Bolivia
Our quarry bush camp.
Friday, 13 September
We crossed from Brazil to Bolivia at San Matias, a very small crossing.
The road into Bolivia runs very close and almost parallel to the Brazilian border for about the first 170kms, so many military check points manned by very young men. There were no problems. Although as one soldier walked back with Guy he asked if we had anything to drink and Guy responded with a yes we have water. Not sure if that was the answer he was after. It was hot.
Disappointingly some areas had been burnt out recently. We bush camped along the road in an old quarry.
We crossed from Brazil to Bolivia at San Matias, a very small crossing.
The road into Bolivia runs very close and almost parallel to the Brazilian border for about the first 170kms, so many military check points manned by very young men. There were no problems. Although as one soldier walked back with Guy he asked if we had anything to drink and Guy responded with a yes we have water. Not sure if that was the answer he was after. It was hot.
Disappointingly some areas had been burnt out recently. We bush camped along the road in an old quarry.
These military checkpoints were polite. The staff were often very young soldiers.
A boom gate or rope is pulled across the road to make us stop. The locals on their motorbikes go around.
14 - 16 September
As we drove further west we saw more large scale farming and evidence of Mennonite settlements. Fires were further away.
The military checkpoints became police checkpoints, requesting a toll payment of higher than should be requested. Unfortunately we didn't have many bolivianos and they took less.
Further on, the legitimate toll was paid once per region then the ticket just needed to be shown for other toll stops.
As we drove further west we saw more large scale farming and evidence of Mennonite settlements. Fires were further away.
The military checkpoints became police checkpoints, requesting a toll payment of higher than should be requested. Unfortunately we didn't have many bolivianos and they took less.
Further on, the legitimate toll was paid once per region then the ticket just needed to be shown for other toll stops.
We continued on to San Ignacio de Velasco where we saw our first church of the Jesuit Missions of Chiquitos. The Jesuits founded the Chiquitos missions in the late 17th to mid 18th century and unlike Jesuit missions in other South American countries these buildings were not destroyed by the Spanish when the Jesuits were expelled.
The churches and other buildings were beautifully restored from 1972 until 2003 by Hans Roth, a Swiss Jesuit. Six of the churches are now UNESCO World Heritage sites.
The churches and other buildings were beautifully restored from 1972 until 2003 by Hans Roth, a Swiss Jesuit. Six of the churches are now UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Guy was exhausted. And only 13,350 kms to Sydney according to the sign!
It was a full day of driving for the 203km trip from San Ignacio south to San Jose de Chiquitos via San Miguel and San Rafael. Maybe the road was once a good dirt road but years of no maintenance had left rock hard corrugations and a potholed surface sometimes like driving on cobblestones and a cursing Guy.
17 - 21 September Santa Cruz de la Sierra to Samaipata
After a couple of days to enjoy the swimming pool and relax in San Jose we drove on to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, with a couple of passengers, Josée and Joe. Their vehicle required work and was carried on a flatbed trailer to Santa Cruz, the largest city in Bolivia. Guy arranged for the replacement of a section of the exhaust pipe for our truck while Josée and I enjoyed a local coffee shop. The wonders of a modern city.
From Santa Cruz we did an excursion to Samaipata, a small town supporting tourism to the World Heritage Site of Fuerte de Samaipata, a fort a few kilometres up the road.
After a couple of days to enjoy the swimming pool and relax in San Jose we drove on to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, with a couple of passengers, Josée and Joe. Their vehicle required work and was carried on a flatbed trailer to Santa Cruz, the largest city in Bolivia. Guy arranged for the replacement of a section of the exhaust pipe for our truck while Josée and I enjoyed a local coffee shop. The wonders of a modern city.
From Santa Cruz we did an excursion to Samaipata, a small town supporting tourism to the World Heritage Site of Fuerte de Samaipata, a fort a few kilometres up the road.
