Brazil
22 June 2017
Exited Uruguay without even knowing it or being stopped. However when we had to pay for diesel in reais we knew we would have to go back and have the truck documents cancelled and our passports stamped. The Brazilian entry was a 'must stop' area with a border policewoman wearing zebra skin patterned tights, black boots, border police jacket and Ray Bans making sure we stopped. Computers down and so it was almost an hour before we were on our way.
As we drove further north along the coast we were surprised to come across a large coastal wetland area, Taim Wetlands, where we saw our first capybaras - a wombat/guinea pig creature that is comfortable in the water and on land. The area had birds and caiman as well but as we drove further north it became cattle with capybaras feeding amoungst them.
Exited Uruguay without even knowing it or being stopped. However when we had to pay for diesel in reais we knew we would have to go back and have the truck documents cancelled and our passports stamped. The Brazilian entry was a 'must stop' area with a border policewoman wearing zebra skin patterned tights, black boots, border police jacket and Ray Bans making sure we stopped. Computers down and so it was almost an hour before we were on our way.
As we drove further north along the coast we were surprised to come across a large coastal wetland area, Taim Wetlands, where we saw our first capybaras - a wombat/guinea pig creature that is comfortable in the water and on land. The area had birds and caiman as well but as we drove further north it became cattle with capybaras feeding amoungst them.
Taim wetland area in south eastern Brazil.
23 - 25 June Travelling up the Brazilian Coast
A morning drive through Rio Grande eventually took us to the ferry terminal. The ferries, loaded with many trucks, cars and buses seemed to sail close to the waterline but our crossing was fine. Many men took advantage of the fact that we were a captive audience for photos and discussion. Unfortunately our Portuguese was equivalent to their English but a friendly interchange all the same.
A morning drive through Rio Grande eventually took us to the ferry terminal. The ferries, loaded with many trucks, cars and buses seemed to sail close to the waterline but our crossing was fine. Many men took advantage of the fact that we were a captive audience for photos and discussion. Unfortunately our Portuguese was equivalent to their English but a friendly interchange all the same.
Garopaba
Days off are always good as the number of chores, checks and maintenance is ongoing. So we try to choose somewhere that is safe, comfortable with good internet or a nice bush camp. A campsite on the coast at Garopaba looked like the answer. On arrival we learnt that it was closed, off season, but they allowed us to stay. Our campsite overlooked the beach, weather was warm and sunny but the wind came up on our day off and blasted. After the second night we headed inland towards the Pantanal.
Great place to check the solar panels Guy.
26, 27 June
Our next destination was Pomerode an area of Brazil with a history of German immigration. Cheryl enjoyed being able to communicate with people with her very basic German. A community area offered camping although we were up the back as preparations were underway for a weekend festival. It was a quaint town where many of the buildings in the centre looked like they had been transplanted from a German village, but they also had a very good German bakery/coffee shop! The traditional Brazilian buffet where you pay per kg for the amount you put on your plate was offered at another bar although German was spoken there too.
Our next destination was Pomerode an area of Brazil with a history of German immigration. Cheryl enjoyed being able to communicate with people with her very basic German. A community area offered camping although we were up the back as preparations were underway for a weekend festival. It was a quaint town where many of the buildings in the centre looked like they had been transplanted from a German village, but they also had a very good German bakery/coffee shop! The traditional Brazilian buffet where you pay per kg for the amount you put on your plate was offered at another bar although German was spoken there too.
Where am I again?
28 - 30 June
Security and theft was an obvious concern, most buildings and homes had walls usually topped with electric fencing, so we were being cautious with our freecamping. However when heading for a campsite campsite near Curituba we turned off a congested four laned highway to get to the campgrounds on backroads. Big mistake. The road transited deserted industrial areas, then quickly narrowed to a gravel track in bush on the outskirts of the city. We passed some cattle yards and then in the dark came up on a timber slab bridge over a narrow but deep stream. No way to drive through or over. By now we're thinking this is everything we're not supposed to do but a short distance further down the track we found a vacant lot that looked promising. The few neighbouring houses were clustered in small walled compounds with the usual guard dogs but after a short friendly discussion with the local home renovater, him in Portuguese, us in English, we settled in for a quiet night under the stars.
Security and theft was an obvious concern, most buildings and homes had walls usually topped with electric fencing, so we were being cautious with our freecamping. However when heading for a campsite campsite near Curituba we turned off a congested four laned highway to get to the campgrounds on backroads. Big mistake. The road transited deserted industrial areas, then quickly narrowed to a gravel track in bush on the outskirts of the city. We passed some cattle yards and then in the dark came up on a timber slab bridge over a narrow but deep stream. No way to drive through or over. By now we're thinking this is everything we're not supposed to do but a short distance further down the track we found a vacant lot that looked promising. The few neighbouring houses were clustered in small walled compounds with the usual guard dogs but after a short friendly discussion with the local home renovater, him in Portuguese, us in English, we settled in for a quiet night under the stars.
