Morocco
2, 3 May 2015
We look across the sea to a heavy fog, adding to the mystique of Africa.
We arrive at the Moroccan port of Tanger-Med and wait in line at Customs with some very overloaded vehicles. We finally fill out the required paperwork before proceeding. All ok, they didn't even want to see inside the vehicle. But then one policeman noticed that the world maps stuck on the sides of the truck have Western Sahara marked in a different colour to Morocco. Morocco has occupied most of Western Sahara for many years but ownership is still disputed as we had learnt from a refugee and graffiti in Spain. We didn't realize what the policeman was on about for a while as the countries are so small on the map but the policeman sure had and he started to tear the map off. So off the maps came.
Meanwhile most Moroccans are very friendly and saying 'Welcome to Morocco'. No doubt a phrase they have learnt at school.
We look across the sea to a heavy fog, adding to the mystique of Africa.
We arrive at the Moroccan port of Tanger-Med and wait in line at Customs with some very overloaded vehicles. We finally fill out the required paperwork before proceeding. All ok, they didn't even want to see inside the vehicle. But then one policeman noticed that the world maps stuck on the sides of the truck have Western Sahara marked in a different colour to Morocco. Morocco has occupied most of Western Sahara for many years but ownership is still disputed as we had learnt from a refugee and graffiti in Spain. We didn't realize what the policeman was on about for a while as the countries are so small on the map but the policeman sure had and he started to tear the map off. So off the maps came.
Meanwhile most Moroccans are very friendly and saying 'Welcome to Morocco'. No doubt a phrase they have learnt at school.
Somehow we ended up in amongst these vastly overloaded vehicles at Moroccan Customs.
|
Most had to completely unload. We were lucky in that they didn't even want to see inside the truck but the maps on the sides of our truck had to go.
|
North coast of Morocco on our way east from Tanger-Med.
The beach at Martil with the Rif Mountains in the background.
From the port we drove east passed the Spanish enclave of Ceuta and down the coast to Martil, a Moroccan seaside resort town. It was very busy there in the evenings as many Moroccans walk along the beach or have a mint tea and watch the passing parade. We had our first meal cooked in a tagine. It was ok but I am looking forward to better.
4, 5, 6 May - Chefchaouen
From Martil we drove inland and then south to Chefchaouen with the Rif Mountains to our east. Enjoyed some down time in the violet coloured town of Chefchaouen on the side of the Rif Mountains.
Guy has fixed the roof and we can now stand tall in the truck after 4 weeks.
From Martil we drove inland and then south to Chefchaouen with the Rif Mountains to our east. Enjoyed some down time in the violet coloured town of Chefchaouen on the side of the Rif Mountains.
Guy has fixed the roof and we can now stand tall in the truck after 4 weeks.
The countryside north of Volubilis is still quite productive.
What have they done to our gum trees?
7 May
We drove south to Volubilis which housed 20,000 people in the 2nd and 3rd centuries when it was one of the Roman Empire's most remote outposts. It was responsible for grain production. There are some impressive mosaics there as well as some reconstructed ruins. It is quite large, 40 hectares and only about half has been renovated.
We camped in a nearby olive grove.
We drove south to Volubilis which housed 20,000 people in the 2nd and 3rd centuries when it was one of the Roman Empire's most remote outposts. It was responsible for grain production. There are some impressive mosaics there as well as some reconstructed ruins. It is quite large, 40 hectares and only about half has been renovated.
We camped in a nearby olive grove.
Moulay Idriss with the green roofed mausoleum.
8, 9, 10 May - Fez
We left early to see the village of Moulay Idriss named for the mausoleum of Moulay Idriss which is there. Non-muslims are not allowed in to the mausoleum but a local showed us around the town, at a price. It is a good view over the town towards Volubilis from the grande terrasse. Then on to Meknes, one of the four imperial cities along with Fez, Rabat and Marakesh. The city has 25 kilometres of walls and many gates, some of which we drove through, just. It was Friday and so pretty quiet as that is the day of prayer and a day off for Muslims. After lunch overlooking the main square we drove on to Fes.
