Turkey
7 June 2016
Afternoon crossing of the border and then around Edirne and south towards Gallipoli. We pulled off the road and drove down a path between crop fields. We saw the farmer fitting some irrigation and he welcomed us to stay on his cleared field.
Afternoon crossing of the border and then around Edirne and south towards Gallipoli. We pulled off the road and drove down a path between crop fields. We saw the farmer fitting some irrigation and he welcomed us to stay on his cleared field.
8 June Gallipoli Peninsula
Looking across the Dardenelles at Gallipoli (Gelibolu) on our way south to Anzac Cove.
Looking across the Dardenelles at Gallipoli (Gelibolu) on our way south to Anzac Cove.
We visited the Information Centre with its displays and commentary about events leading up to the Dardanelles campaign and the bloodshed on the Gallipoli Peninsula. Both the Turkish and Allied stories were presented impartially.
We walked among the graves of the Beach Cemetery then around the Anzac Cove Commemorative Site with the Sphinx landmark looming behind. A loop of road took us up to Lone Pine, the Nek and some well presented Turkish and New Zealand memorials and cemeteries; the area is scattered with war cemeteries many of which were started during the campaign.
Camp for the night was on the beach north of Anzac landing.
We walked among the graves of the Beach Cemetery then around the Anzac Cove Commemorative Site with the Sphinx landmark looming behind. A loop of road took us up to Lone Pine, the Nek and some well presented Turkish and New Zealand memorials and cemeteries; the area is scattered with war cemeteries many of which were started during the campaign.
Camp for the night was on the beach north of Anzac landing.
9 June
We caught the ferry across the Dardanelles from Eceabat to Canakkale and drove south to Tevfikiye where the ruins of Troy are.
We caught the ferry across the Dardanelles from Eceabat to Canakkale and drove south to Tevfikiye where the ruins of Troy are.
10 June
Finally got moving to see the ruins at Troy. We were surprised to learn that there had been many settlements, starting from 3000BC to 500AD. There had not been a lot of reconstruction but information boards were quite helpful.
Finally got moving to see the ruins at Troy. We were surprised to learn that there had been many settlements, starting from 3000BC to 500AD. There had not been a lot of reconstruction but information boards were quite helpful.
Next highlight was Ephesus about 380 kms south. We skirted around the very busy port and large city of Izmir on the busy but good motorway. We had wondered if we would encounter any of the thousands of refugees flooding into Turkey and Greece from Syria and surrounds, and Izmir is one of the cities where they concentrate before looking for a boat to Greece, however there was a Travel Advisory warning against visiting Izmir and we had no interest in seeing the city and we saw nobody that resembled a refugee. Later in the trip in other cities we would see the occasional person on the roadside trying to make a few dollars selling cold drinks and such, some of the women had different dress ad scarves to the Turkish ladies and were possibly refugees but no sign of the mass movement of people that is reported on the nightly news.
That evening we stayed at a beachside campsite near Selcuk where we met the delightful Florian and Nina who were returning to Germany by bike after living in New Zealand for 4 years. Everyone we meet has an interesting story to tell.
That evening we stayed at a beachside campsite near Selcuk where we met the delightful Florian and Nina who were returning to Germany by bike after living in New Zealand for 4 years. Everyone we meet has an interesting story to tell.
Florian and Nina who we met at our camp near Ephesus.
11 June
We cycled to Selcuk and then back to Ephesus. The Great Theatre of Ephesus is partially visible from the road but it was even more impressive close up. To add even more impact a bride and groom were having their wedding photos taken there. This huge theatre once held up to 25,000 Romans. Imagine.
There was a lot to see including the Library of Celsus, Hercules Gate, Temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan, defined streets and many ruins of bath complexes, temples, houses and one of the most advanced aquaduct systems in the ancient world. A gladiators graveyard was found here in 2007 and excavation work continues.
We cycled to Selcuk and then back to Ephesus. The Great Theatre of Ephesus is partially visible from the road but it was even more impressive close up. To add even more impact a bride and groom were having their wedding photos taken there. This huge theatre once held up to 25,000 Romans. Imagine.
There was a lot to see including the Library of Celsus, Hercules Gate, Temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan, defined streets and many ruins of bath complexes, temples, houses and one of the most advanced aquaduct systems in the ancient world. A gladiators graveyard was found here in 2007 and excavation work continues.
The Great Theatre which seated up to 25,000 people.
The area around Ephesus had been inhabited since the neolithic period, 6000BC, but it flourished under Roman rule, starting with Augustus who came to power in 27 BC. The Roman period is where many of the ruins that we saw were from. The city was destroyed by the Goths in 263 AD which marked the decline of the citys splendour. Ephesus continued to be inhabited and was even partially rebuilt but there was an earthquake in 614 AD and the importance of the city as a commercial centre declined as the harbour was slowly silted up by the river.