The following days were less eventful as we parked at various truck stops along the way. These were usually good venues, always with free wifi, cold beer and sometimes a parilla with beef, chicken and chorizo roasting over hot coals. The best places were the older stations with curious and friendly staff and patrons, at first trying not stare at the two old gringos then disbelieving when they realised we couldn't speak Portuguese and rushing off to find someone who could translate. The trucks were surprisingly quiet leaving in the morning.
We have found the truck drivers to be courteous on the road, usually staying in the right lane but passing carefully when required. Signs on the back of the trailers indicate how long they are which is very handy. So far the South Americans have been patient drivers not in a big hurry maybe because there are speed bumps everywhere even on dirt roads and the highway and often placed at dangerous curves, near bus stops and in front of school areas. Then there are the merge into a single lane and slow down to 30kmph speed zones in front of police check points even though half of the check points aren't manned.
Crossing a huge hydro dam on the Parana River we entered the state of Mato Groso Sul with its rolling plains covered in farms growing corn or running brahman cattle.
We have found the truck drivers to be courteous on the road, usually staying in the right lane but passing carefully when required. Signs on the back of the trailers indicate how long they are which is very handy. So far the South Americans have been patient drivers not in a big hurry maybe because there are speed bumps everywhere even on dirt roads and the highway and often placed at dangerous curves, near bus stops and in front of school areas. Then there are the merge into a single lane and slow down to 30kmph speed zones in front of police check points even though half of the check points aren't manned.
Crossing a huge hydro dam on the Parana River we entered the state of Mato Groso Sul with its rolling plains covered in farms growing corn or running brahman cattle.
1, 2 July The Panatanal
At last the Patanal and some time to enjoy the animals and birds. The Pantanal is a wetland expanse of roughly 200,000 sq km, more than twice the size of Tasmania There is some farming around the periphery and few roads, boat travel is common.
A red dirt road with timber bridges and bush crowding in on either side led to our first camp site, but only after stopping to see several toco toucans fly by with their huge orange bills. The shady park-like setting with tall trees and only a couple of other local campers was very pleasant. Great start. Later the owner's son came down for a talk and to show us two red and green macaws feeding nearby. We were able to approach quite close but no time for photos before they flew off. Birds were plentiful but hard to spot in the trees although we could hear them calling.
Early morning mist on the waterway where we saw briefly saw the giant otter.
In the early morning we went for a wander along the misty waterway and chanced on a giant otter but no birds or jaguars. Late afternoon it was time to head to the swimming hole but we spent most of the time watching a troop of hooded capuchin monkeys gorging on corn left for them by the camp owners. They were fun to watch as they kept trying to grasp more and more corn even though their hands were full.
3, 4 July
Continuing our drive west, we passed through Bonito on our way to Gruta do Lago Azul. The grotto has fragile calcareous structures and a very pure pool in which bones from the giant sloth and sabre-toothed tiger have been found. Our tour was only in Portuguese but we were fortunate to have Mara, a Brazilian english teacher formerly an interpreter in our group.
On our return to Bonito we observed seriemas, peach fronted parrots and a little yellow bird amongst the corn. But the highlight was spotting a very healthy looking giant anteater in a field next to the road.
What a find!
Continuing our drive west, we passed through Bonito on our way to Gruta do Lago Azul. The grotto has fragile calcareous structures and a very pure pool in which bones from the giant sloth and sabre-toothed tiger have been found. Our tour was only in Portuguese but we were fortunate to have Mara, a Brazilian english teacher formerly an interpreter in our group.
On our return to Bonito we observed seriemas, peach fronted parrots and a little yellow bird amongst the corn. But the highlight was spotting a very healthy looking giant anteater in a field next to the road.
What a find!
5, 6 July
From Bonito we drove to Passo do Lontra Hotel on the Estrada Parque which is a dirt road through the Pantanal to Corumba, near the Bolivian border. The campground was basic but in a great setting next to a lagoon and with over a kilometre of boardwalks through the wetlands. Mammals were difficult to find except for the capybara and two troops of the Black and Golden howler monkey. The birds more than made up for it, we saw so many right at our door. The hotel and cabins are built on stilts over the water with caiman and piranha in abundance. Guy hit the shallow water with the end of his fishing rod and the piranha jumped on.
From Bonito we drove to Passo do Lontra Hotel on the Estrada Parque which is a dirt road through the Pantanal to Corumba, near the Bolivian border. The campground was basic but in a great setting next to a lagoon and with over a kilometre of boardwalks through the wetlands. Mammals were difficult to find except for the capybara and two troops of the Black and Golden howler monkey. The birds more than made up for it, we saw so many right at our door. The hotel and cabins are built on stilts over the water with caiman and piranha in abundance. Guy hit the shallow water with the end of his fishing rod and the piranha jumped on.