We left early to see the village of Moulay Idriss named for the mausoleum of Moulay Idriss which is there. Non-muslims are not allowed in to the mausoleum but a local showed us around the town, at a price. It is a good view over the town towards Volubilis from the grande terrasse. Then on to Meknes, one of the four imperial cities along with Fez, Rabat and Marakesh. The city has 25 kilometres of walls and many gates, some of which we drove through, just. It was Friday and so pretty quiet as that is the day of prayer and a day off for Muslims. After lunch overlooking the main square we drove on to Fes.
No yellow unimogs, Guy!
We had a day off for maintenance and cleanng before tackling the Fez medina with a short guided tour. Of course the guide has to take you to a carpet shop at some stage.
We also saw the tannery where the hides are first soaked in diluted acidic pigeon poo, the white receptacles and then transferred to other vessels containing vegetable dyes such as henna, saffron and mint. When the dying process has been completed the hides are dried on the roofs of the Medina. The viewing areas are conveniently placed at the back of leather shops. We managed to exit the 3 levels of leather shops with our wallets intact. Saw mosques, fountains, medersas and various souqs but it was the medina life which was so amazing. No cars or bikes can go into the medina due to the narrow laneways and steps, so transport is by donkeys and mules. They transport everything from soft drinks to building materials into the medina.
We also saw the tannery where the hides are first soaked in diluted acidic pigeon poo, the white receptacles and then transferred to other vessels containing vegetable dyes such as henna, saffron and mint. When the dying process has been completed the hides are dried on the roofs of the Medina. The viewing areas are conveniently placed at the back of leather shops. We managed to exit the 3 levels of leather shops with our wallets intact. Saw mosques, fountains, medersas and various souqs but it was the medina life which was so amazing. No cars or bikes can go into the medina due to the narrow laneways and steps, so transport is by donkeys and mules. They transport everything from soft drinks to building materials into the medina.
11, 12 May
Time to relax in the cedar tree forest with a short foray to Azrou where it was market day.
Time to relax in the cedar tree forest with a short foray to Azrou where it was market day.
13, 14 May
We drove south to Ziz Gorge and then west from Er-Rich towards Imilchil before heading south on a 4WD track towards Dades Gorge. The drive down the Dades Gorge turned out to be one of the most spectacular we have experienced. Scary at times as it was just a narrow, rocky track up to 9,570 feet on the side of mountains but the scenery was fantastic. We had to back up to get around a couple of the hairpin bends. At times my toes were curled, stomach muscles tight and hands holding tightly to the truck with even looking straight ahead being frightening as the road seemed to disappear. I was on the side closest to the drop.
We drove south to Ziz Gorge and then west from Er-Rich towards Imilchil before heading south on a 4WD track towards Dades Gorge. The drive down the Dades Gorge turned out to be one of the most spectacular we have experienced. Scary at times as it was just a narrow, rocky track up to 9,570 feet on the side of mountains but the scenery was fantastic. We had to back up to get around a couple of the hairpin bends. At times my toes were curled, stomach muscles tight and hands holding tightly to the truck with even looking straight ahead being frightening as the road seemed to disappear. I was on the side closest to the drop.
Some really incredible scenery.
You can just see the kasbah at the base of the rock.
15 May
The narrowest part of Dades Gorge was only 50 metres from our campsite. So we walked through and then drove east towards Todra Gorge. It was a dry, dusty, flat plain.
We found that our campground near Todra Gorge happened to back on to the palmeraie. So we crossed the small stream, entered the palmeriae and had a very cool walk on the sand crossing water channels between the palms, citrus, olives, mint and other small crops. We eventually made it to the kasbah ruins overlooking the area.
The narrowest part of Dades Gorge was only 50 metres from our campsite. So we walked through and then drove east towards Todra Gorge. It was a dry, dusty, flat plain.
We found that our campground near Todra Gorge happened to back on to the palmeraie. So we crossed the small stream, entered the palmeriae and had a very cool walk on the sand crossing water channels between the palms, citrus, olives, mint and other small crops. We eventually made it to the kasbah ruins overlooking the area.
