellas up and ready for a swim. We came across a few loggers camps on the way down the mountains.
As it was such a beautiful day we decided to drive through the Fagaras Mountains (part of the southern Carpathians, the highest mountains in Romania) and then on to Carta which is near the transfagarasan road. Many locals were taking advantage of the beautiful weather on this Sunday. They were walking, cycling and picnicking along the streams with their barbecues going, umbrellas up and ready for a swim. We came across a few loggers camps on the way down the mountains.
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I think everyone left at least two car doors open!
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Slashing done for the day. Actually the guy in front looks like he is headless!
30, 31 May
No mowers to wake us up. Just the gentle swishing of the scythes through the long grass. The good weather looked like holding out so we drove to the cable car at the base of the Fagaras Mountains. By the time the cable car got us to the top the weather had started to close in. But we could see the zig zag of the road up and the snow covering it in places.
I think this road was featured in Top Gear.
No mowers to wake us up. Just the gentle swishing of the scythes through the long grass. The good weather looked like holding out so we drove to the cable car at the base of the Fagaras Mountains. By the time the cable car got us to the top the weather had started to close in. But we could see the zig zag of the road up and the snow covering it in places.
I think this road was featured in Top Gear.
Info on the cable car said it takes 10 people. There seemed to be no problem with 16 when we went up.
Camping on the shepherds lot next to the national park.
We realized that one of the springs had been fitted back to front and so we went to the Brasov workshop to get it repaired. They coudn't do us until Wednesday and so we camped near a forest in a goatherders lot for 2 nights. We spent a day hiking in the forest and enjoying the surrounds.
1 June
We arrive at the workshop just before 8am but they were in no hurry to start. But when they did the job was done quickly, well and at minimal cost. Our next destination was the Daube delta, Delta Dunarii.
Slight scare as we were driving on a narrow country road when a car slowed suddenly in front of us at the same time as we were being passed by a semi trailer. Nothing happenend but a reminder about how easy accidents can happen.
We arrive at the workshop just before 8am but they were in no hurry to start. But when they did the job was done quickly, well and at minimal cost. Our next destination was the Daube delta, Delta Dunarii.
Slight scare as we were driving on a narrow country road when a car slowed suddenly in front of us at the same time as we were being passed by a semi trailer. Nothing happenend but a reminder about how easy accidents can happen.
Amazing European cyclists, older than us.
2, 3 June Murighiol
Packed up in showery weather and drove through Braila to catch the ferry across the Danube. We shared the ferry with some huge semi trailers, trucks, vans and 2 cyclists. It was interesting to watch the first semi get the revs up to climb on to the off ramp.
Packed up in showery weather and drove through Braila to catch the ferry across the Danube. We shared the ferry with some huge semi trailers, trucks, vans and 2 cyclists. It was interesting to watch the first semi get the revs up to climb on to the off ramp.
Street signs in Macin.
Stopped off in Tulchea to check out ferries/boat trips to the delta and also get a pass to go into the delta. From there we drove further south to the town of Murighiol where we stayed in a delightful campground for two nights.
4 June Danube Delta
At 7am we left with an Austrian couple and our guide Dan for a few hours on the delta. We saw several bird species including herons, grebes, cormorants, pelicans, hoopoes, terns and egrets as well as frogs in amongst the water lillies and reed beds.
We drove around to some marshlands near Vadu where we camped and watched more birds and a vanload of birdwatchers.
At 7am we left with an Austrian couple and our guide Dan for a few hours on the delta. We saw several bird species including herons, grebes, cormorants, pelicans, hoopoes, terns and egrets as well as frogs in amongst the water lillies and reed beds.
We drove around to some marshlands near Vadu where we camped and watched more birds and a vanload of birdwatchers.
Typical countryside and roads in southern Romania south of the delta on our way to the Bulgarian border
5, 6 June Near Veliko Tarnovo
Up early but we spent nearly an hour watching the birds and listening to some very different sounding frogs before we finally left the delta and headed to the Bulgarian border.
Over the border we bought a 7 day road pass for €21.
Up early but we spent nearly an hour watching the birds and listening to some very different sounding frogs before we finally left the delta and headed to the Bulgarian border.
Over the border we bought a 7 day road pass for €21.
We were heading to Veliko Tarnovo which was nearly 300 kms away on many slow roads. A lot of broadacre farming of wheat and sunflowers and many poppies and other wildflowers blooming on the roadsides as in Romania. Storks love to nest on the power poles too.
We saw locals stopped on the roadside and noticed they were picking cherries. So we stopped too and picked about a kilogram of very juicy cherries.
It was a long day with about 7 hours of driving so it was nice to pull up to a campsite with good facilities a few kilometres out of Veliko Tarnovo.
We saw locals stopped on the roadside and noticed they were picking cherries. So we stopped too and picked about a kilogram of very juicy cherries.
It was a long day with about 7 hours of driving so it was nice to pull up to a campsite with good facilities a few kilometres out of Veliko Tarnovo.
Bulgaria
The medieval fortress Tsarevets
Veliko Tarnovo, the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire from 1185 - 1393 is situated on the tops of forested hills around which the river Yantra flows. Overlooking it from Tsarevets are the castle ruins and restored church and ruins of a large village inside the walls.
Lovely place to wander around but more time was spent indoors looking across the valleys than outside due to the showery weather.
Lovely place to wander around but more time was spent indoors looking across the valleys than outside due to the showery weather.
7 June
Another big day of driving. We passed through a national reserve with excellent roads and the border crossing into Turkey.
Although a truck we do not carry any goods and so we and the authorities at the border class us as a motorhome. Otherwise I think we would still be waiting in the 9 km queue.
Another big day of driving. We passed through a national reserve with excellent roads and the border crossing into Turkey.
Although a truck we do not carry any goods and so we and the authorities at the border class us as a motorhome. Otherwise I think we would still be waiting in the 9 km queue.
Nine kilometers of trucks waiting to cross the border from Bulgaria into Turkey.