Costa Rica
Artifacts in the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum. These may have been sacred objects used by the sharmans in rituals.
6, 7 May 2017
Costa Rica and Panama presently don't allow access to right hand drive vehicles like the Bee. So a good reason to come here now and also enjoy some warm weather. We arrived in San Jose in the evening and spent the next day walking through the town.
Costa Rica and Panama presently don't allow access to right hand drive vehicles like the Bee. So a good reason to come here now and also enjoy some warm weather. We arrived in San Jose in the evening and spent the next day walking through the town.
Mostly Nicaraguan and Guatamalan migrant workers are used to pick the coffee beans.
8, 9 May
Last minute phone calls secured us a 4x4 for 2 weeks and after lunch we headed north into the afternoon rainshowers. We dropped in to the Doka Estate coffee plantation where the wet mill process of grading coffe beans was explained to us the best beans are kept for local consumption. Asked how they get decaf coffee, the guide explained that they ship the coffee to a factory in Germany which extracts the caffeine without using chemicals and at no cost, then ships the decaf coffee back to Costa Rica. The factory in Germany sells the caffeine to Coca Cola and other drink companies.
The Poas Volcano was our next desination but due to volcanic activity the road up the moutain was closed, instead we travelled on to the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. La Paz is an informal wildlife park and nature reserve. I baulked at the US$42 (AU$55) per person entry fee and was ready to walk away when we was offered a discounted entry for a US$32 (pensioner rates at last).
The area is beautifully landscaped and the animals and birds have not been taken from the wild, more like rangers have taken them from people who have collected them illegally. Nectar feeders are used to attract hummingbirds and others out of the gardens and surrounding forest. There are also snakes, frogs, butterfly houses, an orchid house, a trout lake and of course, the waterfall. Beautiful.
Last minute phone calls secured us a 4x4 for 2 weeks and after lunch we headed north into the afternoon rainshowers. We dropped in to the Doka Estate coffee plantation where the wet mill process of grading coffe beans was explained to us the best beans are kept for local consumption. Asked how they get decaf coffee, the guide explained that they ship the coffee to a factory in Germany which extracts the caffeine without using chemicals and at no cost, then ships the decaf coffee back to Costa Rica. The factory in Germany sells the caffeine to Coca Cola and other drink companies.
The Poas Volcano was our next desination but due to volcanic activity the road up the moutain was closed, instead we travelled on to the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. La Paz is an informal wildlife park and nature reserve. I baulked at the US$42 (AU$55) per person entry fee and was ready to walk away when we was offered a discounted entry for a US$32 (pensioner rates at last).
The area is beautifully landscaped and the animals and birds have not been taken from the wild, more like rangers have taken them from people who have collected them illegally. Nectar feeders are used to attract hummingbirds and others out of the gardens and surrounding forest. There are also snakes, frogs, butterfly houses, an orchid house, a trout lake and of course, the waterfall. Beautiful.
Red eyed tree frog
10, 11 May
We had two nights at the Arenal Observatory Lodge which was originally built in 1987 as a Smithsonian Institute scientific research station. It is less than 3 kms from the volcano that erupted violently in 1968 after more than 300 years of dormancy. In 2010 it was considered to be in a dormant phase.
On our first night, in pouring rain, we walked a short distance into the rainforest to a pond but it was well worth it. The surrounding palms held mating red eyed tree frogs, hourglass frogs, masked frogs, glass frog and two red and black banded snakes looking for a feed.
We had two nights at the Arenal Observatory Lodge which was originally built in 1987 as a Smithsonian Institute scientific research station. It is less than 3 kms from the volcano that erupted violently in 1968 after more than 300 years of dormancy. In 2010 it was considered to be in a dormant phase.
On our first night, in pouring rain, we walked a short distance into the rainforest to a pond but it was well worth it. The surrounding palms held mating red eyed tree frogs, hourglass frogs, masked frogs, glass frog and two red and black banded snakes looking for a feed.
The following morning we crossed the suspension bridge (no more than 5 at a time) and started our two hour guided walk through the surrounding forest. Finally we had views of Arenal Volcano as the cloud lifted.
Arenal Volcano from the lodge.