12 June Pamukkale
After a very enjoyable two nights at Selcuk we made a morning stop at the fresh food markets to stock up, enjoyed some fried sardines for morning tea, paid a short visit to the Camlik Railway Museum, then hit the road east to Pamukkale.
After a very enjoyable two nights at Selcuk we made a morning stop at the fresh food markets to stock up, enjoyed some fried sardines for morning tea, paid a short visit to the Camlik Railway Museum, then hit the road east to Pamukkale.
Trains at the Camlik Railway Museum, 10 kms from Selcuk.
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The Pamukkale (Cotton Palace) hot pools and travertine features have been popular for thousands of years. Deriving from springs in a 200m cliff overlooking the plain, calcite-laden waters have created an unreal landscape, made up of 'petrified' waterfalls and a series of terraced basins. At the end of the 2nd century B.C. the Greco-Roman thermal spa city of Hierapolis was established. The ruins of the baths, temples and other Greek monuments can be seen at the site above Pamukkale.
Hierapolis sits above the natural feature of Pamakkale.
13 June
We drove across plains with extensive farming and then into the mountains crossing a few passes around 2200m before descending into Lake Beysehir National Park. The towns and roads look much poorer than further west. We searched down a narrow track for a campsite on the lake, surprising a farmer at the lake shore who gave us permission to camp, though we don't think it was actually his land. Beautiful campsite beside the lake.
We drove across plains with extensive farming and then into the mountains crossing a few passes around 2200m before descending into Lake Beysehir National Park. The towns and roads look much poorer than further west. We searched down a narrow track for a campsite on the lake, surprising a farmer at the lake shore who gave us permission to camp, though we don't think it was actually his land. Beautiful campsite beside the lake.
The mosque/shrine houses the tombs of former dervishes including Rumi.
14 June Konya
Another day of driving further east towards Cappadocia. We stopped for lunch at Konya which is the home of the whirling dervish orders and their Mevlana Museum. The museum gave helpful information on the whirling dervish order and its history.
Whirling is a form of physically active meditation which originated among Sufis and is still practiced by the Sufi Dervishes of the Mevlevi order. It is performed within the worship ceremony, sema.
The city was very quiet and surprisingly easy to drive through (Ed note: years of practice.) and cheap to park. After a few hours at the museum we headed towards the Ihlara Valley just ahead of a couple of busloads of Chinese tourists.
Another day of driving further east towards Cappadocia. We stopped for lunch at Konya which is the home of the whirling dervish orders and their Mevlana Museum. The museum gave helpful information on the whirling dervish order and its history.
Whirling is a form of physically active meditation which originated among Sufis and is still practiced by the Sufi Dervishes of the Mevlevi order. It is performed within the worship ceremony, sema.
The city was very quiet and surprisingly easy to drive through (Ed note: years of practice.) and cheap to park. After a few hours at the museum we headed towards the Ihlara Valley just ahead of a couple of busloads of Chinese tourists.
Turban topped tombs of eminent dervishes inside the shrine/mosque.
15, 16, 17 June Ihlara and Goreme
On our way to the Ihlara Valley we stopped at a local market with a spectacular backdrop of the Selime Monastery. Incredible view from the top of the monastery with some interesting rooms, chapels, cathedral and a church carved in the rocks.
Ihlara Valley and the Goreme region were formed by volcanic eruptions during the 3rd Geological Era. The Ihlara Valley is a 16 km long gorge with a reliable water supply and many caves so Christians fled here to escape persecution by the Romans. There are 105 churches and nearly 10,000 homes carved into the rock. Ilhara became an important monastic centre being used as a hermitage by priests and monks from the 4th century. When Muslim Turks came to power the Christians were free to practice their religion.
On our way to the Ihlara Valley we stopped at a local market with a spectacular backdrop of the Selime Monastery. Incredible view from the top of the monastery with some interesting rooms, chapels, cathedral and a church carved in the rocks.
Ihlara Valley and the Goreme region were formed by volcanic eruptions during the 3rd Geological Era. The Ihlara Valley is a 16 km long gorge with a reliable water supply and many caves so Christians fled here to escape persecution by the Romans. There are 105 churches and nearly 10,000 homes carved into the rock. Ilhara became an important monastic centre being used as a hermitage by priests and monks from the 4th century. When Muslim Turks came to power the Christians were free to practice their religion.