16 May
The next destination was Zagora to the south but we stopped at Alnif to check out some trilobites along the way. We enjoyed a filling pleasant brochette lunch also.
The temperatures were getting higher, close to 40C in the dry heat so we decided on an overnight stay in a kasbah, backing onto the palm groves. We were welcomed with a mint tea. It's always very strong as they fill half the cup with sprigs of mint and then pour hot water over it. Inside the mudbrick walls there were 6 rooms for guests and several sitting rooms with seats and cushions about and dining on the roof. The adobe, mud brick and straw building was very comfortable. They had replaced most of the garden with a small pool which was great to cool off in.
The next destination was Zagora to the south but we stopped at Alnif to check out some trilobites along the way. We enjoyed a filling pleasant brochette lunch also.
The temperatures were getting higher, close to 40C in the dry heat so we decided on an overnight stay in a kasbah, backing onto the palm groves. We were welcomed with a mint tea. It's always very strong as they fill half the cup with sprigs of mint and then pour hot water over it. Inside the mudbrick walls there were 6 rooms for guests and several sitting rooms with seats and cushions about and dining on the roof. The adobe, mud brick and straw building was very comfortable. They had replaced most of the garden with a small pool which was great to cool off in.
The water temperature was just right.
|
Chicken tagine and Moroccan salad for our rooftop dining experience.
|
Meals
Guy has been doing all the cooking which he does extremely well. There is plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables in most villages and the Moroccans there are pretty honest. We are given a plastic bowl to put our purchases in and then the whole lot is weighed. We never seem to pay more than 20 dirham ($2.60) for enough fruit and veges for a couple of meals. We shopped in a big western style supermarket in Fez and stocked up on tins and meat there. (Guy even bought preserved lemons which then went into a delicious Moroccan chicken which was accompanied by a Moroccan salad.) But we can also buy toothpaste, detergent etc at small shops and meat at butchers in the towns. No pork or alcohol of course. Refrigeration in the truck consists of 2 drawers, the top larger drawer is a freezer and the bottom is a fridge so we can carry quite a bit of frozen meat and fish and even make our own ice! We also eat locally. Brochette, barbecued skewered meat, is a favourite. It is normally served with chips and bread for less than $10 each although at Alnif it included bottled water, dessert of fresh fruit and mint tea for $8. And of course there is always tagine which must be ordered in advance if there is meat in it.
Guy has been doing all the cooking which he does extremely well. There is plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables in most villages and the Moroccans there are pretty honest. We are given a plastic bowl to put our purchases in and then the whole lot is weighed. We never seem to pay more than 20 dirham ($2.60) for enough fruit and veges for a couple of meals. We shopped in a big western style supermarket in Fez and stocked up on tins and meat there. (Guy even bought preserved lemons which then went into a delicious Moroccan chicken which was accompanied by a Moroccan salad.) But we can also buy toothpaste, detergent etc at small shops and meat at butchers in the towns. No pork or alcohol of course. Refrigeration in the truck consists of 2 drawers, the top larger drawer is a freezer and the bottom is a fridge so we can carry quite a bit of frozen meat and fish and even make our own ice! We also eat locally. Brochette, barbecued skewered meat, is a favourite. It is normally served with chips and bread for less than $10 each although at Alnif it included bottled water, dessert of fresh fruit and mint tea for $8. And of course there is always tagine which must be ordered in advance if there is meat in it.
Salmon and paella.
|
Eating locally. 4 brochette each, very nice chips, bread, watermelon and rockmelon and mint tea for 60 dirhams ($7.80) each.
|
Kasbah Taourirt, Ouarzazate
17 May
Left our comfortable abode and headed north. Too hot and windy for the desert and we have plenty of that at home. We travelled via Ouarzazate and the Atlas Film Corporation. Scenes from films such as Ben Hur, Cleopatra (TV series), Asterix and Obelix, Kingdom of Heaven, castle scenes from Game of Thrones and Gladiator have been filmed here.
