Argentina and Paraguay
17 - 21 March 2019
With our Argentine Temporary Import Permit (TIP) in hand we completed the border crossing and found a comfortable camp on the shores of the Salto Grande dam reservoir just north of Concordia.
With our Argentine Temporary Import Permit (TIP) in hand we completed the border crossing and found a comfortable camp on the shores of the Salto Grande dam reservoir just north of Concordia.
Salto dam reservoir lifesaver lookout. A string of buoys about 10 metres out marked the limit of the swimming area. The water could not have been more than waist depth.
Garbo in Concordia
Next morning we continued north towards Mercedes.
Guy pulled the fridge out to see why it was not working properly even though he had put a new electronic power unit in. The problem was no gas because of a cracked copper pipe - probably the result of corrugations on RN 40 last year! Next to find someone to do the work. The tourist info man at Mercedes was helpful finding someone for us despite no common language and four hours later we had a functioning fridge!!!!!
After waiting until 5pm for siesta to finish, my hat shopping in Mercedes could finally happen. Satisfied, food shopping for our fridge was next before happily driving off towards the western side of the Iberá wetlands.
Guy pulled the fridge out to see why it was not working properly even though he had put a new electronic power unit in. The problem was no gas because of a cracked copper pipe - probably the result of corrugations on RN 40 last year! Next to find someone to do the work. The tourist info man at Mercedes was helpful finding someone for us despite no common language and four hours later we had a functioning fridge!!!!!
After waiting until 5pm for siesta to finish, my hat shopping in Mercedes could finally happen. Satisfied, food shopping for our fridge was next before happily driving off towards the western side of the Iberá wetlands.
Trucks take their load about 2 hours away as gaucho and dog take the softer path to the cattle station.
Many, many logging trucks removing timber from the massive pine and eucalypt plantations plied the road leading north to Concepción. Cattle and horses were also wandering through the wetlands. This area is just outside the park, south of Concepción, but we still came across interesting birds, the occasional capybura, marsh deer and crocodile.
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22, 23 March
Mburucuyá National Park Interesting drive through cattle farming and wetlands where locals were fishing from a bridge with the policia watching on. Then we turned north to Mburucuya NP and more clear streams, fish, caiman and birds in the wetlands. Unbelievable camp ground with a grand entrance lined with eucalypts and mown lawns. The old buildings some from the 1940s had been well preserved in memory of Dr Troels Pederson, a Danish botanist who had studied and classified the botany of the area and donated the land for the park. The main building contained the old research area, storage, school room, kitchen and even the bedroom with surrounding areas housing a guest wing with meeting areas, refrigeration and facilities, slaughter house, maintenance sheds, stables and the infrastructure to support a settlement of up to 50 families. |
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There are a few trails in the area but we could only walk a short distance on them due to recent summer rains. Yatay palms surround the wetlands. Many birds, capybara, small caiman, foxes brockets (small deer), marsh deer, guinea pigs, armadillos, river otters and brown howler monkeys which we heard in the distance inhabit the area.
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24, 25 March
Our next stop was San Nicolas in the Iberá wetlands but first more plantations and cattle properties to drive through on wet, muddy tracks. 
Rounding up horses.
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Milking the sap into plastic bags.
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Once again the national park ranger and camping areas were immaculate and free.
Many capybaras rested on the road in the sun as we approached and were in no hurry to move. These marsupials are the largest living rodent weighing up to 66 kgs and although slow and cumbersome looking, they are fast in the water where they can hold their breath up to five minutes and then remain under the water with just their nostrils protruding.
Saw quite a range of birds including the larger maguari and wood storks and enjoyed a relaxing time at Carambole River just observing.
Saw quite a range of birds including the larger maguari and wood storks and enjoyed a relaxing time at Carambole River just observing.
Below is a series of photos of the southern screamer, a large marsh bird.
Paraguay
26, 27 March
Enough wildlife, time for a new country and some Jesuit ruins. Northwards to Ituzaingo and then when we couldn't cross the border there we drove further east to cross at Posades, Argentina to Encarnacion, Paraguay. The Jesuit ruins are at Trinidad, about 30 kms north.
We arrived in Trinidad shortly before Claire and Don from Darwin arrived on their KTM 520/525 bikes. Adventurous and energetic couple who have already covered the southern part of South America.
Enough wildlife, time for a new country and some Jesuit ruins. Northwards to Ituzaingo and then when we couldn't cross the border there we drove further east to cross at Posades, Argentina to Encarnacion, Paraguay. The Jesuit ruins are at Trinidad, about 30 kms north.