Not called a cloud forest for nothing.
|
12, 13 May
Next highlight was Monteverde and the cloud forests. We had to take a 3 hr diversion around Lake Arenal as the dirt road we started down was cut by a stream swollen from the night's rain. But it was a pleasant drive with interesting scenery and the occasional stops for bird spottiing....and a German bakery. The roads beyond Tilaran became dirt which gradually deteriorated until we hit the cloud with visibility down to 5 metres. Then there was the rain. |
Our accommodation in Santa Elena near Monteverde.
Next morning at breakfast we were invited by two American couples to join them in a guided walk of the cloud forest with an excellent guide, Jorge. Jorge has lived his whole life in the area and seen many changes.
In the 1950s, Quakers and pacifists from the US looking to avoid call up for the Korean War moved to non-violent, army-free Costa Rica. They chose to move to Monteverde for its cool climate, which would facilitate dairy farming. They eventually set land aside for conservation and now with ecotourism native forest is more valuable than the cleared farming land.
In the 1950s, Quakers and pacifists from the US looking to avoid call up for the Korean War moved to non-violent, army-free Costa Rica. They chose to move to Monteverde for its cool climate, which would facilitate dairy farming. They eventually set land aside for conservation and now with ecotourism native forest is more valuable than the cleared farming land.
We checked out a sleeping sloth in a tree in the downtown area but it was just a wet furball with a couple of claws. In the forest we could hear a few howler monkeys and eventually saw them and numerous birds. Jorges extensive knowledge life in the forest and the many symbiotic relationships between plants and insects/animals was very interesting, along with his catalogue of animal and bird calls.
And then there were the orchids. Costa Rica is home to many miniature orchids.
That evening we joined a guided night walk with a Spanish family. Highlights were a couple of yellow sided green vipers, one high up in the trees and the other in a strike position at ground level; mushroom stalks that were glowing with bioluminescence after recent rain; a large red-kneed tarantula, olingo which are like a cross between a cat and a possum, and kinkajou which are similar but larger with a prehensile tail. The two excited children in our group had a great time shining their torches, one in each hand, all over the place including in our faces!
Rough dirt roads
14 May Sunday
It was a slow drive down the mountain along the rocky and muddy roads towards the west. We crossed the Panamerican highway and headed to Playa Grande which is a popular surfing beach then south along the hot and humid coast to Tamarindo. Walking back from dinner that night we were pleased to see an olingo scouting around the dirt road looking for scraps - no guide needed.
It was a slow drive down the mountain along the rocky and muddy roads towards the west. We crossed the Panamerican highway and headed to Playa Grande which is a popular surfing beach then south along the hot and humid coast to Tamarindo. Walking back from dinner that night we were pleased to see an olingo scouting around the dirt road looking for scraps - no guide needed.
15, 16 May
Continuing south the next stop was Tarcoles for lunch at a 'soda', a local cafe. The bowl of seafood soup was more seafood than soup and then we were treated to our first sighting of scarlet macaws screeching in the almond trees. Delightful.
Continuing south the next stop was Tarcoles for lunch at a 'soda', a local cafe. The bowl of seafood soup was more seafood than soup and then we were treated to our first sighting of scarlet macaws screeching in the almond trees. Delightful.
An iguana crossing
17, 18 May
We passed many touristy areas with expensive accommodation on our way south but it was eco accommodation at the remote Corcovado on the Osa peninsular for us. Hot and extremely humid on the day we arrived we headed off to bed for an early night - only solar power used for the dinner then its lights out. A massive storm in the early evening cooled things down. We were watching the storm approach and wondering how wet we'd get in our open hut but unlike home there was no wind, just torrential rain and thunder.
We passed many touristy areas with expensive accommodation on our way south but it was eco accommodation at the remote Corcovado on the Osa peninsular for us. Hot and extremely humid on the day we arrived we headed off to bed for an early night - only solar power used for the dinner then its lights out. A massive storm in the early evening cooled things down. We were watching the storm approach and wondering how wet we'd get in our open hut but unlike home there was no wind, just torrential rain and thunder.
Eco accommodation - no hot water (the weather was hot anyway), cold water suitable for drinking, a small fan at the end of the bed, a toilet and some lighting.
Next morning it was time for a good hike along the forest at the back of the beach where we found a troop of white faced capuchin monkeys feeding in banana trees, coati and birds but no pumas. As we walked back a group of military police armed with automatic weapons headed up the beach and into the forest. We had been warned not to walk inland up the stream as the gold panners living there were a rough lot - instead we met them fishing for dinner on the beach. They were friendly enough and pleased to show us their catch of red snapper. We had the impression they lived a very basic hermit like life.