Left our comfortable abode and headed north. Too hot and windy for the desert and we have plenty of that at home. We travelled via Ouarzazate and the Atlas Film Corporation. Scenes from films such as Ben Hur, Cleopatra (TV series), Asterix and Obelix, Kingdom of Heaven, castle scenes from Game of Thrones and Gladiator have been filmed here.
18, 19 May
After driving north through the High Atlas we spent a relaxing day and 2 nights near Ouzoud Cascades. The campsite run by a Dutch couple and some locals was very comfortable, but we had to keep moving and our next stop was Marrakesh.
After driving north through the High Atlas we spent a relaxing day and 2 nights near Ouzoud Cascades. The campsite run by a Dutch couple and some locals was very comfortable, but we had to keep moving and our next stop was Marrakesh.
Djmaa el-Fna, Marrakesh
20, 21, 22 May - Marrakesh
We arrrived at the campsite which had a very welcome pool and lots of shade. So it was a very pleasant place to relax.
After a morning swim we caught a grand taxi into the medina near the Koutoubia Mosque. We walked through the medina to Maison de la Photographie where there are photos of Morocco from 1870 - 1950. Wandered further and ended up at the Djmaa el-Fna, a huge square which fills with orange juice stalls, street sellers, entertainers, women applying henna (or coal) to hands and lots of food stalls in the evening. The hawkers for the food stalls always seem to hone in on Guy which he seems to enjoy. We ate there but we were disappointed. In fact we found that the Marrakesh medina with the many pushbikes, motor bikes and trikes whizzing through to be not as enjoyable as the Fez medina.
Our last day in Marrakesh was for relaxing and maintenance before heading south.
We arrrived at the campsite which had a very welcome pool and lots of shade. So it was a very pleasant place to relax.
After a morning swim we caught a grand taxi into the medina near the Koutoubia Mosque. We walked through the medina to Maison de la Photographie where there are photos of Morocco from 1870 - 1950. Wandered further and ended up at the Djmaa el-Fna, a huge square which fills with orange juice stalls, street sellers, entertainers, women applying henna (or coal) to hands and lots of food stalls in the evening. The hawkers for the food stalls always seem to hone in on Guy which he seems to enjoy. We ate there but we were disappointed. In fact we found that the Marrakesh medina with the many pushbikes, motor bikes and trikes whizzing through to be not as enjoyable as the Fez medina.
Our last day in Marrakesh was for relaxing and maintenance before heading south.
Some common signs in arabic
23, 24 May
Our plan to head south through Tizi-n-Test was foiled by low cloud and some showers so we diverted to the coast. No use going through mountain passes and narrow roads if you can't see for cloud.
We drove past Agadir on the coast down to the Souss Massa National Park. The area was very dry and barren with some low vegetation. The beach was windy and cold. So it was back to Agadir to camp.
Agadir was destroyed in 1960 by an earthquake which killed 12,000 people, one third of the population. So it has been rebuilt and is a holiday destination and port. Once again we saw the Moroccans walking along the beachfront prominade during the late afternoon and well into the night. There are many restaurants and cafes there.
Our plan to head south through Tizi-n-Test was foiled by low cloud and some showers so we diverted to the coast. No use going through mountain passes and narrow roads if you can't see for cloud.
We drove past Agadir on the coast down to the Souss Massa National Park. The area was very dry and barren with some low vegetation. The beach was windy and cold. So it was back to Agadir to camp.
Agadir was destroyed in 1960 by an earthquake which killed 12,000 people, one third of the population. So it has been rebuilt and is a holiday destination and port. Once again we saw the Moroccans walking along the beachfront prominade during the late afternoon and well into the night. There are many restaurants and cafes there.
The Atlantic coast at Souss Massa.
|
Agadir
|
25, 26 May - Essaouira
We have booked the ferry to Genoa in Italy from Tangier on June 1. So we headed up the Atlantic coast with Essaouria being our next stop. Strong winds blow in from the Atlantic Ocean onto the coast and Essaouria is a popular kitesurfing place.