We arrived in Trinidad shortly before Claire and Don from Darwin arrived on their KTM 520/525 bikes. Adventurous and energetic couple who have already covered the southern part of South America.
Don and Claire from Darwin riding around South America on their NT registered bikes. We had to come all the way to Paraguay to meet them!
The Santísima Trinidad del Paraná Mission is considered the biggest of all the missions. It was founded by Jesuit missionaries in 1706 and lasted until the withdrawal of the Jesuits in 1767.
This mission has the biggest built temple among all the Jesuit Missions. It has the remains of a Central Square, rows of housing for the indigenous guarani, bell tower, a school, trade worhshops, gardens and a smaller temple.
The grounds are well maintained and there is work continuing on the site.
This mission has the biggest built temple among all the Jesuit Missions. It has the remains of a Central Square, rows of housing for the indigenous guarani, bell tower, a school, trade worhshops, gardens and a smaller temple.
The grounds are well maintained and there is work continuing on the site.
Hard to give an idea of the immensity of this settlement.
28 - 31 March
Having decided to go towards Ascunsion on RN 6 and then RN 8, all went well until Yuty where we unknowingly drove off on the old RN 8 until we came across this collapsed earth and timber bridge. So we had no option but to return for an hour on the unmaintained dirt road. We found a new two laned sealed road a few kilometres to the west.
Police were stopping vehicles randomly for breathtesting of the drivers. Yes we were stopped. Yes we were fine when they realized the driver was on the other side of the vehicle.
Having decided to go towards Ascunsion on RN 6 and then RN 8, all went well until Yuty where we unknowingly drove off on the old RN 8 until we came across this collapsed earth and timber bridge. So we had no option but to return for an hour on the unmaintained dirt road. We found a new two laned sealed road a few kilometres to the west.
Police were stopping vehicles randomly for breathtesting of the drivers. Yes we were stopped. Yes we were fine when they realized the driver was on the other side of the vehicle.
Passing the locals on our return. They must have thought we were mad.
Near Asunción is Itauguá, the home of the indigenous ñanduti lace work. We stopped to have a look at the work and I noticed examples of it everywhere. Fabric is stretched in a frame and then the thread is anchored to the material at the edges. It is then worked on quite elaborately, starched and then the material is cut away from the anchor points.
And then to a comfy campsite overlooking a lake for 3 days of relaxing, washing, maintenance, reading and beetrax catch up. Oh and swimming in the beautiful pool in the 30 degree heat.
Beautiful pool and so was the temperature of the water.
Argentina
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1, 2 April
It was raining as we left Paraguay and headed south back into Argentina where it was also raining. Arrived at the very muddy entrance to Chaco NP and so checked with the local tourist info about entering. They assured us it was fine and there were rangers on site so we proceeded. The road actually got better but the mosquiitoes arrived in droves. Settled in and did the only walk that was open which was disappointing. However there were some interesting birds to watch around the campsite and we could hear the distant roaring sound of the howler monkeys. Guy cooked some smoked sausage over the fire places provided. |
Crossing over the Paraguay River to Argentina with Asunción in the distance.
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Tasty dinner
Next morning we could hear the howler monkeys getting closer and then heard another group approaching from the other direction. From our camp we could see tree branches moving but not the monkeys but when we left we saw the other group who were right above where we drove out, all settled and quietly eating.
4 - 7 April Salta
The clear skies and warm weather had returned until our arrival in Salta when a late afternoon thunderstorm complete with small hail unleashed itself on us. Despite the weather we still managed to socialise with other overlanders in camp. We were lucky enough to meet Emil and Liliana who hold the Guinness World Record for the Longest Driven Journey; 35yrs 186 countries and is still going in their old blue Landcruiser.
Unfortunately Guy was unwell with a high temperature (smoked sausage? ) so a few days rest taken before visiting the beautiful Spanish colonial buildings in the town centre.
The clear skies and warm weather had returned until our arrival in Salta when a late afternoon thunderstorm complete with small hail unleashed itself on us. Despite the weather we still managed to socialise with other overlanders in camp. We were lucky enough to meet Emil and Liliana who hold the Guinness World Record for the Longest Driven Journey; 35yrs 186 countries and is still going in their old blue Landcruiser.
Unfortunately Guy was unwell with a high temperature (smoked sausage? ) so a few days rest taken before visiting the beautiful Spanish colonial buildings in the town centre.