It is not actually a military fortification, but is generally considered a pre-Columbian religious and residential site, built by the Chané people (300CE). They began shaping the great rock that is the ceremonial center of the Samaipata ruin. In the late 15th century the Chané submitted to the Incas with Samaipata becoming one of the most isolataed and easternmost areas of the Inca Empire. Both Incas and Chanés suffered several raids from Guarani warriors who invaded the region from time to time. Eventually, the Guarani warriors conquered the plains and valleys of Santa Cruz and destroyed Samaipata. The Guaranis dominated the region well into the Spanish colonial period which started in 1615. The Spaniards also built a settlement near the temple, but abandoned the settlement and moved to the nearby valley, where the town of Samaipata is currently located.
The archeological site at El Fuerte is unique, and it encompasses buildings of three different cultures: Chanés, Incas, and Spaniards.
The archeological site at El Fuerte is unique, and it encompasses buildings of three different cultures: Chanés, Incas, and Spaniards.
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22 - 26 September To Torotoro
We started to climb the Andes through more lush surrounds. But roadworks went on and on as we climbed through an area where a large hydro project is under construction. Finally arrived in Cochabamba where we spent a night before turning south for Torotoro National Park known for its canyons and dinosaur footprints. An interesting stop south of Cochabamba at the small town of Tarata, the home of two previous presidents and then onto some terrible roads. A new road is being built with roadworks along the full 100 kms of the route south of Tarata. We drove the old cobbled road in parts, dirt road, criss crossed the old cobbled road and followed the dry creekbed with a small enjoyable kilometre or two of smooth new road. Our average speed for the journey was just under 20 kms/hr. The further south we went the more interesting the scenery became until we arrived above the picturesque town of Torotoro. |
Last of the lush tropical countryside for a while.
Never ending roadworks begin around the new hydro power works.
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The dinosaurs of Torotoro.
hAfter looking at the dinosaur footprints from sauropods, theropods, ankylosaurs and ornithopods we commenced an 8 km hike to Cascada el Vergel, a waterfall in the canyon. This meant 800 steps down to the floor of the canyon, clambouring over rocks and around a stream for a few hundred metres to a very lush waterfall and the intersection with another canyon. And then a tiring return up the canyon. The general height of the area is between 8500' - 9000'. So we found it tough going especially after days sitting in the truck.
 Housing on the outskirts of Cochabamba.
27 - 28 September
On Saturday morning we returned to Cochabamba when many people are at a market, so it was quite busy. Further west a regional market was at Leque Palca. |
Our camp on the way to La Paz.
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Something is happening at the airport.
Market scenes from Caracollo on Sunday morning.
Approaching La Paz snow-capped peaks come into view.
29 September - 2 October La Paz
Snow-capped peaks meant La Paz wasn't far. As the city is known for its horrendous traffic in the steep streets, we had chosen to stay at a campsite out of town. It was only 45 minutes by taxi and the highest public transport in world, the teleférico to the city.
Our camp was also about 1600'/500m lower than La Paz (11800'/3600m) which itself is surrounded by mountains.
Snow-capped peaks meant La Paz wasn't far. As the city is known for its horrendous traffic in the steep streets, we had chosen to stay at a campsite out of town. It was only 45 minutes by taxi and the highest public transport in world, the teleférico to the city.
Our camp was also about 1600'/500m lower than La Paz (11800'/3600m) which itself is surrounded by mountains.
We did a walking tour up and down the steep slopes of La Paz covering the San Pedro Prison, markets including the witches market and Murillo Square which the Presidential Palace, National Congress of Bolivia and the Cathedral of La Paz face on to.
And then for a bit of fun we went to the colourful cholita wrestling, complete with a crooked umpire and all the theatrics although the contestants were very athletic.
El Alto traffic.
3 October
The traffic through El Alto was almost exclusively minibuses with many passengers alighting and walking to their destinations, it was so slow. However the outskirts of the place were like a ghost town.
The border crossing into Peru was only an hour or so away.
The traffic through El Alto was almost exclusively minibuses with many passengers alighting and walking to their destinations, it was so slow. However the outskirts of the place were like a ghost town.
The border crossing into Peru was only an hour or so away.