We enjoyed a long hot walk through the countryside around Goreme, where there are many caves being used by farmers, and also tried a turkish bath which includes a bubble massage, and skin scour while lying on a marble benchtop. Cheryl had a culture night with a visit to the whirling dervishes. The highlight was a dawn balloon flight with over 100 other balloons aloft at the same time as us. For our last night we free camped on one of the ridges east of town so we could rise before dawn to watch that morning's balloons float down into the valleys below us and then fire up to gently lift above. Fantastic start to the day.
18 June
Travelling east, over the highest pass in Turkey amidst bare hills, we drove on to more productive plains although we were still quite high. Dinner at a truck stop and then we turned off the main road to camp near a stream.
Travelling east, over the highest pass in Turkey amidst bare hills, we drove on to more productive plains although we were still quite high. Dinner at a truck stop and then we turned off the main road to camp near a stream.
19 June Ani
We were over 5000’ all day as we drove through more productive plains with some rugged mountainous areas; good roads most of the time. We wanted to travel SE to see Ishak Pasha Palace near the Iranian border then back north via the scenic road running along the Armenian border but we needed to do some research and spent some time on-line at our lunch stop restaurant.
We thought we were well north of the Kurdish areas and Syrian border where there has been armed conflict but were surprised to read of numerous PKK bombings and murders in the area we were heading to - these attacks aren't aimed at foreigners but there had been several attacks on road traffic. Surprised to read that Armenia was apparently concerned Turkey may invade and had requested Russian support in the form of 7000 troops stationed along the border. At the same time Turkey and Azerbaijan were holding a combined military exercise at Kars province.
So, we decided not to drive the scenic border road and headed straight to Kars wondering if we would be able to get to Ani which sits right on the Armenian border. At Kars there was no sign of a military uniform of any flavour but we stopped at the Police station to check if Ani ruins and the border were safe to visit. We had difficulty communicating of course though the Police were enthusiatic and helpful. Eventually a young policeman brought up Google translate and offered to show us the quickest road. Obviously no problem with tourists going to Ani; we said we would be fine. It was only about 45 kms away.
We were over 5000’ all day as we drove through more productive plains with some rugged mountainous areas; good roads most of the time. We wanted to travel SE to see Ishak Pasha Palace near the Iranian border then back north via the scenic road running along the Armenian border but we needed to do some research and spent some time on-line at our lunch stop restaurant.
We thought we were well north of the Kurdish areas and Syrian border where there has been armed conflict but were surprised to read of numerous PKK bombings and murders in the area we were heading to - these attacks aren't aimed at foreigners but there had been several attacks on road traffic. Surprised to read that Armenia was apparently concerned Turkey may invade and had requested Russian support in the form of 7000 troops stationed along the border. At the same time Turkey and Azerbaijan were holding a combined military exercise at Kars province.
So, we decided not to drive the scenic border road and headed straight to Kars wondering if we would be able to get to Ani which sits right on the Armenian border. At Kars there was no sign of a military uniform of any flavour but we stopped at the Police station to check if Ani ruins and the border were safe to visit. We had difficulty communicating of course though the Police were enthusiatic and helpful. Eventually a young policeman brought up Google translate and offered to show us the quickest road. Obviously no problem with tourists going to Ani; we said we would be fine. It was only about 45 kms away.
The area became poorer as we drove east. As we entered Ani village we met two men from Bath driving a Toyota Corolla to Ulaan Bataar and back in 2 months. Hope they make it.
Part of the remaining wall around Ani.
20 June
Early start to see the 1000 year old ruins of Ani which was an important crossroads centre on the silk road before being sacked by the Mongols in 1236, then damaged by an earthquake in 1319. According to UNESCO, Ani is one of the most impressive settlements of the Medieval Period. As well as the remains of a stone bridge across the river gorge (to Armenia) ruins included a cathedral, 3 churches, a mosque and a castle with smaller remnants of a Zoroastrian temple and houses spread over a large area all covered in blooming widflowers. A few cattle and their herders were also wandering about to add a modern touch.
We spent about 3 hours amongst these interesting ruins seeing only one other tourist, although the area is largely unrestored it had a wonderful aspect and feel to the place.
Early start to see the 1000 year old ruins of Ani which was an important crossroads centre on the silk road before being sacked by the Mongols in 1236, then damaged by an earthquake in 1319. According to UNESCO, Ani is one of the most impressive settlements of the Medieval Period. As well as the remains of a stone bridge across the river gorge (to Armenia) ruins included a cathedral, 3 churches, a mosque and a castle with smaller remnants of a Zoroastrian temple and houses spread over a large area all covered in blooming widflowers. A few cattle and their herders were also wandering about to add a modern touch.
We spent about 3 hours amongst these interesting ruins seeing only one other tourist, although the area is largely unrestored it had a wonderful aspect and feel to the place.
We drove back to Kars and then headed north east around some lakes to Georgia.