After a 10 minute taxi ride we were in the centre of town at the Plaza 9 de Julio. Many more tourists and tourist shops than we had seen for a while. It was a beautiful morning to stroll around the centre and admire the Spanish architecture, the churches and also visit the Museum of the High Mountains.
The museum presents information about human sacrifices at high altitude shrines by the Incas. In particular it follows the excavation of three mummies of children and the items buried with them from the top of a 20,000ft mountain in the 1990s. The body of the boy was displayed when we were there and it was interesting and moving to see.
The museum presents information about human sacrifices at high altitude shrines by the Incas. In particular it follows the excavation of three mummies of children and the items buried with them from the top of a 20,000ft mountain in the 1990s. The body of the boy was displayed when we were there and it was interesting and moving to see.
8 – 11 April Cafayate, Cachin
The good weather continued as we drove south about 170km to Cafayate. The countryside became drier as the road wound through spectacular rock formations and colours.
As we neared Cafayate, grapes and bodegas started to abound. This is a large wine area with the white torrentes grape being prevalent. Cafayate is a pretty town visited by tourists doing the wine circuit from Salta.
While here we learnt that Ruta 40 which we were to take north and across to Chile was closed due to a 200 metre rockslide. So we decided to head back to Salta from Cachin which is our next destination.
The good weather continued as we drove south about 170km to Cafayate. The countryside became drier as the road wound through spectacular rock formations and colours.
As we neared Cafayate, grapes and bodegas started to abound. This is a large wine area with the white torrentes grape being prevalent. Cafayate is a pretty town visited by tourists doing the wine circuit from Salta.
While here we learnt that Ruta 40 which we were to take north and across to Chile was closed due to a 200 metre rockslide. So we decided to head back to Salta from Cachin which is our next destination.
12 April
As we had noticed many restaurants in Cachi we decided to have breakfast at one. Although pleasant and the coffee was a lot better than the norm in Argentina, they weren't really a cooked breakfast place. So back to coffee and medialunas which are very nice, small croissants sold everywhere in Argentina and sometimes filled with dulce de leche, caramel.
As we had noticed many restaurants in Cachi we decided to have breakfast at one. Although pleasant and the coffee was a lot better than the norm in Argentina, they weren't really a cooked breakfast place. So back to coffee and medialunas which are very nice, small croissants sold everywhere in Argentina and sometimes filled with dulce de leche, caramel.
There was more stunning countryside as we left Cuchi and drove east across the mountains towards Salta. Behind us were snow-capped 16,000 – 20,000 ft (5000m - 6000m) peaks and in front of us the mountains were lower but still over 10,000ft (3300m). We drove across a huge plain, slowly climbimg, with cardones (large Mexican candelabra type cactus). Finally we reached the top, only to find the other side was completely in fog. It gradually dissipated the lower we got. As we neared the end of the descent the land flattened out to farming cattle and vegetables.
We diverted around Salta and continued to the north. The last section was on a road 4m wide with police stopping cars, trucks and utes prior to letting them move on if they felt it would be too dangerous to proceed. We are 2.2 m wide but were allowed to proceed. We camped beside a reservoir about an hour to the north of Salta.
We diverted around Salta and continued to the north. The last section was on a road 4m wide with police stopping cars, trucks and utes prior to letting them move on if they felt it would be too dangerous to proceed. We are 2.2 m wide but were allowed to proceed. We camped beside a reservoir about an hour to the north of Salta.
Bromeliads, orchids and ferns adorn many of the trees and rockfaces.
13 April
We planned to cross from Argentina to Chile via the Jama Pass, today or tomorrow.
A beautiful morning drive through the forest along a narrow, sealed, winding road which was still only 4 metres wide lasted an hour or so. Saturday morning cyclists even passed us on the downhill section.
We planned to cross from Argentina to Chile via the Jama Pass, today or tomorrow.
A beautiful morning drive through the forest along a narrow, sealed, winding road which was still only 4 metres wide lasted an hour or so. Saturday morning cyclists even passed us on the downhill section.
We drove up the main highway to the north passing around San Salvador de Jujuy before turning off onto RN52. The road to the Jama Pass.
14 April
After a cold, clear night at 11,450'/3500m near the salt lake we drove to the border post about 50 kms away.
Farewell Argentina
After a cold, clear night at 11,450'/3500m near the salt lake we drove to the border post about 50 kms away.
Farewell Argentina