7 July
A broket, type of deer crossed the road in front of us but otherwise we saw mainly birds such as kingfishers and waterbirds when we were on the Estrada Parque. We didn't have time to drive right around to the Bolivian border but enjoyed what we saw before retracing our steps and heading to Fazenda San Francisco for our last night in the Pantanal until next year.
A broket, type of deer crossed the road in front of us but otherwise we saw mainly birds such as kingfishers and waterbirds when we were on the Estrada Parque. We didn't have time to drive right around to the Bolivian border but enjoyed what we saw before retracing our steps and heading to Fazenda San Francisco for our last night in the Pantanal until next year.
8, 9 July
Driving days as we head down towards Iguazu Falls. But there was a short stop on the outskirts of Bonito to check out a cattle lassoing competition between the fazendas.
Locals seemed to be enjoying themselves and the hats they were wearing were similar to what one would see in outback Australia, in fact the whole scene could have been staged in western QLD. Back to the road and endless cultivated fields and trucks.
Driving days as we head down towards Iguazu Falls. But there was a short stop on the outskirts of Bonito to check out a cattle lassoing competition between the fazendas.
Locals seemed to be enjoying themselves and the hats they were wearing were similar to what one would see in outback Australia, in fact the whole scene could have been staged in western QLD. Back to the road and endless cultivated fields and trucks.
10, 11, 12 July Iguazu Falls from the Brazilian side
We visited Iguazu Falls 30 years ago on another overland trip (before kids) but the place is spectacular and we were keen to see them again. We'll post some before and after photos at a later stage - the falls looked much the same, we've aged a little!
Cheryl enjoyed an AS350 helicopter ride over the Falls in superb weather with wonderful panoramas . The mist rising from the falls was visible soon after becoming airborne even though they were about 12 kilometres away. The whole flight only lasted 10 minutes, consisting of two circuits and return. After the flight we moved on to our campsite only a few kilometres from the Falls entrance hoping the good weather would last for tomorrow when we planned our visit. A little unfortunately we were in 'holiday mode' and took our time getting to the falls entrance to coincide with the holiday tourist rush so spent the day shuffling along various paths with thousands of others.
We visited Iguazu Falls 30 years ago on another overland trip (before kids) but the place is spectacular and we were keen to see them again. We'll post some before and after photos at a later stage - the falls looked much the same, we've aged a little!
Cheryl enjoyed an AS350 helicopter ride over the Falls in superb weather with wonderful panoramas . The mist rising from the falls was visible soon after becoming airborne even though they were about 12 kilometres away. The whole flight only lasted 10 minutes, consisting of two circuits and return. After the flight we moved on to our campsite only a few kilometres from the Falls entrance hoping the good weather would last for tomorrow when we planned our visit. A little unfortunately we were in 'holiday mode' and took our time getting to the falls entrance to coincide with the holiday tourist rush so spent the day shuffling along various paths with thousands of others.
Most of the falls are actually on the Argentine side so Cheryl thought we would see the best views from this, the Brazilian side, however our later visit to view the falls from Argentina was excellent as well.
13 July Itaipu Dam
The Special Circuit is the tour we took through the massive Itaipu Dam. The Itaipu is a joint venture hydroelectric dam on the Parana River between Brazil and Paraguay. The Dam produced a world record amount of power in 2016 and has surpassed that of the Three Gorges Dam in the last couple of years.
Of the twenty generator units currently installed, ten generate at 50 Hz for Paraguay and ten generate at 60 Hz for Brazil. Since the output capacity of the Paraguayan generators far exceeds the load in Paraguay, most of their production is exported directly to the Brazilian side.
The Special Circuit is the tour we took through the massive Itaipu Dam. The Itaipu is a joint venture hydroelectric dam on the Parana River between Brazil and Paraguay. The Dam produced a world record amount of power in 2016 and has surpassed that of the Three Gorges Dam in the last couple of years.
Of the twenty generator units currently installed, ten generate at 50 Hz for Paraguay and ten generate at 60 Hz for Brazil. Since the output capacity of the Paraguayan generators far exceeds the load in Paraguay, most of their production is exported directly to the Brazilian side.
Our neighbours at the Iguazu Falls campsite were Belgian family with two young children travelling South America for 2 years in their self bult Unimog.
14 July
Early start from our free camp at the dam as the traffic noise of the 6.30 am shift past our camp got us going. The drive back through Foz de Iguazu was quick as was the customs exiting Brazil but there was a long queue moving slowly through Argentine Customs.
14 July
Early start from our free camp at the dam as the traffic noise of the 6.30 am shift past our camp got us going. The drive back through Foz de Iguazu was quick as was the customs exiting Brazil but there was a long queue moving slowly through Argentine Customs.