Essaouria is a delightful walled fishing town right on the coast. Very windy on the drive to Essaouria and in Essaouria.
We have booked the ferry to Genoa in Italy from Tangier on June 1. So we headed up the Atlantic coast with Essaouria being our next stop. Strong winds blow in from the Atlantic Ocean onto the coast and Essaouria is a popular kitesurfing place.
Essaouria is a delightful walled fishing town right on the coast. Very windy on the drive to Essaouria and in Essaouria.
Essaouria
27 May
We drove along the windswept coastline passing fishermen selling their catch and farmers drying seaweed. There were not many cars on the road at all.
We drove along the windswept coastline passing fishermen selling their catch and farmers drying seaweed. There were not many cars on the road at all.
The Bee is just beyond the headland only metres from the rocky edge with the waves smashing against the rocks.
|
We faced directly into the Atlantic sunset.
|
The threatened Moroccan spadefoot toad.
We had a great freecamp right on the ocean. It was windy and the seas were crashing into the rocky shore below. A few fishermen with very long rods were casting out into the surf from the rocks but they disappeared as night fell.
After dark I went outside and saw this rather large toad. Research revealed that it was a Moroccan spadefoot toad threatened due to loss of habitat. It is a burrowing toad.
After dark I went outside and saw this rather large toad. Research revealed that it was a Moroccan spadefoot toad threatened due to loss of habitat. It is a burrowing toad.
28, 29 May - Casablanca
We headed to Casablanca to meet up with fellow travellers, Lynne and Frank from home. It is always so nice to meet up with friends as well as hear of their experiences.
Together we saw the Hassan II Mosque, the largest mosque in Africa and one of the largest in the world, accomodating 20 000 men in the central prayer area that has a heated floor, 5 000 women in the gallery and a further 80 000 worshippers outside. We also wandered through the medina and checked out some art deco buildings from the French occupation. We had hoped to have coffee inside Rick's Cafe from the old Casablanca movie but it was closed.
We headed to Casablanca to meet up with fellow travellers, Lynne and Frank from home. It is always so nice to meet up with friends as well as hear of their experiences.
Together we saw the Hassan II Mosque, the largest mosque in Africa and one of the largest in the world, accomodating 20 000 men in the central prayer area that has a heated floor, 5 000 women in the gallery and a further 80 000 worshippers outside. We also wandered through the medina and checked out some art deco buildings from the French occupation. We had hoped to have coffee inside Rick's Cafe from the old Casablanca movie but it was closed.
30, 31 May
We drove north to Moulay Bousselham and camped next to a large tidal lagoon with the ocean not far away. The area is a bird sanctuary although we didn't see anything of note. The surf and beaches were beautiful if a little cold and the weather was warm and sunny.
We drove north to Moulay Bousselham and camped next to a large tidal lagoon with the ocean not far away. The area is a bird sanctuary although we didn't see anything of note. The surf and beaches were beautiful if a little cold and the weather was warm and sunny.
1 June
We caught the ferry to Genoa, Italy from Tanger Med, about 40 kms east of Tangiers. As we weren't required to check in until 7.00pm for our 11.00pm departure, we had a leisurely drive along the Moroccan north coast.
Customs checked the many Moroccan vans quite thoroughly and many of us had to go through the scanning machine which meant vacating the vehicle as the square scanning frame ran along the vehicles. During the last check just before we drove onto the ferry, police looked inside the camper. As the ferry departed there were searchlights scanning the sides of the ferry.
We caught the ferry to Genoa, Italy from Tanger Med, about 40 kms east of Tangiers. As we weren't required to check in until 7.00pm for our 11.00pm departure, we had a leisurely drive along the Moroccan north coast.
Customs checked the many Moroccan vans quite thoroughly and many of us had to go through the scanning machine which meant vacating the vehicle as the square scanning frame ran along the vehicles. During the last check just before we drove onto the ferry, police looked inside the camper. As the ferry departed there were searchlights scanning the sides of the ferry.
Boarding the ferry at Tanger Med, near Tangiers for Genoa in Italy.