Next day we climbed the steep slope at the rear of the lodge and hiked a long loop east along the ridge then back via the beach and a large lagoon. Trails of leafcutter ants were everywhere along with two green and black poison dart frogs which were probably eating the ants, hence collecting the poison that makes them toxic. The lagoon held some large American crocodiles and smaller caiman as well as birds.
We were a little surprised to see two young white girls walking the other way but soon came up on a basic school in a clearing. This was a small primary school with about 20 kids, some local teachers and several other young women obviously volunteering in very basic conditions. However a little further down the track we found an attractive new school built mostly of bamboo with support in part from Stanford University.
Next day we climbed the steep slope at the rear of the lodge and hiked a long loop east along the ridge then back via the beach and a large lagoon. Trails of leafcutter ants were everywhere along with two green and black poison dart frogs which were probably eating the ants, hence collecting the poison that makes them toxic. The lagoon held some large American crocodiles and smaller caiman as well as birds.
We were a little surprised to see two young white girls walking the other way but soon came up on a basic school in a clearing. This was a small primary school with about 20 kids, some local teachers and several other young women obviously volunteering in very basic conditions. However a little further down the track we found an attractive new school built mostly of bamboo with support in part from Stanford University.
Nightlife at Corcovado
Our company on the ferry croosing.
19 May
On a very early morning walk towards the goldpanners' shacks we watched the brown pelicans surf along the waves. Enjoyed our breakfast and started on the long drive towards Tortuguero at the other end of the country. Pleasant driving along the coast but when we turned inland it became colder as we climbed to almost 11,000 feet. Our accommodation was a cabin in the mountains from where the lights of San Jose were visible before the clouds set in.
On a very early morning walk towards the goldpanners' shacks we watched the brown pelicans surf along the waves. Enjoyed our breakfast and started on the long drive towards Tortuguero at the other end of the country. Pleasant driving along the coast but when we turned inland it became colder as we climbed to almost 11,000 feet. Our accommodation was a cabin in the mountains from where the lights of San Jose were visible before the clouds set in.
Sunset at Mirador de Quetzales.
20 - 22 May Tortuguero
There were some beautiful hummingbirds at the feeder the next morning. A shame we couldn't stay and possibly see the quetzalis in the nearby forest.
There were some beautiful hummingbirds at the feeder the next morning. A shame we couldn't stay and possibly see the quetzalis in the nearby forest.
There were four different types of hummingbird trying to take ownership of the feeder. Interesting to watch as birds were darting everywhere. Eventually they settled.
Due to roadworks it took several hours to get across to La Povona where we left the car in a secure carpark and caught the collectivo boat down Rio La Suerte. Great to travel down the river through the forest and spot green basilisk lizards sunning themselves oblivious to us zooming by.
Our accommodation was on the riverbank looking down the estary to the west. The Carribean was about 300m behind us. On our first afternoon we enjoyed an unusual sunset caused by a cloud mass on the horizon casting a massive shadow into the evening sky.
Our accommodation was on the riverbank looking down the estary to the west. The Carribean was about 300m behind us. On our first afternoon we enjoyed an unusual sunset caused by a cloud mass on the horizon casting a massive shadow into the evening sky.
Sunset at Tortuguero.
A relaxing Sunday including an early morning guided cruise in the electric boat down river into Tortuguero National Park. A clear morning and lots of animals and birds to spot including a two toed sloth which we managed to photograph amongst the tree.
23, 24 May
A very slow trip back to San Jose once due again to roadworks which kept us stopped for almost an hour. Tortuguero was a wonderful destination even though we did not see any leatherback turtles. Sadly there has only been one known arrival in the last 3 months.
One night in San Jose and a morning departure to Panama. We have really enjoyed our time in Costa Rica.
A very slow trip back to San Jose once due again to roadworks which kept us stopped for almost an hour. Tortuguero was a wonderful destination even though we did not see any leatherback turtles. Sadly there has only been one known arrival in the last 3 months.
One night in San Jose and a morning departure to Panama. We have really enjoyed our time in Costa Rica.
Juvenile basilisk lizard